MY 29DA is dead

[Milldozer]

I have a 29DA, for about 3 years.....ran into a multi-problems...I have to keep replacing the ignition switch every six months....they burn out...took it in and they seem to not find the problem...By now I learned to take the switch apart and file the plastic off the contacts to get it to last longer...however....today after playing around with the switch...lights come on and no starting....all the dash lights and headlights are nice and bright... I took the jump box....still no good... The PTO light is on...and stays on...went thru all the contacts and switches.....stays on unless i unplug it down by the rear wheel....i read about the 33 with fuse #2, is that the same on the 29D. That is my most important problems... and like most of the writing this tractor has the case of all the problems...from keep replacing the hyd hoses up front...and they still leak..to the rear PTO disengaging with the tiller is on....so trying to finish fall clean and could use some expert advice.

I know about the throttle sliding down...i will fix that...minor problem, already fixed the telescoping wheel...
thanks

 

[dqdave1]

Check pto switch under fender by linkages for pto. I put the relay on the starter circuit, seemed to resolved starter problems. ( These are the CIH part numbers listed in the bulletin:

1 30A Relay 86529089
1 Relay Base 245731C1
4 Terminal 225077C1

It says to procure the following items locally: ring style connector, 14 gauge wire & female spade connector.

If ignition switches are "burning" up; sounds like high amperage going through switch. WHat size fuse in main fuse by starter?
The #2 fuse is in class III units; not class II.

 

[ericinmich]

My 29DA wouldn't start after being shut down for 15 minutes. I traced wires/voltage. Tried jumping it... ended up being the starter switch. I ended up replacing it with a simple one from NAPA and a push button for the glow plug circuit.

The symptoms were very similar to what you are seeing. But, you know about the ign. switch issues so maybe that's not the problem.

I've read about the repeated problems with the junk switch that they use so I figured that the generic switch would be worth a try (about $15 if I remember). I had to dremmil/drill out the mounting hole a bit... that was the only part that concerned me. It'll be tough to go back.

Good luck. Sorry I can't add much...

- Eric

 

[390GT]

On my 33DA if the connectors on the underside come unplugged my PTO light stays on. You said yours go off. Does your tractor have a mid PTO?
If so, then there would be two connectors (Still have just the one indicator light). Also since you had the ignition switch out you should look carefully in that area to see if something came unplugged or otherwise lost its connection. Greg

 

[Milldozer]

thanks....i do have the mid..and will check them out....the shop told me that the ign...must have a grounding problem...getting a connector...you have to buy the whole ball of wax....and it is very expensive...im probably going to make my own ign...thanks...

 

[Milldozer]

there are 4 wires that go in the plug...any idea of what connector goes where...there are four....im think acces, start, starter, and glow plug...there ign is so cheap...and when i take them apart the plastic is melted on the inside...i usually scrape the plastic off and wait till one of the prongs go deep enough that it doesn't work well ... then i go get my $60.00 switch for the dealer

 

[SteveInMD]

A flaw in the starting circuit design is causing the circuit to draw too much current. Did you replace the fuse in this circuit with a larger one? It should be 10 amps.

The attached PDF file has diagrams that will solve your problems. It shows how to split the original starting circuit in to two circuits. The first diagram shows the original, the second is the modification to the original circuit and the third adds the new circuit.

There is no doubt in my mind that this is the correct fix for your problem. Anyone with starting problems should make this change.

 

[ericinmich]

A flaw in the starting circuit design is causing the circuit to draw too much current. Did you replace the fuse in this circuit with a larger one? It should be 10 amps.

The attached PDF file has diagrams that will solve your problems. It shows how to split the original starting circuit in to two circuits. The first diagram shows the original, the second is the modification to the original circuit and the third adds the new circuit.

There is no doubt in my mind that this is the correct fix for your problem. Anyone with starting problems should make this change.

Steve's solution is a great one if your ign switch isn't already toast or you are willing to buy another one. My NAPA solution of using a generic ign switch for the start/ign circuits, and use a push button for the glow plug seems to be working fine (for over a year). You turn the ign switch to on, push the glow plug button, when it goes out turn the switch to crank, and off she goes! I ran the battery wire to the ign switch. the run circuit goes out to the harness and I added a jumper to the new glow plug button, and the starter circuit wire to the ign switch, and the glow plug wire to the new push button... I'll try to draw it out...