My R4041

[JLow]

I want to say thanks to all of you who have posted and commented on your tractors. I have been trolling, reading, and researching CUT's for about 4 months now. Talked to Branson, Mahindra, and New Holland in person. Ended up with the LS. For a little background, we just sold our house with 6.5 flat acres and left a 1965 MF165(gas) and finsh mower. We traded up to a whopping 7 acres that is in town and has some hills! I have been wanting 4wd with a bucket for ever. Although the wife was not happy with the cost of the purchase, I am like a big kid in a candy store now. Still hunting for another finish mower to take care of the lawn. Takes 4 hours with a 42" rider. Here is a pic stopping to put a little diesel in it on the way home.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h387/Jlow81/IMG_20131004_164622_920.jpg

So far, I have started moving some dirt and repairing the road that goes up on the hill so can begin the collection of firewood for the winter. It has a 2' deep rut in it. I bought the shuttle and like it so far. I debated about the hydro, but got a good deal on this one. Big thanks to Cirrus Tractor here in TN. My two little ones(2 and 4 yrs) are in tractor heaven, all they want to do is go work outside with the tractor. I have read the manuals front to back and had some questions for everyone.

1. When you start your tractor, do you let it idle to warm up, or turn it up to halfway like the manual says. My thought was it is bad to rev up a cold engine. What is your process for starting the tractor when cold?

2. Do any of you guys use block heaters? If so, what kind, how much, where did you get it? Do you have any opinions on magnetic black heaters?

3. What do you run your tire pressure at? I have read and been told many different ways to set it.

4. Going to add ballast to the rear tires and to my box blade for the main purpose of stability, not more weight. Was thinking 25ish gals in ea. rear tire. What is your opinion on this?

More questions to follow in the near future. Thanks, JLow.

 

[ozley]

Welcome I run my 5030 around 1400 for a few min's to warm up. I don't think you need a block heater in Nashville really not that cold. I have never had a problem starting 50 miles south of you. Someone will come by with 4041 help with the tires.

 

[Guesseral]

Nice tractor I just love the smell of a new tractor! I have a question for you, how long is the trailer you have your tractor on? I am in the process of getting a new trailer and I was looking at an 18' one but I wasn't sure if I would be happy with anything less than 20'. I will try and find my chart for the gallons per tire.

 

[Guesseral]

Well I couldn't find my chart but here is one rim guard

Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast Dealer Information

They state that you don't need inner-tubes but I still believe in them, in-lieu of putting the liquid right against the metal rim. Why well I don't have a good reason just a feeling that liquid against steel is never a good thing, that and that rim guard is expensive and if you have an inner tube you don't loose as much if you get a hole in a tire as apposed to if you get a hole with a tub less tire it's all gone. Like I say it's just an opinion!

 

[JLow]

It is a 16' trailer. My friend is going to buy it and I am going to get an 18' dovetail trailer with brakes. You can fit the tractor with bucket on the 16' no problem. If you wanted to have a brush cutter on the back, you will want at least the 18', if not 20'. Unless you were going to remove the loader. Thanks for the replies so far. JLow.

 

[Guesseral]

Yea I was thinking the same thing about with a brush cutter and I thought you had a 16' there. My problem is that I need to stay with a 10k trailer because of Pa rules with trailers and when you go to 20' the weight goes up to 12k.

 

[JLow]

Can you do that with an 18' with 3500# axles? So PA says if the trailer is 20' it has to have heavier axles/GVWR?

 

[Guesseral]

No Pa says that if the trailer is rated over 10k then you have to have a combination license with the truck and trailer. Most people don't pay much attention to it but my luck would be the first day out I would get nailed! The trailer would have to be 10k to haul my tractor, the one I am looking at is #2400 empty so I would have a #7600 capacity. I just over annualize everything because I am ****!

 

[Bob77064]

Congrats on the new tractor, I bought my tractor from Cirrus.

 

[GManBart]

1. When you start your tractor, do you let it idle to warm up, or turn it up to halfway like the manual says. My thought was it is bad to rev up a cold engine. What is your process for starting the tractor when cold?

2. Do any of you guys use block heaters? If so, what kind, how much, where did you get it? Do you have any opinions on magnetic black heaters?

3. What do you run your tire pressure at? I have read and been told many different ways to set it.

4. Going to add ballast to the rear tires and to my box blade for the main purpose of stability, not more weight. Was thinking 25ish gals in ea. rear tire. What is your opinion on this?

I let my tractor idle for a minute or so minimum before I open the throttle at all. My cold start procedure is exactly the way the manual describes it. Mine had to live outside last winter, and it started down into the single digits with no block heater (although the machine is covered, which helps a little).

I have my tire pressure set so that when I have my heaviest implement (counterweight), the tires have full contact with the ground....not even sure what the pressure is at, other than that it's in the recommended range.

Loading the rear tires help keep them on the ground when you're using the loader, but it does nothing to take the load off the front axle, which is important. You're going to need a lot more than a box blade to even come close to maximize the loader. My counterweight is over 1,300lbs, and I can finally max the loader without raising the rear tires. I wouldn't run less than 1,000lbs on the 3pt if I was lifting heavy loads in the FEL....less than that, and you're stressing the front axles.