Most economical way to move tractor to dealer

   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer
  • Thread Starter
#91  
Surely someone with a 60 HP cab tractor knows someone with a trailer? ???

How does someone that needs a 60 HP tractor get by without a flatbed trailer anyway? Just seems like the kind of work that you'd be doing would require a trailer to pick up materials, haul implements and stuff, etc. You can find 10.4K and 14K GVWR equipment trailers pretty cheap on Marketplace if you set up a search alert and you're ready to jump on a good deal.

Just my opinion . . . no offense meant . . . but I'd buy a trailer.
I bought the tractor to clear land. Had it delivered to the property and it has lived there since. The dealer used to pick up and drop off for $200 (35 miles both ways). I've only needed to move it from the land for big repairs. I've started looking at trucks and trailers since we will be building within the next year and having that type of ability to move large equipment would be useful. Considering something big/powerful enough to haul a large mini excavator.
 
   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer
  • Thread Starter
#92  
I called a local tow company. $95 to load and $5/loaded mile. Turned out to be more than the dealer. Anyways, took a gamble and bought a $124 rigid hydraulic line since it looked like the original had some type of abrasion. No idea how you get an abrasion but it was there. I never removed the line before. I think it may have been there and the heat (from no coolant), from the hydraulic fluid, may have exposed the weakness. New line fixed the issue so I won't need to have it towed.....this time. Attached an image in case you are interested.
 

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   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer #93  
I called a local tow company. $95 to load and $5/loaded mile. Turned out to be more than the dealer. Anyways, took a gamble and bought a $124 rigid hydraulic line since it looked like the original had some type of abrasion. No idea how you get an abrasion but it was there. I never removed the line before. I think it may have been there and the heat (from no coolant), from the hydraulic fluid, may have exposed the weakness. New line fixed the issue so I won't need to have it towed.....this time. Attached an image in case you are interested.
Glad you got it fixed. Are you sure it wasn't just the o ring leaking? The ring pictured does look okay but on that type of seal it could just have been the ring. Just a wild thought/guess.
 
   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer
  • Thread Starter
#94  
Glad you got it fixed. Are you sure it wasn't just the o ring leaking? The ring pictured does look okay but on that type of seal it could just have been the ring. Just a wild thought/guess
The o-ring was replaced. It leaked the same way. I replaced the line and the o-ring and it is fine now. Maybe it was the o-ring but I just don't know. Maybe I should have swapped it out a second time.
 
   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer #95  
I think you'd be hard pressed to find any legitimate, insured outfit to do it for under $300 to the dealer and back home these days.

It stings a bit, but you're doing ok at that cost.
 
   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer #97  
It got comical. Yet I knew this man was quite serous. I’ll bet next time he will work it out by his self
 
   / Most economical way to move tractor to dealer
  • Thread Starter
#98  
I think you'd be hard pressed to find any legitimate, insured outfit to do it for under $300 to the dealer and back home these days.

It stings a bit, but you're doing ok at that cost.
Dealer would have charged $444. Nearest tow truck company was $500+
 

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