My very own grapples!

[3RRL]

So pretty much, we got all the plumbing to the grapple cylinder completed. We tried out the fully raised and fully dumped positions to be sure there is enough length for all the hoses. We also got the rest of the hoses routed and fastened to the FEL arms in the manner we wanted. They are now connected to the electric over hydraulic solenoid valve. They are connected via QC's there, so if she ever takes the loader off they can disconnect right there. The valve stays on the tractor and the FEL and all those hoses go with it.
It all came out pretty clean for a do it yourself job at camp.

 

[3RRL]

The last thing we did before returning home was to wire up the solenoid valve to the Scorpion rocker switch. In these photos below, you can see how to wire the Hirschman connectors which are needed for the Vickers valve. Scorpion recommends adding a diode across the (+) and (-) terminals to protect the switch and make it last longer. You can see it where I have the screwdriver pointed. Make sure the band is on the (+) terminal. Then you can plug the Hirschman connectors to the top of the solenoids.



Make the other connections to ground and to positive as described in the instructions for both solenoid valve and handle switch. Unfortunately, I must not have it correct because I couldn't get it to work. We only had a couple minutes left so we will chase that down next visit up. It should all work if I got the electrical connections right.
I'll have to see when I take it apart again.

 

[mjncad]

Excellent workmanship!

 

[3RRL]

Still no luck with getting Loretta's solenoid valve to work.
I brought a volt meter up and checked out the Scorpion Rocker switch and the Hirshman connectors ... they are good and all the grounds are good. Also verified the hydraulic connections in the system and they are all correct. I unplugged the QC's at the solenoid valve and hooked up hoses to my Huge Kama. The grapple works great under Kama's power so I don't know WTF?
I even took a hot wire right from the (+) and another wire to ground right to the solenoid terminals while the tractor was running. That procedure took the switch and connectors out of play...still didn't work!

Before I worked on testing the solenoid valve, I set all the pressure relief valves, starting with the new main relief valve by unplugging the QC's to the FEL valve. (See posts starting at #130 in this thread My New Jinma).
It came factory set around 1350psi. I set it exactly at 16MPa or 2321psi. You could set that at the +.5MPa which would be 2393 but that is max. That Prince relief valve works very smooth and was steady ...responding well during the adjustment. It only took a little over a full turn ionwards (clockwise). Then I set all the other valves at 15.5MPa 2250psi. When I got to the rear remote valve, it was only 1000psi. I adjusted the pressure relief on it several times and never got it up much more than that. In fact, the gauge jumped around between 800 and 1200psi like it was throwing up. I think it's a faulty pressure relief or faulty valve or both. I was afraid to turn it in any more than I did. I need to get Jinma to send me another one.

I tried operating the CCM hydraulic top link with DPOCV with her rear remotes and it would barely move the rod out, but trying to suck it back, it didn't budge. I hooked it up to Huge Kama and it worked perfectly. So then I tried the remotes on the dump trailer and it did lift that up while empty. Remember when we used the dump trailer, it did lift it then but really strained to get the load up. It also didn't relieve when I tried to lower the dump trailer like how Scott said his did. It was screwed up then, I guess?
I wonder if that valve in the circuit could have anything to do with the solenoid grapple valve not responding? All the other hydraulics on her tractor work great, and that remote valve is the last one in line feeding the 3pt. the solenoid valve is 4th in line right after the old ZL-20 valve which now will power her hydraulic side links. The rear remote valve follows that one. But like I said, all the others work great.

Should I move the grapple solenoid valve up the line fed by power beyond from either the new FEL valve or the dump trailer Prince valve?
How do I go about checking if the solenoid valve is faulty or not (in detail) using a ohm or volt meter? I tried the direct circuit route already.
Any suggestions?

