More land plane questions

[Code54]

I finally started putting together a 6' land plane (mostly out of extra metal we have around) and was wanting everyones thoughts and ideas?

It is 62" long and 6' wide. Thinking I would like to get around 12" high. (any thoughts)

Straight or angled blades ( I am leaning toward straight - easy to make highly adjustable )

How far below the side edges should the cutting blades extend down?

Roughly what angle should I slope the blade back at?

I currently only have one cutting blade - do I NEED two - instead of a second cutting edge I have seen an adj. piece of channel used? Does it work ok?

I am thinking the front blade will do the cutting and the second would do the spreading? I am also kicking around adding 6 rippers to the front - just in case

 

[CADplans]

All of your questions revolve around making the landplane as cheap as possible.
(shortest runners, un-angled blade, only one real cutting edge, etc,,,)

When I built, I looked at the project as doing EVERYTHING to make sure the landplane was only built once.
I have four angled cutting edges, adjustable height,,etc,,,

In other words,, I did not want to do it twice.

Do not save $20 today,, and 4 hours of construction,,
then end up with something that needs rebuilt after one season,,,

 

[Code54]

Well yes and no.... Trying to keep the cost down since I bought an aerator this year as well as a box blade already, but I'm not building it with 1/16" plate.

I keep reading a lot of people saying the angled blades really move very little material side to side so I just don't know if it is worth the hassle of making it angle. I can just not sure. I was planning on having the blade backer setup on slots so can adjust up or down about 1.5 inches (both sides)

My thought is this - our road sort of drops off on the side in places at a steep angle so there is not much to pull back. If I am trying I use the landscape rake or HD straight blade at a SHARP angle to pull it up and onto the road. Then I would land plane it.

As for the runner length I noticed that most are around 48-60" in length so I was sticking around the same. Plus I have some beams that are perfect already cut to 62" so I figured it would work great.

I am using 5/16 angle as my cross ties and the blades (1/2 thick) are being mounted on 6" wide 1/4" thick "C" channel - that will have the adjustment feature.

I did end up getting a second blade after writing this a little bit ago so I will run duel blades.

I am still thinking about having rippers on the front but not sure if I want to or not. I already have a box blade with rippers so it is not a major issue but may just do it "just in case."

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't think it makes much difference whether the blades are straight or angled. I would do which ever one makes you happy.

The 62" skids should work fine.

I would prefer to use the heavy angle to mount the grader blades and use the channel for your "cross ties".
The blades should be mounted at 45 degrees, perfect for the angle iron. Most use angle iron 4x4x 5/16 or up to 1/2".

 

[oosik]

I have a Land Pride GS2584. The two cutting blades are angled across at about 15 to 20 degrees but they do not move material horizontally, at all. The sides are 14.5" high but I've NEVER had material pile up that high - so, 12" should be fine. My unit does have scarifiers but if you have the same on another implement - it might be worth forgetting on your build.

My two "blades" are bolted to very heavy angle iron, are adjustable - up/down, side to side, front to back and are currently set at 3/4" below the skid shoes and level side to side and front to back.

I use this implement about 2X yearly on several sections of my mile long gravel driveway. It works like a dream and I can not think of anything I would change on it.

 

[Rustyiron]

It may be in my imagination, but I believe that angled blades cut the high spots off better
Now I'm only (mentally) comparing both "land plane's" that I have, to rear blades, box blades, etc. that I've used in the past. Maybe in in the back of my mind I'm thinking of trying to push a knife through a piece of meat vs. "sawing" through.
Go with 2 cutting edges, and show us pics!

 

[jwmorris]

I had been wanting one for years and had saved a few parts to build it also keeping an eye out on Craigslist to see if I could get one cheap. I was just about to order the cutting edges when I ran across a lightly used box blade on CL for under $300 and used it for my donor.

I cut the box portion away leaving this.

Made two side plates out of 3/16 and welded 2"X1/4" flat strap around the edges. Note the 1/2"X1" punched hole for blade adjustment.

Welded angle iron that the blades mount to to two more 3/16" plates with corresponding slots so the blades can be adjusted from 1/2" above the skids to 1.5" below.

Before punching the last set of slots I did account for the 3/8" thick replaceable skids on the bottom that bolt on.

My original intent was to not build one with rippers but had I thought about how quick and easy the "conversion" was going to be I would have started out with the plan.

 

[Code54]

Good points on using angle iron so the "angle" of the blade is already setup!

I was thinking 1" 1/4 below the skids for the blade but I think I will make that closer to my bottom adjustment and have 3/4" set right in the middle if you are finding that works good.

I like the idea of having the both on the same piece of metal for adjustment purposes. I was thinking of doing them separately for more adjustment but it looks like that maybe not needed?

Thanks for all the photos and ideas and please keep them coming!

 

[jenkinsph]

It may be in my imagination, but I believe that angled blades cut the high spots off better
Now I'm only (mentally) comparing both "land plane's" that I have, to rear blades, box blades, etc. that I've used in the past. Maybe in in the back of my mind I'm thinking of trying to push a knife through a piece of meat vs. "sawing" through.
Go with 2 cutting edges, and show us pics!

Yep, it is your imagination and there is no "sawing" action with a straight or angled blade in this scenario. Next time try cutting a chuck roast while holding the blade at this angle and push straight down.

The concept sounds good in arm chair discussions it just does not make any difference in a lpgs that I can tell. It would affect the results of pitching the blade forward and aft though as the trailing edge would be at a different height from the leading edge. With a straight blade the cut is uniform across the width of the plane as you roll it fore and aft.

 

[Egon]

It may be in my imagination, but I believe that angled blades cut the high spots off better
Now I'm only (mentally) comparing both "land plane's" that I have, to rear blades, box blades, etc. that I've used in the past. Maybe in in the back of my mind I'm thinking of trying to push a knife through a piece of meat vs. "sawing" through.
Go with 2 cutting edges, and show us pics!

You are right. Watch a roadgrader work. (Horizontal angle & verticle angle)

There was mention of scarifiers. This video shows some in use and the following blade design. The focus is not on the machine but the principles behind making it work and how some of the ideas could be used for building ones own equipment.