MT372 Clutch Issue and Repair

[kempfat]

This is my MT372. Recently, I believe has developed a clutch issue due to my carelessness. I was revving the engine with the tractor in gear with my foot on the clutch when my foot slipped off the clutch. When my foot slipped off the clutch, the tractor jerked forward violently. I gained control of the tractor by pressing the clutch. I released the clutch slowely and the tractor started to move in first. I thought all was good but it wasn't long before the tractor started to slip in and out of gear by itself. The sound of metal could also be heard clanking around in the clutch area. So with that being said, I have decided to split my tractor. This is something that I have never done and I don't have a manual pertaining to the clutch assembly or its removal. I have taken photos of the process and decided to share on this forum / post. Hope this helps some folks with issues that they may come accross...

Here are the steps that I have performed to split my tractor. If you have a manual, use it!
ON A HARD (Concrete and or 3/4 Plywood)FLAT LEVEL SURFACE:
Replace bolts in holes once items are removed so they don't get lost!

Step 1: Disconnect and remove the battery.
Step 2: Drain all hydraulic fluid. I also drained all other fluids because it was due.
Step 3: I removed the seat, tool box and fenders to take a peek inside the shifting gear box. I needed to rule out any destroyed gears and to see if debris or water were present. To my surprise, squeaky clean and no moisture present.
Step 4: I disconnected all electrical components, oil pressure gauge, glow plug indicator and light switch and removed the dash. I also turned off my fuel line and removed the tank and tank mount. You also have to disconnect any linkage from the hand throttle.
Step 5: Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the pump. I found this to be convenient.
Step 6: With everything out of the way, block your rear wheels. Use a floor jack with wheels to lift the tractor from the front ever so slightly. Install blocking or cribbing under the back half of the tractor and then let the tractor down. Both front tires should be on the ground.
Step 7: Place the jack under the front axle. (I felt comfortable doing this because I had extra weight on the front) and raise the jack so it is snug to the axle. Have a safety block in place for when you split the tractor. You don't want it to fall on the ground! Once that is complete, remove all the bolts holding the two tractor halves togeter. Leave the top bolt in but loosen it. That way you can get an idea on what your tractor is going to do once you break the seal.
Step 8: Ask a friend to help you with this part! Ensure that you are both ready. Each person grabs the front bumper and someplace close to the dash area to stabilize the front half of the tractor. Remove the final bolt and pull the front half from the back half. The back half should not drop or move.
Step 9: Remove the bolts around the pressure plate and remove the pressure plate.
This is where I stopped. There were small thin metal pieces between the pressure plate and the clutch.

The clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing looked to be in great condition. I have no idea where that metal came from. The only place that I could see that it may have come from is the hole where the drive shaft/gear goes into the engine. Is there a shim sleeve or something that goes in there? Feel free to take a look at the photos. I would greatly apprecieate any feed back/help, or a manual if anyone has one to spare. Thanks!

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I believe you are correct - the metal shown on the hand appears to be the bushing/bearing for the front of the transmission shaft which sits in the center of the flywheel. You can get a replacement from NCW Tractor in Nevada or at least they used to be able to get them.

 

[kempfat]

Thanks. I appreciate your input. Now if I could just find a blown up diagram of the installation!

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

You probably won't find that. If you do get a new bushing I'd install it so its flush with the rear face of the flywheel recess. If it needs to go in further the shaft should drive it in to its final position upon assembly.

 

[lightleader]

Great job, I'm looking at going into my clutch to find out why mine won't release. It was stuck when i got it, started it in 2nd high & drove it around holding the clutch petal in & after about 30 seconds she popped free. Has been good for a few weeks then (I read to prevent clutch sticking use the clutch petal lock) yesterday went to use it & when I released the lock almost no spring tension on the petal, can depress it with one finger. Clutch stays fully engaged. Any idea of what might have broken or stuck inside there?

 

[docsplace]

I'm having same issue with MT1601D. clutch is stuck now, I have tried pulling and popping it loose by going into the inspection hole spraying it with WD and popping it with punch. Getting force against it and holding clutch in with no luck yet. Did you ever figure your's out.

Thanks
Tom

 

[lightleader]

Nope, no one has any suggestions on the subject either

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

My experience has been you'll need to split the tractor in half and replace at least the clutch disc, possibly the entire assembly. The splines on the clutch shaft will be dry and they need some lube to operate easily otherwise they tend to keep the clutch pressed up against the pressure plate even when you push the pedal down. You'll usually find the throw-out bearing has exceeded its useful life as well. That alone will justify the repair. Then you'll be good for another 30-40 years. You might get away with just breaking the clutch free if the tractor has sat for a decade or two and a little use again might give a few years more service. If the tractor has been used in the last year or so and has been kept relatively dry then it's unlikely the problem will go away even if you do break it free temporarily. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to effectively lubricate the clutch shaft with a long-term lubricant like grease without splitting the tractor and getting direct access to the splined connection.

 

[docsplace]

I have my MT1601D split and I am not getting any reaction out of the clutch release system at all, Could it be rusted solid, Spline and bearing spin but does no engage to depress the clutch. Any suggestion, pics, or instructions, I might have to split the clutch release box to get a look at it. I wonder if removing the steering shaft mechanisms would get me access to that spline and release parts under that. I have looked at a repair manual and it is vague and tells you how to remove & replace that box but that's about it. Also gonna look at the play in the clutch pedal according to the adjustment instruction it should only 1.18" and mine is at least 3".

 

[docsplace]

What I see so far is the release or thrust bearing appears to be stuck and the fork is not engaging the release bearing when clutch is depressed. First thing is I'm going have to adjust that clutch pedal play to make sure that is not a issue, So for I can not move the release bearing hub by hand or with pry bar. There is about 3" of free play in clutch pedal before it starts moving the arm forward to engage the fork, then about another inch of movement for the arm and then it's gets stiff with no movement of the arm or release bearing and about another 2 or more inch of clutch pedal before it would bottom out if it was working, So it looks like either the pins are sheared or bent or forks and or stuck hub release bearing assy. (today's job is to figure that out lol) I found a pretty good image of that under the case IH 234 parts web site, it's not exactly the same but close enough to see what parts are involved in the clutch system.