 

[MReeb]

Unfortunately 3RRL your coil will not work with your system. If you look on the 3rd picture you posted the valve coil is marked 110V50 and 120V60. The coil is rated at 120VAC 60Hz. If you connect it to a power cord and plug it into the wall I'd bet you'll hear the valve switching.
Vickers valves can usually be converted over to 24VDC or 12VDC by just switching the coil.

 

[kennyd]

Unfortunately 3RRL your coil will not work with your system. If you look on the 3rd picture you posted the valve coil is marked 110V50 and 120V60. The coil is rated at 120VAC 60Hz. If you connect it to a power cord and plug it into the wall I'd bet you'll hear the valve switching.
Vickers valves can usually be converted over to 24VDC or 12VDC by just switching the coil.

Good Eye!

 

[MReeb]

Forgot to mention that the grapple looks awesome. The factory built units don't look as sharp as yours. Did you use swivel 90s going from the arms of the loader to the bucket?
BTW, make sure you get 12VDC coils for your valve. (or run a really long extension cord, maybe a power inverter )

 

[3RRL]

Thanks for the compliments on the grapple project.
Yes, I have live swivels where needed.

Unfortunately 3RRL your coil will not work with your system. If you look on the 3rd picture you posted the valve coil is marked 110V50 and 120V60. The coil is rated at 120VAC 60Hz. If you connect it to a power cord and plug it into the wall I'd bet you'll hear the valve switching.
Vickers valves can usually be converted over to 24VDC or 12VDC by just switching the coil.

Good eye is right.
When I went to the property this week I tried all those things I posted above, but also noticed then (not before) that it said 110v50 and 120v60 on the ends thinking that might be a problem...just in case. I copied down everything that was on the valve they sent to me. I ordered the 12v model and the shipper shows it's a 12v too. But I wasn't sure if the valve was marked like that or not?

I just called Surplus Center to let them know all I tried to get it to work. Then gave them the ID information to them and also about the 110/120v on the valve. When he read me what the ID SHOULD be, it was different than on my valve! So now he's researching that out. I think they sent me the wrong valve in the right box. Heck, I'm only 108v short.



Another thing was the hydraulic cylinder I bought from them. One thing I didn't mention is when I had the first set of hose made up leading to her hydraulic cylinder, I got the ends which go into the cylinder made with 3/8NPT live swivels ... expensive.
The specs say it has 3/8NPT ports. Not only that, but I called their tech desk to confirm this and he said they were 3/8NPT. The reason is when I removed the plugs, they had "O" rings around the plug threads ... a #6 ORB. So I called to verify. Turns out the things ARE #6 ORB fittings after all. Dang, another 30 bucks a piece down the drain! I had to get new ones made since cutting them off would be too short now. I had them fit perfectly too! Crap!
Not only that, but the hydraulic store does not have an ORB live swivel elbow. so I had to get an elbow (ORB) to #6 JIC and then another JIC elbow on the hoses...more fittings! That made it awkward, but it works. I called them about it to let them know there specs were wrong and the guy then told me there were 2 sets of ports ... which I assumed were the same. The ones on the ends were 3/8NPT but the ones you would normally use are #6 ORB. I told them I wish they would have told me that in the first place.

 

[3RRL]

Well, I just got off the phone with Surplus Center and they are going to make everything right. They are sending out the correct valve and also a prepaid return sticker for the wrong valve.

The number I posted is for the correct 12VDC valve.
Item #9-6136 with ID#DG4V-3-8C-VM-U-G7-61.
The wrong valve I got is indeed for 115v as verified by their tech.
Item #9-7236 with ID#DG4V-3-0C-M-U-B6-60.

Hmmm, although I've wasted a lot of time fiddling with that valve and the hydraulics, at least I know what the REAL problem is now. I asked them to send it out 2nd day air so I can go up this weekend to install it.
Videos coming soon!

 

[tommu56]

Rob you could have run an extension cord to power it up and had the only solar grapple around!

Some times you can only change the coil to get it to work the black nut is holding the coil loosen it and coil should slide off, I'd try that and save changing some plumbing.

tom