My Industrial Cabin Build

[Carl_NH]

Great work and progress and nice video, and your ground is nice digging - no boulders or ledge!

Question, are you running the well line to the house, then feeding from the house to the hydrants after the tank?

It wasn't clear in the video but assume you ran two separate lines (feed to the house, then feed from house to outdoor hydrants) after the pressure tank? Also outdoor feeds/faucets usually have a backflow device in the feed line and a valve inside to isolate the outdoor lines (freezing/repairs etc.)

 

[buckeyefarmer]

The meter is on the house. I didn’t understand your question until you clarified. I am keeping the other meter that is at the transformer, to provide power for the barn build and will have then run a separate line to the barn.

Since I plan to run the electric line for the well today, I wish I had asked the inspector if I have to have two separate entry points to bring them into the house. I have a 3 inch conduit under the foundation to bring the water pipe in. They would both fir, but I don’t know if that is allowed.

My water and well electric line enter the same conduit thru the wall. Then the ends of the conduit was caulked.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Is the T post necessary to add stability/prevent frost heave to the hydrant?

Can you show what you did with the bucket on the hydrant? I assume it’s to put gravel in at the base of the hydrant for the discharge when off.

Nice job putting in the pitless. I braved it and didn’t use a string. Or else I forgot I did, lol.

 

[AnotherBueller]

My roofer used lead boots on my metal roof. He said that the rubber ones have a 20-30 yr life span, while lead is just about forever.

 

[dstig1]

David, While I am a big fan of the phrase "Every tool is a hammer. Except a screwdriver. That one is a chisel" I have to say this is the first time I have seen a propane torch used as a hammer!

 

[WoodChuckDad]

The T Post is to provide stability so that the hydrant doesn’t get pushed over while the loosened ground is hardening up over the next year or so and also so that if you bump it, there is something holding it in place besides the pipe.
I am installing another tomorrow morning and will cover the bucket in depth.
When I was whacking the brass “T” with the propane tank, I was trying to hit it with the built in ring on the edge. I think I missed every time.

The way I have the line set up for the water is that there will be both a check valve and a cyclestop valve hanging from pump line in the well. The line is pressurized. When you open a hydrant, water comes out and the pressure drops, the pressure switch sends voltage to the pump and water begins pumping until the (water line) is closed. There is no back valve needed because it is a constant pressure system. If there was a power outage, there is a check valve to prevent back feed. When I put in the barn I will probably install a check valve on the hydrant so that it will have.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Don't forget a water pressure gauge in some easily viewed place.
This is what I did:
View attachment 735978

My Throne room is right next to my mechanical room. As I sit and take court, there will be two doors. One to my left goes back into the bathroom. One to the right goes into the mechanical room. All I have to do is take a peek and I see the gauges.

 

[ovrszd]

Is the T post necessary to add stability/prevent frost heave to the hydrant?

I use that method to hold the hydrant securely so you don't stress the connection to the water line over time.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

As a person that fixes houses for a living, I sure wouldn't have a roof line like that if I could avoid it. No matter what material you use, that upper wall at the ridgeline is going to require maintenance of some kind.

I have three jobs coming up this year to remove pergola porches and build a solid roof type porch. They look nice, but do a poor job of providing shade and they do nothing to keep out the rain.

I'm in the process of converting my attached work shop into a garage for my wife. Eventually I'll build a separate building for my workshop, but the need is there for her to be able to pull in and to be able to unload groceries in there. Why don't you want a garage?

One ton of AC extra for each window.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

One ton of AC extra for each window.

So I need 28 tons of A/C? Or is it only the windows in the front? That would be 13. 14 if you count the doors.

How much does that cost?