MF 3 baler part needed

[Hiptfarms]

I am in desperate need of a cylinder spider for a MF 3 square baler. Any leads from anyone? (Its the part inside the pickup that the bars with the teeth attach to).

 

[Budweiser John]

All I can say is good luck. My #3 bailer was retired in 1983 and even back then parts were scarce as hens teeth.
It was as I recall, a pretty decent machine in it’s day.

B. John

 

[zzvyb6]

How many arms on it ? Maybe sub from another brand ( Both sides probably )?

 

[Hiptfarms]

Thanks, John. I just got it dialed in and trying really well, too. Then, bam! Catastrophic damage.

 

[Hiptfarms]

I believe there are four bars. I haven't taken it apart yet because I dont think I'm going to be able to find a replacement. But, I didn't think about subbing out a part from another manufacturer.....
I was hoping I could weld the original part back together but there are actually 2 chunks broken out. I'd first have to find them! Then, I'm not sure if the part is cast iron or forged?

 

[zzvyb6]

JD 14T is a 4 arm spider. Not sure if the cam diameter is the same, but if you found a junk 14T then I'm willing to bet the entire assembly is a drop in. Strippers etc. look exactly the same. There are a lot of 14T parts on ebay. You can contact the sellers to sell you a feeder deal and shoehorn it into your #3.

 

[Hiptfarms]

Thanks for that tip. And wouldn't you know it, I just sold my old 14t about four months ago. If it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.....

 

[Budweiser John]

Late breaking brain fart.
Could you have a local machine shop blessed with a CNC plasma cutter duplicate that part out of steel plate and then weld an approbate hub to slide over the center shaft? Probably could replace all the spiders so all is balanced.
My fuzzy recollection is the original spiders were cast iron.
B. John

 

[Hiptfarms]

I was afraid the part might be cast iron. It looks that way to my eye, but my eye isn't all that trained! I actually was able to find the two broken pieces a couple minutes ago. Dont know if welding or brazing is even worth the try. How expensive do you think a custom made part would be?

 

[zzvyb6]

I stitch welded a cast part used on my NH1012 bale wagon. First table lift gear. Nickel rod, a/c, no preheating. I bought the replacement but never installed it because the repaired gear still works just fine as is. By stitch welding I mean just touching the rod to both pieces for a moment or two, then moving to another location. This prevents a lot of heat buildup in the part which usually causes a neighboring crack. Don't be generous with the rod near fitment spots. Its VERY tough to grind off if its in the way of other meshing parts.

 

[Hiptfarms]

Thanks for the tip on how to weld the part. I jumped the gun thinking I had found both pieces that broke off. Unfortunately, I found one of the pieces that had broken into two. So I'm going to try to find the last piece tomorrow.
Meanwhile, a miracle occured... a replacement part has been found in Wisconsin. I made the purchase this evening and hope to have it by next weekend. A bit pricey- 194.00, but I consider myself to be a lucky girl to have found one at all.

 

[Hiptfarms]

One last question, should I be concerned that the baler lost timing with this type of failure? I'm inclined to think that it should be fine but wanted to know what you guys think.

Thanks again for all the input.

 

[zzvyb6]

One last question, should I be concerned that the baler lost timing with this type of failure? I'm inclined to think that it should be fine but wanted to know what you guys think.

Thanks again for all the input.

I would think the timing was unaffected, but what would concern me is what caused the pickup failure. There may be more to it than just a bad part. Object in the feeder drive, jammed shaft, frozen bearing, interference with some other part, etc.

Checking the timing is easy. I would empty the baler (twine and post-plunger case), blow it out with a leaf blower or compressed air nozzle, then roll it over very slowly by hand to watch all the baler sequences: clearances, knotter trip, needle entry, partial gear roll, tucker finger draw, bill hook rotation, cut-off knife arm swipe and needle retraction.

This is a 'feel good" exercise, it may not apply but 'recommended practise'.

 

[Hiptfarms]

Thanks. I'll do that. I believe that the problem came from me hitting a root from a cedar tree stump that I knew was there but couldn't see. I won't be taking any stupid chances like that again.