Mounting front tires while rims are still bolted to tractor ?.

[SARG]

Got a T1030 New Holland 4wd with 18x8.50 R4s on 8" wheels on the front. Going to upgrade the half worn 4 ply with some industrial 8 plys.
I'm being told that tractor tires are easier to change if the rim is left bolted onto the machine. I've never seen them done this way and YouTube has no examples.
What's the consensus here ?

 

[boomer1025]

Take them off and take them to a tire shop.

 

[woody]

Take them off and take them to a tire shop.

What he said, tire shop :thumbsup:

 

[SARG]

Take them off and take them to a tire shop.

Yes... That's option #2 after I fight with them for awhile.
I have several tire irons on the way and now have a gallon of the tire lube in queue. I suspect I'll be taking the 8" wheels off the machine because the wheels are painted and would prefer to "chew" up the back side that isn't seen.
If the beads don't pop with moderate persuasion I have a mechanical farm jack I can use.
Getting the 4 ply tires off is probably going to be a lot easier than putting the 8 ply tires on.

 

[CobyRupert]

Seems like it would be similar to taking them off with irons (i.e. without a machine), but tire is just vertical vs horizontal. Bonus is its firmly mounted.
Easy in that you don't have to take tire off, but harder than if you had a tire machine.
I think people would do this on a car or truck if the fenders weren't in the way.
:2cents:

 

[Zebrafive]

Yes... That's option #2 after I fight with them for awhile.
I have several tire irons on the way and now have a gallon of the tire lube in queue. I suspect I'll be taking the 8" wheels off the machine because the wheels are painted and would prefer to "chew" up the back side that isn't seen.
If the beads don't pop with moderate persuasion I have a mechanical farm jack I can use.
Getting the 4 ply tires off is probably going to be a lot easier than putting the 8 ply tires on.

Look at your wheels before deciding which side to use the irons on. On my 2030 JD's fronts (11L-15 tires) the wheel has a lot longer section you have to break the bead (towards the center of the wheel) on the back side (side opposite the valve stem).


I am guessing you will be not be saving much doing it your self verses having a shop do the swap. This is just for your time, not the tools and supplies you are buying. Also I do not thing R4s in an 8ply will be easy, compared to an R1 or R3 (turf) R4s have strong sidewalls.

 

[LouNY]

If you are going to do it yourself, you will not have to fight the tire and rim trying to move if it is still mounted to the tractor. Breaking the beads can be a chore, I have a mechanical screw type bead breaker that works well it's not super fast. You can also break the bead by just driving it back and forth while turning. Many tire shops will not have a machine capable of handling a tractor 18" rim and will use irons to dismount and mount. If you are going tubeless I would clean the beads after remounting and then apply bead sealer on inner and outer beads. They can be done it will be a sweat breaking job.

 

[AWSubie]

SARG - Make sure you video this event. I am anxious to see it on YouTube. Although you might want to mute the microphone so the recording is appropriate for all audiences!

 

[GLyford]

Depends on your tools, but it can be done (this guy has obviously done it a time or two):

 

[Gary Fowler]

I don't know what that tire service charges, but whatever it is, it would be worth the cost for me even for the front tire and now way would I try a rear tire.