My new L3301

Fallon · Apr 9, 2014

TheWedge said:
Congratulations! I am looking at upgrading from my B3200 to an L3301. One quick question, where I live fire danger during the summer is always high which is why on my B3200 I installed a spark arrestor. With the new tier 4 engines and the ability to capture particulates that could contribute to a spark, are spark arrestors needed or included? No worries if you don't know -just a curiosity that I can eventually clear with the dealer.

Mike

The only substantial difference between the L3200 & L3301 is the tier 4 emissions stuff & possibly the fixing of the jerky hitch issue. There are trivial dashboard changes & the fuel filter is in a different place, but really no other changes.

Edit: Oops... Saw that was B3200 not L3200, never mind.

big bubba · Apr 9, 2014

"Questions for folks here:
- Do most people leave the front loader on at all times, even when not needing it for mowing or tilling etc?" opalko

hey nice rig, & bet you're excited with it's new potential. in regards to bucket fixed or removed while brush hogging....as mentioned, it does add ballast to counterbalance the weight of the mower...also, not sure if it applies, but it seems to me if you hit something with one of the ft. arms, there might be a likelihood of bending it compared to having a bucket (or anything else) mounted. just a thought.

opalko · Apr 12, 2014

Tried unhooking the loader today to mow?ried is key word! I didn't have the bucket tipped just right apparently as the bottom pin did not get raised up enough to clear the tires when backing away from the loader?ent back & forth several times to get it all lined up to connect..sure wasn't as easy as the Youtube videos!!! Ended up reconnecting and leaving it on to mow. Will try again another day. Maybe!

I can confirm this tractor does _not_ have a jerky 3 pt. hitch. Smooth as can be.

k0ua · Apr 12, 2014

opalko said:
Tried unhooking the loader today to mow?ried is key word! I didn't have the bucket tipped just right apparently as the bottom pin did not get raised up enough to clear the tires when backing away from the loader?ent back & forth several times to get it all lined up to connect..sure wasn't as easy as the Youtube videos!!! Ended up reconnecting and leaving it on to mow. Will try again another day. Maybe!

I can confirm this tractor does _not_ have a jerky 3 pt. hitch. Smooth as can be.

Start with your bucket dumped about halfway, as you set it down on the stands, and the bucket edge, then curl the bucket up to lift it out of the lower rests.

opalko · Apr 12, 2014

Thanks - will try that. I was getting a little nervous with it as I wasn't sure how I was going to get it off once it was nearly stuck on the tires.

Chilly807 · Apr 13, 2014

Mine does the same thing, might be the R1 tires being higher than R4.

Once the loader is sitting on the stands but still connected to the hydraulics, you can move the joystick to angle the rear posts ( same motion as raising the loader arms ) and the wheels will clear. The manual omits that part.. handy.

It will actually push the loader ahead or the tractor back.

Then just unhook and back out of it. The first time I removed mine I was skeptical of the manual, but it works like a charm!

When you drive back into it, go ahead until the angled posts just touch the mounts then hook up the hoses. Slowly drive ahead and maintain contact as you operate the joystick to return the rear posts to the vertical position.

It's worked for me, just takes a little practice.

The 524 loader mounts are a bit different from mine, look to see if this will work. Like most things I say, no guarantees!

Sean

Bluegill2 · Apr 13, 2014

Removing & re-installing the loader gets very easy very quick, but you have to do it a few times to see this.

k0ua · Apr 13, 2014

Chilly807 said:
Mine does the same thing, might be the R1 tires being higher than R4.

Once the loader is sitting on the stands but still connected to the hydraulics, you can move the joystick to angle the rear posts ( same motion as raising the loader arms ) and the wheels will clear. The manual omits that part.. handy.

It will actually push the loader ahead or the tractor back.

Then just unhook and back out of it. The first time I removed mine I was skeptical of the manual, but it works like a charm!

When you drive back into it, go ahead until the angled posts just touch the mounts then hook up the hoses. Slowly drive ahead and maintain contact as you operate the joystick to return the rear posts to the vertical position.

It's worked for me, just takes a little practice.

The 524 loader mounts are a bit different from mine, look to see if this will work. Like most things I say, no guarantees!

Sean

Sean, the mounts are quite a bit different, I unhooked and hooked back up one yesterday, and it took me a bit to figure it out. It is still easy, just different. The owner had bent up the pins on the stands that go thru the holes to prevent them from sliding back sideways. We took them off yesterday and straightened them out. He had not taken the loader off since the first fiasco last summer of taking it off on soft ground.. We got everything straightened out, and took the loader on and off easily.