MF 1742 are you happy with it?

[Robbobshiskabob]

Hey everyone, coming up on 44 hours on this beast...only complaint I have about it is it's fel lifting capacity, I feel like I should be able to move a pallet of wood pellets, yet needed to take a good ten 20lb bags off, probably a few more... And still wasn't able to lift out of a truck bed, was able to slide it off and safely lower and move it to it's destination. Guessing roughly #1700-1800. Other than that it has plenty of power so far, could use some more weight too, spins tires quite easy, even with ballasted tires...think I'm half way or just past that to a first Regen, and to be honest I let her idle a lot, I know they say not to but I do and havent noticed any difference, got a old Deere 2010 with 50 hp and my Massey puts it to shame using the same rotary cutter, night and day difference, so much smoother, didn't get to use it much this winter, not enough snow, now if the water ever stops falling out of the sky long enough to where I won't get suck....again...would be great...what's everyone else's opions?

 

[metalbender]

Have 172 hrs on my 1742 cab tractor. Yup, they get stuck when you fall off the road snowblowing. Only glitch is the batt cca is too low for our climate, installed a battery blanket to keep it cozy. Same price as a 30 series JD. Loving it.

 

[jimmyhouser]

Hey everyone, coming up on 44 hours on this beast...only complaint I have about it is it's fel lifting capacity, I feel like I should be able to move a pallet of wood pellets, yet needed to take a good ten 20lb bags off, probably a few more... And still wasn't able to lift out of a truck bed, was able to slide it off and safely lower and move it to it's destination. Guessing roughly #1700-1800. Other than that it has plenty of power so far, could use some more weight too, spins tires quite easy, even with ballasted tires...think I'm half way or just past that to a first Regen, and to be honest I let her idle a lot, I know they say not to but I do and havent noticed any difference, got a old Deere 2010 with 50 hp and my Massey puts it to shame using the same rotary cutter, night and day difference, so much smoother, didn't get to use it much this winter, not enough snow, now if the water ever stops falling out of the sky long enough to where I won't get suck....again...would be great...what's everyone else's opions?View attachment 602978View attachment 602979View attachment 602980View attachment 602981View attachment 602986

I work at a dealership in South Carolina and haven't seen any trouble out of the 1700 premium at all, unless it was the customer's fault.

I like to install the seat switch time delay relay before they leave though. It buys you about 1/2 a second before the engine cuts off. When you do that a lot it sends an error code to the fuel pressure relief valve and calls for fuel system maintenance. Only someone with EDT can derestrict the motor after that. Go slow and don't bounce in the seat a lot if you don't have the timer relay.

We had a guy buy a tiller from Tractor Supply and he never cut the driveshaft. After he had it hooked up, he raised the tiller and shoved the PTO shaft into the rear end and hit the yellow button... It obliterated the whole housing and the ring and pinion and everything else in there.

I rebuilt it and haven't heard a peep outta the guy since. I take it that no news is usually good news.

 

[lazermule]

I work at a dealership in South Carolina and haven't seen any trouble out of the 1700 premium at all, unless it was the customer's fault.

I like to install the seat switch time delay relay before they leave though. It buys you about 1/2 a second before the engine cuts off. When you do that a lot it sends an error code to the fuel pressure relief valve and calls for fuel system maintenance. Only someone with EDT can derestrict the motor after that. Go slow and don't bounce in the seat a lot if you don't have the timer relay.

We had a guy buy a tiller from Tractor Supply and he never cut the driveshaft. After he had it hooked up, he raised the tiller and shoved the PTO shaft into the rear end and hit the yellow button... It obliterated the whole housing and the ring and pinion and everything else in there.

I rebuilt it and haven't heard a peep outta the guy since. I take it that no news is usually good news.

I have a 1736 Cab tractor (Very Similar) and all in all pretty happy with it. I don't like the seat safety and I should look into that delay. Apparently a guy can't bypass it then? I dislike when I'm trying to attach forks or something and I just position myself in my seat so I can see and the tractor shuts off, Other than that, I have 325 hrs on it and the only issues I have had have been the fuel gauge not working all the time and the coolant petcock leaking.

 

[Robbobshiskabob]

I did the simple thing of putting a zip tie on the seat sensor, now I can do whatever, sneak forward while standing, I know it's less safe but i always keep that in the back of my mind that is won't shut off now!

