My method to remove peened or crimped on tooth.

[dickfoster]

I broke a tooth on my backhoe and of course it was a crimp on and it just had to be the middle tooth.
After beating on it with a hammer as per the manual and not getting very far, you just can't get in there to get a good swing at it, I paused to reconsider the methodology. I decided to get out my angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I split the tooth right up the middle on the backside of the tooth, the side I could get to since it's outside the bucket. Being careful not to cut too deep and cut through to the shank, I had the cut made in a minute or two. After that I could then peel the broken tooth off with a chisel and hammer by putting the chisel in the cut and curling it out. Same thing for the opposite side. It was much easier than trying to pound it off by trying to swing the hammer from inside that small bucket. As they say in England, it worked a treat. Just thought I'd share.

 

[RitchElbe]

There you go.,.smarty not harder ... unless its the 3rd date

 

[dickfoster]

There you go.,.smarty not harder ... unless its the 3rd date

I have to work smarter now because I'm too old to work harder.

 

[mrtwister]

dickfoster: I'm curious.... how were you able to install the new tooth on the shank while still dealing with the same confined space?....did you have problems crimping the tooth back on?...thanks.... twister

 

[dickfoster]

dickfoster: I'm curious.... how were you able to install the new tooth on the shank while still dealing with the same confined space?....did you have problems crimping the tooth back on?...thanks.... twister

Nope not at all. I used a MAPP gas torch to heat the tooth over all so it would enlarge in order to provide a tighter fit, then I put the tooth on the shank and gave the end a tap to seat it, then heated the peen area read hot with the MAPP torch. While it was still hot. I next used a large punch and hammer to peen the heel of the tooth into the recess in the shank. The long punch provided the necessary reach to get to the area that required peening.

Heating was slow going with the MAPP torch but was just doable so I picked up a small Oxy/Acetylene rig yesterday. I've been needing and/or wanting one anyway.

 

[joecdeere]

yep, just split one down the sides with a cutting disc, been putting off replacing this one I broke a while back pulling rocks up

 

[dickfoster]

yep, just split one down the sides with a cutting disc, been putting off replacing this one I broke a while back pulling rocks up

I was lazy so just made one cut down the middle and peeled sideways. I searched on here and didn't see the cut off method so I had to think it up on my own. Necessity is the mother of invention.

Don't put it off so long that you damage your shank. Then it will be grinder/welder time.

 

[Rustyiron]

:laughing: I always had trouble keeping them ON.
I used to have to weld them so they would stay.

 

[dickfoster]

:laughing: I always had trouble keeping them ON.
I used to have to weld them so they would stay.

Well if I have that problem I'll tack weld them too. I did heat the tooth up before tapping it into place to make what is called an interference fit. Then I heated the peen area red hot and peened it down into the recess on the shank like they did wherever the bucket was made, Kansas most likely.