My 50 hour maintenance

Illini22 · Aug 31, 2014

I started with the hydraulic system. The fluid that came out of the two rear drains was pretty clean. The center drain plug had a magnet on the plug and as others have said, it had a few metal shavings and fine metal on it. Now the filter! Thanks to others here, I had purchased a chain wrench off amazon earlier in the year. After soaking on blaster on it, I still couldn't get it to move. Debated on removing the rear wheel for a angle, then decided to tie a piece of mule tape (flat rope for puling wire in conduits) to the end of the wrench. Wrapped the rope around my waist, leaned back (behind tractor) and with my BIL on the wrench end, we got it to break free. Everyone here was right. A 800 pound gorilla put it on. Moved on to the hst filter. When I broke that one free I thought a part of the tractor came with it. Only after looking at the new filter did I see that it was part of the filter. I used a large funnel and hose to refill the hydraulic system. I removed the dip stick to help vent it. I had to stop a few times and give it time to drain. I've only been able to get 8 gallons in it so far. It registers on the dip stick but just above the low mark. I'll try to add more today.
Moved on to the oil pan/ filter. I gently tightened the drain plugs. If I hadn't read about the filler cap being on top of the valve cover, I probably would've used the plug that's on the side of the motor. The cap on top is hidden well with a support bracket above the cap. I thought it took 7 qts., I started with 6 and it was still low, added another and it's still low. I'll have to check my book to be sure.
I then moved to the front axle. Removed the top center drain, no problem. Removed the lower right drain, nothing! I remembered some threads here about some issues on this subject. Sure enough it was the right side. Like others said, it's probably an assembly problem. The left drain plug Worked as it should and quite a bit of the fluid came out.
On all the drain plugs, if the paint wasn't holding them on, I probably could've removed them with my hands, I kidding, but they were not very snug. I used mobil 424 for both the hydro and front axle. I had previously changed the fuel and air filter so I didn't change them again (I have spares).
I then decided to remove my detent from the remote. Thanks to others here for the pics and video. I was always worried about accidently hitting the lever (I'm always looking at it) or worse letting someone else operate it and not even being aware of it. I always have the TNT hooked up so the pump wouldn't be deadheading but why worry.
I can't thank all the people here (enough) for all the advice and pointers that made this painless. My BIL was impressed that as we moved from along to each task, I had little tidbits of information. This site is amazing. Thanks

Threepoint · Aug 31, 2014

Thanks for the detailed write-up. :thumbsup: I have another 13 hrs to go before hitting the 50 hr mark on my Kioti. Haven't decided yet on whether I'll do full fluid replacement, but it's nice to hear about recent experiences. Must say, sure hope Kioti has listened to the feedback, and either modified the design or cut back on the torque used to seat the filters at the factory to avoid the problem on the new NX series. I'm fairly certain they don't have 800 lb gorillas screwing them on, so they should have been able to resolve the matter pretty easily.

The front axle fluid issue is more concerning. I'll have to check out the threads on it that you mentioned. Did you conclude that the right side axle was dry? :shocked:

k0ua · Aug 31, 2014

The engine oil is supposed to go in the orange rubber filler cap by the fuel injector pump NOT the top hidden cap.

Look on page 7-13 of the owners manual. It is shown as "oil inlet" a photo with a 1 pointing to the rubber plug by the injector pump

Illini22 · Sep 1, 2014

James, now I feel like a dummy? Is this something I should be concerned with? Looking at the dipstick, I'm a touch low but most of the oil (if not all) reached the oil pan.

gkm · Sep 1, 2014

You should have a 12mm (I think) bolt that is the vent for adding hydraulic fluid. It's located on the left side of the top link...should be painted orange. Just remove and you should find that the hydro fluid will go in a lot easier.

k0ua · Sep 1, 2014

Illini22 said:
James, now I feel like a dummy? Is this something I should be concerned with? Looking at the dipstick, I'm a touch low but most of the oil (if not all) reached the oil pan.

From what I understand, it drains down eventually, The problems I have heard about is when adding it on the top, and then immediately starting the engine. Probably nothing to worry about in your case..

k0ua · Sep 1, 2014

gkm said:
You should have a 12mm (I think) bolt that is the vent for adding hydraulic fluid. It's located on the left side of the top link...should be painted orange. Just remove and you should find that the hydro fluid will go in a lot easier.

yep, that is in the manual too!

Guys the best place you can put that manual when you get your tractor is in the bathroom.. Read it every chance you get.

Illini22 · Sep 1, 2014

Thanks for the pointers. I'll look for the venting bolt next time I'm at my property. I mentioned to my BIL that Kioti painted all the drain and fill locations orange, except the oil filler cap (which was hidden on top under a support bracket). Now I know I was wrong, as the oil filler plug is orange and very easy to see!