My new Jinma

[billbill1]

Rob, if Bee is like my 284, the pump on mine came loose and ate up the square shaft on the end of the pump. There are two bolts through the front of the engine that attach to the pump. Keep an eye on them. I bought a new pump from Tommy, then took the old one to work and welded and machined a new square on the shaft of the old one. I wanted to get an upgrade pump when I bought the new one and there isn't one available for the 200 series Jinma. Mine really isn't all that slow but faster is always better, right? Anyway, keep an eye on those bolts coming loose. My Koyker FEL has the power beyond on it, I haven't used it yet but plan to in the future. I bought the sleeve (if I can find it).

 

[3RRL]

Bill,
I will keep an eye on those bolts then. Thanks for the heads up.
BTW, her hydraulics are pretty fast. I looked at her pump(s) and I thought she had the -314 pump, which I believe was the same specs as what came on my Kama in 2005. What is yours, Bill?

 

[billbill1]

Rob, mine is a CBN-E314-200, $179.00 on Tommy's site. Maybe Loretta's is upgraded already from mine. Mine is fast enough like it is but since I had to buy a pump, I tried to do an upgrade and Tommy said that one wasn't available. I think the rebuild kits were $25 when I bought one, I can't remember for sure.

 

[billbill1]

Wasn't the input shaft on your pump, splined? The one on mine is a square drive. Maybe 3/8" thick and about 3/4" tall.

 

[3RRL]

Bill,
Are you talking about the one on my Kama? Yes, it is a splined shaft. I haven't taken Loretta's off (yet) so I don't know what hers is like.

 

[3RRL]

We still have the problem that the temperature gauge is not reading the water temperature correctly... or at least that's what we think. In an earlier post, doing the thermostat repair, we found nothing wrong with it nor with the way it fits. After re-assembling the temperature gauge showed the engine heating up, but it has quit working again.
I showed photos of the 284's thermostat sensors back then and here are a couple new ones.
This tells me she has two of them it seems?



One is on the housing where the radiator hose goes to and the other is below, as shown in the last photo above. It is on the water pump intake. I don't know enough about the sensors and how to check if they work or not? Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply suggested that the Teflon tape might not let the sensor read correctly, so I will try removing the tape to get a better contact.

Another fact is when the engine has warmed up, the top radiator hose and housing is warm (hot) to the touch, but below the thermostat, where the 2nd sensor is located the water pump and engine are noticeably cooler.
So my questions are:
-Why does it have 2 sensors and how do they work?
-Which one should the temperature gauge read?
-How do you check them to see if they are working or faulty?
-Why did it work after I opened it, checked the thermostat and closed it up?
-Do you think it's a bad thermostat (although it worked after re-assembly)?
Any other suggestions?

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am not sure why you have two sensors. I am sure my 2003 model has only one. If you remove the wire from one and touch it to ground with the switch on you should see the gauge move.

Chris

 

[3RRL]

Thanks for the reply Chris.
Once I see the gauge move by doing that, I'll know the gauge and wiring is good.
But then how could I tell if the sensor is good or not?
Is there a test I can do with an ohm/voltage meter to the sensor itself?

 

[greg_g]

-Why does it have 2 sensors and how do they work?

One for the temp gauge, one for the EGR? Two sending units, and (if I'm right about the EGR) two destinations. That means you should have a 50/50 chance of getting the wires right. Or have you already tried reversing the connections?

//greg//

 

[California]

One for the temp gauge, one for the EGR?

In that case, I wonder if one is proportional and the other on/off. That could give some strange results if they got wired backward.