Mounting a rear work light on the MT225E (XG3025), with questions

[LS Tractor Owner]

Light off:

View attachment 605983

Light on:

View attachment 605984

Ahhh, the links / attachments don't work....

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Thanks for all the info on the wiring. I might get a chance to pull the cover and look in there tomorrow. I'm also going to try to come up with a solution for the switches.... I'll let you know if I do...

 

[rbstern]

Ahhh, the links / attachments don't work....

Working here, so I'm not sure what's up.

 

[Scrambler82]

The work light positive wire from the fuse box is yellow with a red stripe. It's the same wire as the rear positive wire we're talking about. Not sure where the negative wire is grounded, but it doesn't really matter, for switch purposes. The fuse box leads have a big, automotive style connector; you can disconnect that and one other connector so the lower dash with the ignition switch can be removed entirely while you work. You can also unbolt the fuse box and the entire assembly, including the connector, comes out easily. I cut the yellow/red wire between the connector and the fuse box and wired my light switch leads there. Would have like to have done it further downstream of the connector, but those big, neat looms didn't have enough slack.

FYI, I didn't have any of the bullet/bayonet style connectors that matched the rear work light leads, so I cut those off and used traditional spade connectors, with heat shrink sheathing over it for short and moisture protection.

I keep pushing on the wiring... what gauge wire is this Yellow/Red Wire ?

What is the amperage draw of the lights you are putting or put on ?

Are you using a separate relay after the fuse box, and what size fuse is in that slot ?

A lot of questions that a lot of people toss aside but if you add lights that need more current than the circuit can provide there is only one result other than poor lighting... Fire, overheated wiring can result in only one thing melted sheathing and in turn a fire.

I will shut up now and get off the soap box but I can't stress enough proper wiring for the best lighting and safety !

Enjoy the new lighting !

Ltr

 

[rbstern]

I keep pushing on the wiring... what gauge wire is this Yellow/Red Wire ?

What is the amperage draw of the lights you are putting or put on ?

Are you using a separate relay after the fuse box, and what size fuse is in that slot ?

A lot of questions that a lot of people toss aside but if you add lights that need more current than the circuit can provide there is only one result other than poor lighting... Fire, overheated wiring can result in only one thing melted sheathing and in turn a fire.

I will shut up now and get off the soap box but I can't stress enough proper wiring for the best lighting and safety !

Enjoy the new lighting !

Ltr

I'm guessing the wire is 16ga. Fuse is 15A. I have a switch downstream of the fuse. My light is rated 3 amps at 12v, probably a bit less at the nominal voltage of the tractor's electrical system. That fuse would blow long before that wire could heat enough to be a safety issue. As designed.

It's a non-issue. I'm not an electrician, but I've spent enough time with VOMs, circuits and electrical text books to understand the difference between "no concern" and "could get dangerous".

 

[Scrambler82]

I'm guessing the wire is 16ga. Fuse is 15A. I have a switch downstream of the fuse. My light is rated 3 amps at 12v, probably a bit less at the nominal voltage of the tractor's electrical system. That fuse would blow long before that wire could heat enough to be a safety issue. As designed.

It's a non-issue. I'm not an electrician, but I've spent enough time with VOMs, circuits and electrical text books to understand the difference between "no concern" and "could get dangerous".

Ok on the Electrican thing.

16 gauge wire is rated for 10 amp and should not be on a 15 amp circuit... yes you are running a 3 amp light so you are good to go for this light. The dangerous thing is if the wire should shot out, and the wire gets hoot before the fuse hits the 15 amp level.

Good Luck with that !

 

[rbstern]

Ok on the Electrican thing.

16 gauge wire is rated for 10 amp and should not be on a 15 amp circuit... yes you are running a 3 amp light so you are good to go for this light. The dangerous thing is if the wire should shot out, and the wire gets hoot before the fuse hits the 15 amp level.

Good Luck with that !

There are many types of 16ga wire, not all are rated the same, and at the lengths involved here, it will handle additional amps without heating. Also, at the 15A fuse rating, the issue is voltage drop, not excessive heat. In the case of a short, the fuse will blow in a fraction of a second, long before the wire could heat to any kind of meaningful temp.

You're making a mountain out of molehill. It's a bit silly.