 

[LeTempt]

I have 50 hours on my 2018 MF 1742 hydro and I would say the tractor is just ok. I am a Safety Manager so safety is important to me, but I think some of the safety features on this tractor make it less safe. A hydro pedal in the neutral position should serve as a brake. I drilled a hole in the under seat operator presence switch and held it in the closed position with a piece of stainless steel safety wire. The dumbest safety feature on this tractor is that if you apply the brakes it causes the transmission to totally disengage. Of course it does not say anything about this in the operator's manual and the MF dealer came out and picked it up to check it out. So trying to hook up a 3 point hitch implement on a hill side is almost impossible. I think it would be a bad idea while going down a steep hill to apply any brake. Although the auto-throttle sound good, you cannot just idle the tractor and move it. When you step on either hydro pedal it will increase the throttle no matter what. I agree that the FEL lift capacity is a little disappointing. The buck on my tractor is VERY light duty. I am sure I will bend or break it at some point. I have never seen a bucket flex so much. Before I bought my JD 5065 I had a Kioti CK30HST and that bucket was a beast compared to this bucket. I did break the Kioti bucket at the intersection of the cutting edge and side of the bucket, but it was easily fixed with a few minutes of welder time. Probably my biggest disappointment is with the steering. If I am stationary and on any surface other than a smooth concrete floor I cannot turn the steering wheel. The regional MF maintenance lead come out and hooked up a pressure gauge to the steering hydraulic line and said it was within specs. Apparently they had an issue when the front wheels were mired in the mud and people would try to turn the steering wheel they had a tendency to break some hubs. To keep this from happening they reduced the hydraulic pressure to the steering. If I had it to do over again I would probably buy a JD instead. I am happy with my JD 5065 that now has just short of 600 hours.

Jeff

 

[metalbender]

Have a 1742 hst cab tractor with 220 hrs on it. Checks all the boxes as far as doing what's needed. Don't think I have really used the brake to stop. Haven't tried a power turn with one brake. Picks up full bucket of steel plant slag or gravel. Are you comparing a gear tractor to the hst as far as moving slowly? Have had the steering issue pop up a few times, once totally stuck in the ditch in the winter, another when having a heavy load high on the loader, putting a pallet in the barn loft. It works great for the chores around the acreage, bush hog, flail mower, snow blower, land plane, grapple, ft angle blade, eight ft tandem disc, 3 pt spike harrows and the ssqa ft forks. Recently aquired a ten ft 3 pt cultivator, haven't tried that out yet. Can always remove a couple of shanks if it's too much to pull. Happy, yes compared to the old Ford 3000. Bought it new, never drove it before purchase, just felt right.

 

[lpakiz]

Letempt,
I LOVE the fact that the brakes declutch the transmission AND that the motor responds to the hydro pedal.
Remember, the declutch is active only when BOTH Breakes are depressed. (When only one brake pedal is depressed, the other wheel will probably spin if hydro is applied.)
So, when using the FEL for repetitive tasks such as pushing and stacking snow, i use the hydro pedal as a foot throttle to speed up the hydraulics for raising and dumping, and the brakes (locked together) as a declutch. I learned to switch from the Forward pedal to the Reverse pedal as I apply the brakes to declutch at the pile. Then when the raise and dump is done, lower the RPM a little and release the brakes. Voila, you are backing up!
This is actually a technique i used when operating a 5 yard Caterpillar endloader, loading dump trucks. Hydraulics on the CAT 980 at idle are very slow, and at half throttle even, forward speed was too fast to approach the truck. This technique solved both problems without shifting to nuetral for every approach. Just be sure to idle down before releasing the brakes, or there will be unacceptable shock to the drive train.

I have experienced the drawback you mention when on a hill, especially when pulling a wagon or trailer and trying to start out on a steep uphill grade. That is a very real concern. If one brake wont hold the load, Im SOL, so i try never to put myself in that position. Worst case scenario, lock both brakes, get off and chock a couple of the wheels, then get on, release the brakes slowly, apply hydro and start the load. When backing uphill to hook up a three point implement, use one brake to hold the tractor. If one brake wont hold it, i would not unhook there again.

PS. I did have to plug in a 3000# gauge into one of the hydraulics couplers for the FEL and tweak the pressure up about 150 PSI to get it set at specs. Lifts better now, but dont over do it and break something on the loader. The PRV is under the seat, on the top, right side of the transmission. If i remember correctly, the slotted head of the screw faces the radiator, and it took a 7/8” wrench or socket to loosen the locknut. Dont go more than a quarter of a turn before deadheading the gauge to see max pressure.

 

[lpakiz]

And I also bypassed the seat occupancy switch by unplugging it and inserting a paper clip, appropriatly cut, into the open end of the plug. Then i taped it up to prevent a short and left it hang there, ready to use at a moments notice. That was soon after i got it, and its approaching 100 hours with no codes causing any issues yet.