MF3060 brakes troubleshooting

NorthernChilli · Jan 31, 2011

Hi all,

Anyone could share some ideas on how I could diagnose a brake problem on a MF 3060?

The left side brake works, but the right pedal has virtually zero resistance nor braking effect. The hose going from the cylinder to the rear differential housing do not show any evidence of leaks.

From what I can tell from the diagrams, it's a wet disk system.

What should I check, and what could cause the non-braking in one of the two brakes? Blown brake cylinder? Faulty brake o-ring somewhere in the differential casting? Air in the hose ?

Thanks a bunch,

Phil

DJ54 · Feb 5, 2011

I believe I would try bleeding that side, to see if the master cylinder is even pressurizing that side. The master cylinder may need rebuilt, or replaced.

NorthernChilli · Feb 5, 2011

Hi DJ,

How does someone go about bleeding an hydraulic wet brake ? I don't see any way to do so...

Thanks,
Phil

DJ54 · Feb 6, 2011

I checked the AGCOparts book exploded view of the brake mechanism. It shows a "banjo bolt" as they call it..., I call it a bleeder valve, near the axle housing. Simply bleed the system, as you would a car or truck. If your not getting fluid out of that bleeder valve, I'm guessing the master cylinder needs rebuilt, or replaced. If you do get fluid, then it's an internal problem.

If it will work for you, here in the link to the AGCOpartbook. Enter as a guest, then select your model. The next page will show a menu of all components, of your machine. Select the component, and it will show an exploded view of it.

AGCO Parts Books

NorthernChilli · Mar 22, 2011

So I finally managed to bleed the brake about a month ago which restored the braking power. The tractor then sat for about a month before I went to start it up yesterday, and 1 month later, the brake is back to the no effect square. Thus it seems that air manages to get in the line, but I can't see any leak nowhere.

Anyone got an idea of what could be the problem ?

Thanks again, Phil

banjodunn · Mar 22, 2011

G'day i would say a bad seal down on the axle not a bad job but axle off, ok if you have got a good workshop with some lifting equip

Jon

massey6480 · Apr 1, 2011

The piston seals go hard and wear oval id replace both sides while your doing. To bleed the brakes you will need to clamp off the lubrication line to the gearbox (runs from the distribution valve above the engine to the gearbox side plate) run the engine at fast idle and undo the bleed nipples one each side in the top of the axle and another in the trailer brake (if fitted) Do not press the brake pedals whilst the lube is clamped off!!

NorthernChilli · Apr 1, 2011

Do the cylinder have to go off completely to rebuild it or is it done without removing it ?

I gather that there is probably a c clamp that holds the piston and all in the cylinder that I must remove to get all out. Then I replace the seals with the ones in the rebuild kit and then, is there some grease or someting to put somewhere before putting all back in the piston?

And must I fill the cylinder with oil like we have to do with a car one before reinstalling it ?

Then I bleed the lines and everything is set ?

Also, If the clutch 'looses' it's effect when the engine is turned off (no effect, no resistance whatsoever when the engine is not running, and then gets back working after depressing it a few times when the engine runs), is it a symptom of a similar problem in the clutch cylinder ?

Thanks again,
Phil

banjodunn · Apr 2, 2011

G'day Phil what you will find when you remove the axle housings is not like a car at all, the brakes consist of a large disc ( like a clutch disc ) and a large piston ( from memory about 13-14" in dia ) with a sealing 'o' ring on the inside and outside. When you replace the sealing rings wipe over with some trans oil and wipe the surfaces that the seals work on with some trans oil and it should pop back in fairly easily. As for your clutch i will look into what system is in it when i get back to work and get back to you on it

Jon