Moving Dirt

[Kodiak]

I have been using CUT's for landscaping and small excavation work for a lot of years and have seldom found anyplace where I needed a toothbar. In fact it would hinder me more than help as I back drag material all the time.

Thats a beautiful house that you have to.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color=blue>"I have been using CUT's for landscaping and small excavation work for a lot of years and have seldom found anyplace where I needed a toothbar"</font color=blue>

I'm here in NE Indiana and, while the topsoil will grow about anything, it doesn't take much effort to find the clay beneath it. Without a toothbar, my FEL was just that-a loader and not much more. Now, I can actually use it to landscape a bit. Of course, some more HP would make a difference, too.

The best analogy I ever heard for working with vs. without a toothbar was this. Take some modeling clay or something similar and form it into a tight ball and hold it snugly on a table. Now take a spoon and force the edge in with your other hand. Now try the same thing with a fork and see how much less effort (HP) is needed.

As soon as I first read that I ordered my toothbar. I haven't regretted it since, either. I just took it off today so I could use it to move some snow. Once the snow goes the toothbar goes right back on.

 

[RedDog]

Kodiak,

<font color=purple> Thats a beautiful house that you have to. </font color=purple>
Thank you, /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

I would still think you could "back drag" with a toothbar. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

RedDog

 

[RedDog]

Gary,

<font color=purple> The best analogy I ever heard for working with vs. without a toothbar was this. Take some modeling clay or something similar and form it into a tight ball and hold it snugly on a table. Now take a spoon and force the edge in with your other hand. Now try the same thing with a fork and see how much less effort (HP) is needed </font color=purple>

Good analogy

RedDog

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi,

<font color=blue>I would still think you could "back drag" with a toothbar.</font color=blue>

You can, but the result is not a smooth as it would be without the teeth on the front of the bucket.

I have had good luck back dragging using the rear of the bucket, keeping the toothbar pointed upward slightly.

Sometimes I first back drag using the teeth to sort of level things out a bit, before dragging with the back of the bucket to smooth things out better.

For me the toothbar is one of my most appreciated "attachments." It makes the bottom lip of the bucket a lot stronger too...if you are going to push a dead/small tree down, for example. Also, the teeth can be used to hang a chain on for lifting something...if you don't have bucket hooks.

I /w3tcompact/icons/love.gif my tooth bar!

Came off real easy for winter too...figured teeth not needed for snow...

Bill in Pgh, PA

 

[Richard]

<font color=blue>if you are going to push a dead/small tree down, for example. Also, the teeth can be used to hang a chain on for lifting something...if you don't have bucket hooks.</font color=blue>

I don't have a toothbar, I have individual teeth that bolt on the bucket using 2 bolts per tooth. I periodically take the teeth off or put them back on, depending on what I'm doing...

If I'm moving dirt and am on latter stages of it, I'll take teeth off so that I can backdrag. Backdragging with the edge of bucket is only way I can get it relatively smooth. I tried it with the teeth on and it looked like I was getting ready to plant beans in the furrows that the teeth left behind. I've tried with the heel of the bucket and that leaves a bit to be desired. (what really leaves a bit desired is operator expertise /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif )

As far as tree pushing, I love having the teeth ON the bucket to help prevent the bucket sliding on the tree (side to side) as I push. The teeth will help act as a "corner", or box in the tree so that the primary force is the tree going forward, and not let the bucket slide off

I too, think the bucket digs much easier with the teeth on, I like them to plant into ground when I'm using backhoe, I will on occasion use them to hook chain (but I have a hook). In fact, just last week, I dragged an uprooted oak tree out of woods. Tree was probably 80 feet long/tall, though only maybe 20 inches in diamater for most of length. Given slope of hill I was on (my puckerer was starting to quiver /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif) when i got to tree, I didn't trust, slope, hook, other... soooooo, I chained tree, and wrapped the chain around my bucket twice rather than "hook" it onto the bucket. This way, as I traversed back down the slope in reverse, (and maybe hit the brakes) i didn't need to worry as much about the front end rearing up on me, nor "losing my load" (no pun intended with above mention of quivering puckerer /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif ). Yes, I'll fess up, the slope was steep enough that the front wheels were a little light in the tubes and I used my steering brakes to help. Took me 3 hours from start to finish to move this tree maybe 1/4 mile and most of that was figuring out how to traverse the hill.

 

[frank_f15]

seems like u got a lot of dirt to move, but also seems like u got the tractor to do it. looks like a very nice house, but i would do things right as i would not want to have that boss angry with me./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[RedDog]

Thanks Frank /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The dirt pile is gone, but I will scrape up more.

RedDog

 

[RedDog]

The front yard now. It is better, but still needs more, and I have plenty more to go. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

RedDog

 

[RedDog]

Another view of front yard.

RedDog