Oil & Fuel MF-135 Oil Pressure

[Ga old man]

I have a MF-135 with Z-145 continental gas engine. about a year ago the oil pressure dropped to zero but came back up when I restarted after checking the oil level which was normal. This summer I lost it completely so we're at the pull the pan point. However, this poor old tractor has some major engine issues and I wonder if I should sink the money into a complete overhaull of engine & the head. Blow by is terrible and leaking oil around head gasket and smokes like their is no tomorrow. Positive side, strong little tractor and I can get by with it on my little 62 acre farm, ranch, whatever you want to call it.

Around Washington Georgia, it's hard to find any good used tractors for under $5,000.00, and haven't seen any lately.

Question is rebuild oil pump & gear if required and keep cleaning plugs every 4 hours of operation or rebuild, or sell for parts and use money for downpayment on a newer one. Oh, retired and don't have any inclination of restoring. Years back, I found out my pockets were no where deep enough for tractor restoration.

Thanks for reply

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a MF-135 with Z-145 continental gas engine. about a year ago the oil pressure dropped to zero but came back up when I restarted after checking the oil level which was normal. This summer I lost it completely so we're at the pull the pan point. However, this poor old tractor has some major engine issues and I wonder if I should sink the money into a complete overhaull of engine & the head. Blow by is terrible and leaking oil around head gasket and smokes like their is no tomorrow. Positive side, strong little tractor and I can get by with it on my little 62 acre farm, ranch, whatever you want to call it.

Around Washington Georgia, it's hard to find any good used tractors for under $5,000.00, and haven't seen any lately.

Question is rebuild oil pump & gear if required and keep cleaning plugs every 4 hours of operation or rebuild, or sell for parts and use money for downpayment on a newer one. Oh, retired and don't have any inclination of restoring. Years back, I found out my pockets were no where deep enough for tractor restoration.

Thanks for reply

I wouldn't call rebuilding the engine on an otherwise good tractor, "restoration". I reserve that term for those machines that are brought to show room condition and are parade queens. If you can do the disaaemblyand reassembly work your self and all you need are rings and liners and bearings and a valve job on the head, you can probably do that engine for ~$1000 +/-.
Your oil presure problem my be as simple as a stuck open pressure relief valve on the lube system, a leaking oil pick up tube to the pump inlet or a worn pump(The Z series oil pumps are a pretty sorry design, though I'm not that familar with the Z145). What kind of oil pressures do you normally see with the engine at operating temperature at lo idle? If it's 15 psi or less than you'll need main bearings. Go to Yesterdays Tractors web sight and see what a rebuild kit costs. Figure another $300-$400 for a valve job and twenty bucks or so for shop manual to tell you how to assemble and reassemble the parts.
The other option is a remanufactured short block plus the valve job which will set you back $2G's+/-.

option 3 is sell the tractor while it's running as is and look for another tractor.

#4 is do nothing.

Your $'s, your choice!

 

[Ga old man]

Thanks for the insight, your ideas are appreciated. Yes I have the knowledge & the tools to get her apart, but no shop or work area other than ground. I borrowed an engine puller to pull the front wheel assy off to access oil pan and that's when I decided to quit. Didn't want to get the pan off and expose crank & rods to the weather. I do like the idea of stuck valve etc on pump which would explain sudden loss of oil pressure and earlier temporary loss. If weather stays halfway decent I'll pull pan next week. Rebuild kit for pump about $70.00 According to IT manual I have the Z-145 engine just has a larger displacement than the standard 4 cyl Continentals put in the MF-135.

One other thing, do you know if it takes a special press to remove the sleeves? Only experience I have there is 40 years ago we worked on Hercules diesels and those sleeves were a bear to remove.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

If the tractor is otherwise in good shape//ie. good hydraulics, tight steering, good clutch, etc., go ahead and rebuild the engine...the Z145 is a good strong long lasting unit..my '67 135 with that engine starts great without the choke in pretty much all weather...how many hours on your tractor...oh, you might think about changing out the water pump if you decide to pull it down...let us know what you do...BobG in VA

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks for the insight, your ideas are appreciated. Yes I have the knowledge & the tools to get her apart, but no shop or work area other than ground. I borrowed an engine puller to pull the front wheel assy off to access oil pan and that's when I decided to quit. Didn't want to get the pan off and expose crank & rods to the weather. I do like the idea of stuck valve etc on pump which would explain sudden loss of oil pressure and earlier temporary loss. If weather stays halfway decent I'll pull pan next week. Rebuild kit for pump about $70.00 According to IT manual I have the Z-145 engine just has a larger displacement than the standard 4 cyl Continentals put in the MF-135.

One other thing, do you know if it takes a special press to remove the sleeves? Only experience I have there is 40 years ago we worked on Hercules diesels and those sleeves were a bear to remove.

You'll need a tool that you can make yourself to get the sleeves out. You can also buy them but they're around $150 and you might be able to find a used one since once your done with the rebuild unless you go into rebuilding other engines, it won't be needed again.

 

[Ga old man]

It has basic hydraulics without power steering, and steering is as loose as a goose. Fairly new clutch and was cranking well even if it was only running on 3 cylinders (one was fouling the plug fast). Oh, did I mention the guy that replaced the clutch before I bought it blew out a baseball chunck size hole in clutch housing (real easy to inspect the pressure plate). Oh well only paid $900.00 for it but had to put new tires on front and been putting may pops I've salvaged on the rear.

Will let you know what I decide and thanks for the input.

 

[Ga old man]

Thanks Jerry, I guess it's a long threaded rod with round plate on bottom with od same as sleeve and bipod or tripod at top to go against the block. I don't have welder or cutting torch or even a press in my barn shop and $150.00 dosen't sound like a whole lot if I can find one. But it still has to be pressed back in so guess if I do the rebuild I'll take it to an engine shop. The other problem is if you get into it and the crank is bad your looking at another $600.00 or more.

 

[Ga old man]

OK, just googled puller and got ton of info. I think an inexpensive press might be the best bet for the money. (pushing sleeves out instead of pulling) Adapt it for removing & reinstalling new sleeves. Any problems you see with this idea?

Main thing I wanted to know is will the engine seperate from the clutch by just unbolting the block. IT manual a little fuzzy here, and it's been so many years since I removed an engine I really can't remember. Ain't that a hoot but it goes with the age.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks Jerry, I guess it's a long threaded rod with round plate on bottom with od same as sleeve and bipod or tripod at top to go against the block. I don't have welder or cutting torch or even a press in my barn shop and $150.00 dosen't sound like a whole lot if I can find one. But it still has to be pressed back in so guess if I do the rebuild I'll take it to an engine shop. The other problem is if you get into it and the crank is bad your looking at another $600.00 or more.

Gettin' 'em in is easier then gettin' 'em out! Lube them up and tap them in with a wooden block across the top.

I don't think a crank regrind is that expensive. I would think a good used crank can be found cheaper than that if the crank is out of limits.

 

[Jerry/MT]

OK, just googled puller and got ton of info. I think an inexpensive press might be the best bet for the money. (pushing sleeves out instead of pulling) Adapt it for removing & reinstalling new sleeves. Any problems you see with this idea?

Main thing I wanted to know is will the engine seperate from the clutch by just unbolting the block. IT manual a little fuzzy here, and it's been so many years since I removed an engine I really can't remember. Ain't that a hoot but it goes with the age.

There's a procedure in the shop manual that tells you how to split the engine off. I would suggest you find a shop manual for your machine and look at the proceedure. The IT manuals, in my opinion, are not detailed enough for the guys like you and I. Find a factory manual.