MF 150 head removal

[crowbar032]

So I'm taking advantage of this warm December weather and time off work to have a valve job done and replacing a blown manifold gasket. I got far enough to get the head bolts out until the one under the thermostat housing. Anyone have ideas for getting it out without additional disassembly? I've had a miss in this tractor and couldn't find it, hopefully this works.

 

[crowbar032]

For some reason I can't see my attachment on mobile. Trying again.....

 

[DT86]

Can't help you there, but I can see your pics just fine.

 

[gengine]

You gotta remove that coolant "elbow" to get that bolt out. The gasket is only a couple bucks anyway. I think that is your thermostat housing, and while you have it taken apart, replace your thermostat. Im not too familiar with the 150's, but am with the 165's. Although maybe not necessary, your radiator hoses also. It isn't too expensive, and it keeps you from having to do it later. Follow the torque procedures also with a good torque wrench. My father in law was told give it an extra ten percent and you'll be good. He is currently doing the third head gasket in ~40 hours. When the book tells ya to tighten them down, run engine to temp., then re torque, do it. They last more than 40 hrs. that way.

 

[crowbar032]

You gotta remove that coolant "elbow" to get that bolt out. The gasket is only a couple bucks anyway. I think that is your thermostat housing, and while you have it taken apart, replace your thermostat. Im not too familiar with the 150's, but am with the 165's. Although maybe not necessary, your radiator hoses also. It isn't too expensive, and it keeps you from having to do it later. Follow the torque procedures also with a good torque wrench. My father in law was told give it an extra ten percent and you'll be good. He is currently doing the third head gasket in ~40 hours. When the book tells ya to tighten them down, run engine to temp., then re torque, do it. They last more than 40 hrs. that way.

I was afraid of that. Not so much worried about a $2 gasket as more parts/bolts/nuts to lose. Absolutely will follow torque specs. The only problem is that the torque wrench won't fit on the side of the head with the plugs, so there will be some "feel" to torquing it down. How many pounds to was going to be my next question/research. Thanks for the response.

 

[crowbar032]

Can't help you there, but I can see your pics just fine.

Its funny, but I see them both this morning. I blame Verizon for messing with me.

 

[The kid]

For some reason I can't see my attachment on mobile. Trying again..... <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=352310"/>

You might want to take a tap and die set and chase all those threads good both on the block and the bolts too to get a proper torque. Torque twice. Cold then Hot. Head bolts on a Perkins diesel or gas is 55-60 lbs. Continental is 70-75 lbs. Start somewhere in the middle bolts on your head and work in a clockwise or counter clockwise and tighten equally working around the head tightenting from the center outwards. Once torqued. Retorque again to make sure. Get it good and hot running and recheck the torque. -kid

 

[crowbar032]

Just got the head off, taking it to a local shop for a valve job. I see why everything has to come off now, that's how the coolant goes in...duh! I just remembered it looking different when I did the TO 35. On another note I would like opinions on replacing the manifold. One if the ports is pretty burnt out in my opinion.





View attachment 352462

 

[crowbar032]

You might want to take a tap and die set and chase all those threads good both on the block and the bolts too to get a proper torque. Torque twice. Cold then Hot. Head bolts on a Perkins diesel or gas is 55-60 lbs. Continental is 70-75 lbs. Start somewhere in the middle bolts on your head and work in a clockwise or counter clockwise and tighten equally working around the head tightenting from the center outwards. Once torqued. Retorque again to make sure. Get it good and hot running and recheck the torque. -kid

Yep, already got the tap and die ready to go. Thanks for the post.

 

[crowbar032]

As with most projects, this one is expanding. I will be replacing the manifold after discussions with my uncle, who is a pretty fair shade tree mechanic. The one exhause port is pretty degraded and the others are pitted. Since I've already got it apart, I'll just go ahead and replace it. The tractor has almost 2,800 hundred hours on it so hopefully if I do this right it will get 2,800 more before needing anything else. The tractor is a 1968 model and apparently Massey Ferguson was one of the first to use plastic for body panels. Over the years the plastic nose cone has deteriorated in the sun and been whacked just a few times so I'm replacing it as well. Luckily the replacements are made of metal and come primed ready for paint. To make everthing match I'll probably end up having the hood and fenders painted to match. That will then require new stickers.

 

[rsallen]

Hope the job takes care of your miss.

 

[crowbar032]

Hope the job takes care of your miss.

It better, otherwise I'm out of ideas. I've switched over to an electronic ignition, done a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, cap and button), and rebuild the carb and it still had a miss. One of the valves looked pretty black and carboned up when I got it off,so I'm cautiously optimistic this should finally fix the issue.

 

[crowbar032]

So I finally got the head back and spent last Saturday starting the reassembly process. I also got a replacement manifold due to extreme pitting of the original. That is where I ran into trouble. It is supposed to be direct replacement, but like most things of questionable Chinese origin, its adjust to fit. The tubes were too wide which wouldn't allow the nuts to be threaded onto the studs. I had to take a dremel and grind some high spots down. Then the heat shield. I don't know who the sadistic SOB was that put this over the outside top two studs, but if I ever find him...... I had to turn the wrench sideways and use a screwdriver in the box end for leverage. Torquing to proper spec with a torque wrench was impossible. I still need to adjust the valves, but ran out of time this weekend.

 

[The kid]

So I finally got the head back and spent last Saturday starting the reassembly process. I also got a replacement manifold due to extreme pitting of the original. That is where I ran into trouble. It is supposed to be direct replacement, but like most things of questionable Chinese origin, its adjust to fit. The tubes were too wide which wouldn't allow the nuts to be threaded onto the studs. I had to take a dremel and grind some high spots down. Then the heat shield. I don't know who the sadistic SOB was that put this over the outside top two studs, but if I ever find him...... I had to turn the wrench sideways and use a screwdriver in the box end for leverage. Torquing to proper spec with a torque wrench was impossible. I still need to adjust the valves, but ran out of time this weekend.

I have pictures on my Refurbish thread where I modified the heat shield and the manifold. They probably had special tools for just this proceedure. I ran into the same problem as you have. -kid