My first Hydraulics post-need experience/expertise I don't have

ksshooter · Feb 21, 2012

I have done quite a bit of reading and I now know why I was directed to this forum from attachments regarding hooking up the third function on my new Econo-Grapple.
I am trying to think through the choice I have between doing my CHEAPIE 3rd function or doing CHEAPIE rear remotes.
This is my choice for the third function:
Surplus Center - 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE
I cannot justify the expensive joystick switch since it really will not be that handy the way my stick is configured (the switch would more stick out the front than be on top) so I was going to use a trolling motor footswitch on the HST clutch side to turn the diverter on when I need it or just a switch clamped to the joy stick (heck; they want $60 for them). After that it is a matter of hoses and quick connectors. I was planning on matching to whatever size hose is on the grapple.
The alternative is to come off the main block PB and go for the rear remotes. However, most of the factory ones come off with "tubing" that is preformed to make the specific run. Is it okay to just use hose from the PB and back to the tank. I am pretty sure that I could run with this valve:Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21BB5C1 DA VALVE
and again just deal with termination brackets, hoses and quick connectors.
It appears the cost of valves is about the same and it is all going to come down to hoses, connectors and building or buying a bracket to hold the QA terminations.
So here are the questions: Does my 3rd function option appear reasonable?
Is there more to the dual rear remotes other than what I mentioned?
I don't love plumbing, but I also do not love paying $600 for one rear remote or $700 for a third function!!!

Willl · Feb 21, 2012

I went the 3rd function route with that same valve.

And for the switch I used a motorcycle kill button mounted to the joy-stick.

The kill buttons are pretty cheap. The only thing I don't like about it is it's not a 'positive snap' type switch. Sometimes I gotta push hard on the button to get contact.

J_J · Feb 21, 2012

ksshooter,

Your FEL valve flow is 6.1 GPM, so the valve you chose is a good selection.

That valve should be good for what you want it to do, however, the grapple will be very fast, as there is no feather with that valve. I would use 1/4 in hose from work ports of the valve to grapple, and maybe a needle valve on the base end for the level of control you need.

CJONE · Feb 21, 2012

If I did not have a rear remote the selector valve would be my first choice. It may even win out with my rear remote depending on how hard the remote is to use. CJ

Willl · Feb 21, 2012

J_J said:
as there is no feather with that valve.

That would come from the tractors SCV.

ksshooter · Feb 21, 2012

Everyone so far..thank you! I was wondering about the hose size and alternative switches.
I was probably not clear in all my questions. The one still up in the air is:
Would I be close to the same costs to go "homemade" rear remotes (using valve show with PB conversion added) versus the 3rd function diverter (using valve shown) understanding more hose/connections are involved and an additional bracket to hold the rear connections?

What is SCV?