My favorite Sanding Disks

[jjeff]

3m works good, Norton brand isn't bad either. through experience stripping barrier coat and antifouling on boat hulls, removing the dust collector on sander and hooking up the end to a shopvac hose (using tape) really helps keeping the sanding disc cleaner for longer plus it keeps the dust down.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I was told a long time ago that the best primer is the original paint. If it's still working, don't remove it. On this job, I'm removing all of the paint that is flacking off that the two previous contractors just painted over. They also painted over ivy that had grown up on the house a decade ago and caulked over the rotten areas, or just put another board over top of the rotten areas to hide the rot, and painted over that. This is the first time in 60 years that this house is getting the full treatment of fixing everything, and making it perfect.

I like Norton sanding disks, but personally classify them with Diablo as a middle of the road brand. Not junk like gator and Craftsman, but not what I need for what I'm doing. I get them at Northern Tool.

I agree. When I bought my house the paint was in very poor shape, and the siding was starting to crack. My repair was:

1. Remove gutters and downspouts.
2. Pressure wash to get loose flakes off.
3. Scrape to remove flakes the pressure washer wouldn't remove.
4. TSP and push broom scrub the whole surface.
5. Pressure wash again.
6. Prime the whole surface with a high quality primer. I used Z-prime with an airless and back-brushing.
7. Calk all seams and cracks.
8. Airless and back-brush a good quality latex semi-gloss. I used Sherwin-Williams.
9. Brush paint trim, fascia, etc.
10. Install new gutters and downspouts.

It's not something you want to pay a painter to do, but if you want a paint job that looks good and lasts a long time...

The project took most of the summer. Scraping alone took 3 weekends, calking took 2 weekends ( I used 72 tubes of calk), and I used the opportunity to replace the windows. The result? 25 years with no peeling paint. Even the calking didn't crack. I've done a couple subsequent paint jobs that skipped the scraping and only TSP'ed it and pressure washed. I always back roll or back brush a spray job to get good adhesion.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm not a fan of pressure washing a house. You end up with water in places it shouldn't be, and it takes forever to dry out. I'm scraping, then sanding, then caulking and priming. When they decide on a color, I'll paint.

If anybody has a good idea of paint colors, here's a picture of the house I'm working on. They like the color that is already on the bricks. They also need a color for the new shingles, which should happen later this month.

 

[two_bit_score]

They also need a color for the new shingles, which should happen later this month

We recently had ‘Weathered Wood’ colored shingles by Tamco installed on two different houses. It’s a good color and is easily available. From the picture you posted it would probably work well if they want something close to the brick color, instead of a contrasting color.

 

[two_bit_score]

7. Calk all seams and cracks.

Use caution on caulking where it will trap water and keep it from draining away.

 

[two_bit_score]

I like Sherwin-Williams for paint supplies more than HD and Lowe‘s. But Lowe’s is caring a lot of S-W brands too.

 

[EddieWalker]

From what I understand, Valspar owns Sherwin Williams. The Manager at Sherwin Williams told me that they the paint they sell at Lowes is cheaper then what they sell it for in their store, but it's the exact same paint. Since the Lockdown, I've been going to Kelly Moore instead of Sherwin Williams. They did not go so crazy with things, and they have not run out of paint like Sherwin Williams has. On my own home, I use Valspar paint. I think it's as good as anything else, but for a better price. My clients all want Sherwin Williams.

 

[two_bit_score]

Yes, Valspar is a S-W brand.

 

[ponytug]

I tried something like that a long time ago and didn't care for it. Is this new and worth buying to remove old paint and wood on the exterior of a 60 year old house?

I find them to be pretty aggressive (blue and brown), so I would use them with light pressure. The sorts of places I would use them are heavily cracked/chipping paint, where I plan to come back and finish sand the substrate to get it smooth enough to prime. They do really well at not clogging.

They make a couple of grades. Some are fine plastic disks, like a scotch-brite pad with a hole in it, and some have much coarser (1/16"?) fibers with much larger pores in the disc. The fine ones don't remove as much material and are more prone to loading up.

All the best,

Peter

 

[papa4fofox]

I'm a woodturner and do a lot of sanding. I have found Klingspor's Woodworking Shop has the best abrasives available. Go to their website and look under Abrasives.

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop is full line distributor of woodworking tools and supplies from respected companies like Klingspor Abrasives.

www.woodworkingshop.com

You can buy disks or I have it more economical to buy Rolls and cut my own disks.