My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,131  
Slip joint 'water pump' pliers work a lot better if you hold and turn them in the proper direction.:) The blue pair are are being forced to loosen instead of tightening in that direction of pull.
Thank for the updates. I'm in the middle of a house reno and I've gleaned a lot of ideas and solutions to problems by watching.

Patrick
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,132  
Slip joint 'water pump' pliers work a lot better if you hold and turn them in the proper direction.:) The blue pair are are being forced to loosen instead of tightening in that direction of pull.
Thank for the updates. I'm in the middle of a house reno and I've gleaned a lot of ideas and solutions to problems by watching.

Patrick
Yeah i was thinking about mentioning that too, as it seems a lot of people don't realize it. Look at the teeth on the jaws, especially the fixed one on the end. You will see they are not straight but are angled back. You want to be pulling in that direction. In the video at one spot you had both channellocks pointed the same direction. That means one of them is wrong... They will work in the wrong direction , but not as well/easily.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,133  
I’ve never seen a gas connection like that, but I’ve not dealt with propane. I would have wanted the HDPE pipe fused.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,134  
I’ve never seen a gas connection like that, but I’ve not dealt with propane. I would have wanted the HDPE pipe fused.
If propane is like natural gas then those connections are totally adequate. Natural gas in Alberta comes to the yard at 20 lbs pressure. It goes into the house at 4 ounces pressure. Where the regulator is placed will determine the pressure in the line.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,135  
Yeah i was thinking about mentioning that too, as it seems a lot of people don't realize it. Look at the teeth on the jaws, especially the fixed one on the end. You will see they are not straight but are angled back. You want to be pulling in that direction. In the video at one spot you had both channellocks pointed the same direction. That means one of them is wrong... They will work in the wrong direction , but not as well/easily.
The same philosophy applies to a pipe wrench.

When using a specialty tool I've had my Son say "Here Dad, turn it around like this" with patience and a smile. Thanks Son!!!!
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,136  
If propane is like natural gas then those connections are totally adequate. Natural gas in Alberta comes to the yard at 20 lbs pressure. It goes into the house at 4 ounces pressure. Where the regulator is placed will determine the pressure in the line.
Most regulators I have installed for high volume propane use are 12 psi at the tank, then another regulator of 11" of water column to service loads. 11" of water column is about 0.4 psi.

@buckeyefarmer above mentioned fused HDPE, it is always the prefered method. But not really needed at the lower psi of a residential loads. Fusion welded HDPE is most used for high psi distribution.

Edit: slipped a digit, above in bold 12 psi at the tank.
 
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   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#4,137  
Propane in tank is in the hundreds of PSI. It leaves the tank thru a pigtail of 1/4 inch copper to a first stage regulator that reduces it to 12 PSI. Leaves the regulator in 1/2 inch copper to a flare connection to the steel riser that I have sticking up out of the ground. On the house side, the riser comes up to some iron pipe fittings and then a second stage regulator thet reduces it to 11 inches water pressure (about .5 psi). And then it goes thru a shut off valve and into the house, to feed the boiler and the range. That is the design plan it passed inspection easily. Had it charged to 17 psi for 2 days. Held with no reduction.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #4,138  
Propane in tank is in the hundreds of PSI. It leaves the tank thru a pigtail of 1/4 inch copper to a first stage regulator that reduces it to 12 PSI. Leaves the regulator in 1/2 inch copper to a flare connection to the steel riser that I have sticking up out of the ground. On the house side, the riser comes up to some iron pipe fittings and then a second stage regulator thet reduces it to 11 inches water pressure (about .5 psi). And then it goes thru a shut off valve and into the house, to feed the boiler and the range. That is the design plan it passed inspection easily. Had it charged to 17 psi for 2 days. Held with no reduction.
Exactly how mine is done with an additional T buried in the yard to supply two buildings. Each building having the secondary regulator.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#4,139  
New video this morning. Building the shower pan.

DIY Shower - I built my own shower pan - First time shower with kerdi and hydroban.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#4,140  
Finding a piece of dark colored manufactured stone for the curb. turned out to be a lot harder than I thought. The big box stores have it in several shades of white and a very light grey. I ended up going to a tile store and getting some 24 inch pieces of sandstone tile that I think will do the trick. I have a wetsaw so I will out that to work this weekend.
 
 
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