My Home Made Cable Plow

[gizmo]

After two previous failed attempts I finally got a rig that worked. The first one bent on a root and the second one broke a weld on a root. Shown below is the plow and feed spool attached to my boom pole. The log on the end is the counter weight that forces the plow down. I took this thing through 300' of dense woods from my barn to an irrigation pump on the creek. I pulled a 10-3 UF cable.

 

[PineRidge]

Gizmo neat gadget, glad it worked well. My only suggestion might be to use a counterweight a bit closer to the ground for safety sake.

What voltage and amperage will you be needing to pull through 300' of 10-3 UF cable for your pump?

 

[Bully]

Very good idea for down pressure. I like the idea of laying the cable in the ground, rather than pulling it through.

 

[gizmo]

Pineridge,

Once the plow is dropped into the ground the counter weight is only a few inches off the ground. The voltage is 240VAC driving a 3HP pump rated at 230VAC, 14A. I calculated a 5% voltage drop at full power using 10-3 wire. Since the pump is rated at 230VAC and my supply is 240VAC, and the pump will probably not run at full power, the voltage drop should not be an issue.

 

[gabby]

Hey Gizmo,

Nice work. More suggestions from an old pipe plow hand:

1. Buy a chisel plow wear point (it will be curved, about 10 inches long), cut it in half crosswise, and weld one end to the tip of your plow foot to utilize the curve in the point to help pull it down into the ground.

2. Weld a vertical "slicer" to the entire front vertical edge of the plow to slice through roots and sod better. I used 1/2" bar, vee'd and sharpened along the leading edge. Shape the bottom end of it to fit to the curved point and weld it to the point also to strengthen the point.

gabby

 

[Holzster]

Gabby - You stated "Buy a chisel plow wear point (it will be curved, about 10 inches long), cut it in half crosswise, and weld one end to the tip of your plow foot to utilize the curve in the point to help pull it down into the ground.'"

Do you mean point it to the front (the curve?

 

[gabby]

Hey Holzter,
Yes that's what I mean. Here's a picture of mine.
gabby

 

[bobodu]

Here's a shot of the pipe/wire puller I made.There is a 1 1/2 inch "bullet" attached to the heel of the blade to hook onto the pipe.This makes a tunnel for the pipe to run in.Just used to doing it this way...
If she wants to ride up.I'll weld a sweep to the bottom.

 

[bobodu]

Here is a shot from a slightly different angle.Gonna pull this 53 inch monster with an Oliver 1850

 

[OldWelder]

Gizmo,

Other than the offered suggestions, great job!!
It worked and by the looks of the woods your going through, was far from idea conditions. *LOL* I'm thinking it was a treat with that log hanging back there.

Bob,

This is pretty much what I was trying to explain to you.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Bobodu, Your pictures look similar to what I had in mind as a trial to see if I could rip 3 feet, preferably more, for planting olive trees next Oct/Nov. Speed is not important, but my tractor is only 45hp. A new NH and my experience so far (just over 500 hours) is that it is almost as versatile as the little grey Fergie. I am an expert at putting tractors where they should not be, and I have not had to winch this one out yet. Any thoughts on whether I can do my own ripping rather than hire a contractor (very hard to find in this area). Old McDonald.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Bobodu, Just noticed after I posted that your location ends in EIEIO. Care to tell me why? That is my email address for obvious reasons, and before we moved here our farm name in Scotland was Hazza Farm. Old McDonald.

 

[bobodu]

I knew what you were talking about Joe...I's just ignorin' you... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I forgot mention that the "foot" on the leading edge of my plow acted like a rudder sending the blade off at an angle...bending it maybe 30 degrees!!!

Cut that part off...welded in sone braces and added a sweep from a cultivator for down pressure.Worked great...till the tires started spinning on the 60 HP!! I did manage to pull 400 feet of pipe in ten minutes at a depth of 8 inches /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bobodu]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( before we moved here our farm name in Scotland was Hazza Farm. Old McDonald. )</font>

Hah...that's GREAT!!!

Aye..tha' be better than Hadda Sheep!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Where abouts in Scotland?? My folks took me over when I was about 16.Drank Shandy's at the B&Bs till we got to Oban and discovered REAL Scotch.I owe a debt of gratitude to a wee sma Lass there...ahem. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

The reasoning behind EIEIO is that..." I live so far out that the zip code is EIEIO"

 

[OldMcDonald]

Hazza Farm is near Culbokie on the Black Isle just north of Inverness. I never cared for the Oban area - too many Argyll Campbells, and we all know what they are like. Remember Glencoe. Old Mcdonald.

 

[bobodu]

Hey Mac.....got into an internet arguement once with a fella from London (now living in Texas) because I mentioned Glencoe /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
He made some mention of " questionable.far distantly related,Scottish in name only....blah blah ....constantly reliving ancient occurances..." Thought about mentioning the (American) Civil War...But I don't think it would have the same effect on a fella from London with Texas plates.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
"Ya'll want a nice cup of tea with your BBQ?" /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The Goodwins moved from Paisley to Ohio in 1860.Just in time to fight some more.Now I think I'll go irritate the neighbors w'me pipes!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[OldMcDonald]

If he was from London he would not know much about Scotland anyway. We had a free range egg business whilst there and frequently people would touch me on the forearm (I never did find out why) and tell me I had a "good name". Country people tend not to forget things for a very, very long time.

Back to the topic. You did not answer my question about ripping for the new olive trees. The soil is fairly light. very fine when dry (half the year without irrigation, although we will be installing drip lines) and hopefully no nasty surprises. I thought 20mm (three-quarter inch - why do these modern keyboards not have fractions???) by 6" plate drilled to make the depth adjustable on a tpl frame and angled for easier pentration might do the trick. I can scarify to 12" quite easily and I thought 3" extra depth on each pass of the ripper might do the job. Thoughts/advice/comments/? And from anybody else that cares to. Old McDonald.

 

[bobodu]

I do fractions this way...2/4,3/8 ,75/78,1 657/978

As long as you are making several passes and you don't have the CLAY we do...should work.What's the plan for downforce...sweep or log? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[OldMcDonald]

Concrete. I live in what used to be an olive pressing mill, way. way, back (Napoleon's Army was here in July 1810) before Wellington gave them the old Heave-ho. Did you know that the rubber boots he "invented" for his soldiers and called Wellingtons or Wellies for short were first thought of by him here in Portugal? No, you learn something useless every day! Anyway, the roof trusses are all concrete because of nastty little beasties that eat wood and there are lots lying around. I use them for ballast whenever needed. Old McDonald.