Modifying a rotary mower

[JWR]

I don't know how to point it out in the picture what might work?... so I'll do my best to describe my thought...

Is there any way you can swap where the lift pins are currently with the bolts directly below them, then take those bolts and place them where the lift pins are now? Basically switch locations. That'll definitely give you more lifting height with no cutting or grinding. I know my lift pins are low like that. Or am I way off on that idea?

No, I think you are on the right track. I'd certainly try that first before doing a lot more strenuous stuff. Also replace those long straps toward the rear of the hog with chain. Attach that chain so that you can pull pins and make the chain longer or shorter. I think that solves all of your issues. Just adjust as needed. Do be cautious to gingerly raise and lower it all -- looking at PTO shaft angles, u-joint clearances, etc. -- before roaring off into mowing with it.

 

[ptsg]

No, I think you are on the right track. I'd certainly try that first before doing a lot more strenuous stuff. Also replace those long straps toward the rear of the hog with chain. Attach that chain so that you can pull pins and make the chain longer or shorter. I think that solves all of your issues. Just adjust as needed. Do be cautious to gingerly raise and lower it all -- looking at PTO shaft angles, u-joint clearances, etc. -- before roaring off into mowing with it.

I second this.

And here is a picture of my brush mower that shows exactly what JWR said. All the brush mowers are setup this way on this side of the pond.

 

[beenthere]

I have a MF GC1715 and I just picked up a 60" King Kutter rotary mower. Got it pretty cheap @ $500. In very respectable/serviceable condition. Ran it awhile to cut some overgrown pasture grass and small saplings and it works fine. However, it is quite obviously not made for a tractor this size. I had to open the stabilizers all the way up to get the lift arms attached, and can only get it about 2" off the ground due to lifting range. Further, the flex link won't really work with my tractor. Again, machine not big enough.

I had a hard enough time getting this machine that I don't really want to sell it to buy something smaller unless I have to. I think I can just modify it but want to check.

I'd like to move the A-frame risers to the inside of that bottom mount bracket to make them narrower, drill holes lower on them so I have a lower mount point, and point the lift pins inward instead of out.

Since it would be narrower I'd remove the flexible top link point and trim the spacer sleeve in there with an angle grinder so the top mount point can get closer together. To give it flex I would replace the braces from the top link to the back with chains.

This seem acceptable? I've already got everything on hand.

From your description of your plan, looks like the right way to fix your rotary cutter so it will fit your tractor. I also use the chain from the top link to the back.
Adapted mine to the iMatch quick hitch.

 

[cglaser104]

Just marked this up a big to make it clear what modifications would need to be made.

 

[JWR]

Good advice/maked up picture. There is a serious note where cglaser said "watch." Movingthe lift pins won't change that hazard (??) Care with the toplink and chain lengths replacing the straps toward the back of the hog are essential. HEY! Wait a minute ! Those two 8" or so braces will have to be removed so the A-frame can pivot -- OR -- just use a chain replacing the top link rather than replacing the two long straps.

I'm begining to wonder if using the lower pin locations will make this "watch" hazard even worse when you raise th hog higher ?

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm begining to wonder if using the lower pin locations will make this "watch" hazard even worse when you raise th hog higher ?

If the top link is in the bottom hole on the tractor it should rotate the bush hog forward as it lifts. That could potentially lessen the risk of bending a pto shaft etc.

 

[cglaser104]

Good advice/maked up picture. There is a serious note where cglaser said "watch." Movingthe lift pins won't change that hazard (??) Care with the toplink and chain lengths replacing the straps toward the back of the hog are essential. HEY! Wait a minute ! Those two 8" or so braces will have to be removed so the A-frame can pivot -- OR -- just use a chain replacing the top link rather than replacing the two long straps.

I'm begining to wonder if using the lower pin locations will make this "watch" hazard even worse when you raise th hog higher ?

He's actually most of the way up already on that machines particular lift height