Mobile 1 0w-30

   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #11  
I use Mobil 1 0w30 in almost all my engines. Can't use it in our new VW TDI because it isn't 507 VW spec rated. There is a Mobil 1 ESP that is. Using 5w20 now in my Tacoma to try to suck out some more fuel economy from it, a 26 mpg gas hog.

You can use 0w30 in any engine that you're now using 5w30 in. It'll just be a tad lighter at startup BUT STILL HEAVIER THAN 30w @ OPERATING TEMPERATURE. It'll still be 30w at operating temperature, just like a 5w30, and can be used year round.

My VW Cabrio is quieter at startup now with 0w30. With 5w30, the hydraulic valve hammer on startup was louder.

I used 0w30 the last couple of oil changes in our 1983 240D before selling it to but the 2010 TDI. It got 1.4 mpg better mileage on 0w30 vs. 5w40 I'd been using in it.

Ralph
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #12  
Your 5w30 that "seems" thin @ 35 is STILL thicker than 30w oil at operating temps.

Look at it this way, straight 30w oil has a viscosity equal to 30w oil when warm. When it cools down, it gets VERY thick.

5w30 has exactally the same viscosity when warm as the straight 30w, and it still gets thicker when it cools down, BUT just not as much. It only gets as thich as a 5w oil would when cold.

Same for 0w30. Same weight as 30w when warm. And STILL gets thicker as it cools, but just not as much so as 5w30, 10w30, SAE30, ETC. THIS is what makes it a better oil. The differences in thickness doesnt change as much as other weights. It stays closer to the operating temp thickness even when cold. This allows the oil to circulate almost as if the engine was alread warm even when it is cold. It gets to the lifters and bearings quicker reducing start up wear. That is why I personally buy it, NOT for the fuel savings because IMO, that is NIL. You oil is cold only for a short duration. Once it heats up, there is absolutly NO difference between 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, etc, provided it is all fully synthetic of the same brand.
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #13  
With little searching, this is the best I can find

Viscosity Charts

If you notice, look only under the motor oil section. And for the following I am going to be refering to the kinematic viscosity scale on the left.

Notice that a straight 30w oil is 100 cold and 11 warm.

Now a 10w30, you would use the 10w # for the cold scale and the 30w for the warm. So it would flow ~25 cold, and still the 11 warm. Notice it STILL gets thinner, just not as much.

5w30 would be ~18-20 cold and still 11 warm. Again still gets thinner, but even less so than 10w30 because it already starts thinner than 10w30, but they still reach the same point of 11.

Now they dont list 0w but judging from the rest of the scale, it would probabally be about 15 or so cold, and still the 11 warm. You get the idea.

My only question would be, what are they going to call it if they finally invent an oil that does NOT thin at all. Maybe a -10w30???? -20w30???
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #14  
There's no value in switching from 5W-40 to 0W-40, since unless you are in alaska or the Yukon the engine will never get cold enough for the increased flow of the lower-rated oil. The only performance difference between the two oils is that one passed the test for cold performance at the temperature specified for 0W oil and the other didn't (thus was rated 5W).

So in application, unless the temperature when you start your Toyota is BELOW the temperature that the 5W oil is designed for, there's no effective difference between the oils.

What there is is a difference in the formulation--the 0W-40 has more viscosity index improvers (VII) or special polymers designed to keep the oil from thickening at low temperatures. VIIs are better today than when multi-viscosity oils were first formulated, but they still are inferior to "normal" oil molecules in shear resistance.
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #15  
So in application, unless the temperature when you start your Toyota is BELOW the temperature that the 5W oil is designed for, there's no effective difference between the oils.

But there is a difference. Ow30 will still be thinner than 5w30 and get to vital area quicker.

Just because it is "designed" to work down to a specified temp, doesn't mean that something cant be better.

Regular old petrolium oil is "designed" to work in modern vehichles. Does that mean there is no efective difference between it and synthetic oils??

10w30 oil is designed to work well below 0 degrees. But 5w30 works better. And 0w30 works even better yet.

Engines these days are designed with very tight tolerances and clearences that thicker oil doesnt get to as fast or as well. That is why you are seeing a lot of new stuff reccomend 5w20. Because the thicker oil just doesnt get to the tight areas. When cold, I want the oil as thin as possible. The thinner it is, the quicker it gets to the bearings, lifters, rockers, etc.
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #16  
I see temps anywhere from -20F in the winter to +105F in the summer. I run 0w30 or 40 in everything I own. It's the best of both worlds. It flows better when cold and protects when hot. No real gain in mpgs (0.25% gain) but much better cold start oil flow to critical parts. Even if it's 90F outside, that is considered a cold start for an engine.

No cons to using a 0Wxx oil. It costs the same.

DEWFPO
 
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   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #17  
I see temps anywhere from -20F in the winter to +105F in the summer. I run 0w30 or 40 in everything I own. It's the best of both worlds. It flows better when cold and protects when hot. No real gain in mpgs (0.25% gain) but much better cold start oil flow to critical parts. Even if it's 90F outside, that is considered a cold start for an engine.

No cons to using a 0Wxx oil. It costs the same.

DEWFPO

BINGO

Thats what I'm saying
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #18  
Like I said, the hydraulic valve hammer is almost gone when starting my VW Cabrio with 0w30. Still had a lot of hammer with 5w30. Oil is getting to the top end a lot faster with 0w30.

May switch it to 5w20 on it, too, based it it seeming to give better performance on my Tacoma's 4 cylinder engine. It'll be 0w20 if I can find it.

Ralph
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #19  
But i am already using Mobile 1, just not the 0w-30. It costs the same thing as what im using so if i could pick up 1 mpg it would be worth the swap as there is no cost difference.

In my case I went from standard dino oil to the Mobile 1 0W-30 and picked up the 1 MPG. If you are moving from Mobile 1 5W-30 to 0W-30 (both already synthetic) I doubt your mileage will change much if any.

Like others have stated, Walmart charges the same price for the jugs so I would try it for one oil change to see if there is any difference. It certainly will not hurt anything.
 
   / Mobile 1 0w-30 #20  
just to play devil's advocate here...

if 0w-whatever is a better all around choice than 5w or 10w, what is the conspiracy theory on why the manufacturers just don't use it in everything they sell? i drive a car with a manufacturer recommended oil of mobil-1 5w30. why not just spec 0w30 from the start? as some have said, you *may* see a slight mpg difference with a lighter multi-weight oil, and the manufacturers are always trying to aviod the gas guzzler penalties, so why not try to squeak a little free mpg out too?
 

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