meyer truck snow blade hydraulics on tractor?

[prof fate]

Plan to make a snow blade setup for my loader and picked up for a song, an older used meyer snow plow off a truck - all of it, frame, lights, hyd pump, cylinders, etc.

Basic plan is to remove the truck mount, cut it up and put the necessary parts on a QA bracket, easy peasy.

However, I hadn't planned on finding one wth hydraulics on it.

It has 2 cylinders on the frame that go to the blade - each has ONE hose - so the seller told me it's a push/push setup - when fluid is sent to a cyl it pushes, and the other compresses.

SO..I'm thinking this would hook up like a two-hose cyl - one hose to left cyl, one to the right. Bingo, I'll have hyd angle on the blade.

I assume the 1700-1800 psi of the tractor won't be an issue?

I have two rear remotes (new tractor, never used) and plan to run a hose forward..dealer said the two remotes are 1 detent and 1 center. Which should I use? Will either do what I 'think' they should do?

I'm assuming center works like the loader valves - move it and release the handle recenters but the loader/cyl stay put (as long as the tractor runs)?

 

[Fallon]

A pair of opposed single acting cylinders gets plumbed in & works like a double acting cylinder. The rod ends of the cylinders need vents, or to be plumbed together.

Just hook up 1 cylinder to each port on your 3rd function up front or rear remote & things will work fine.

My plow has a crossover relief valve inline so it will angle the blade if I hit anything on a side that isnt already fully retracted.

 

[Fallon]

Oh, and either remote should work. The detented valve just locks into a direction & stays without holding the lever when you move it all the way. If you dont move it all the way, it works just like the other valve.

Detent operates basically the same as float on the loader, only its extending or retracting instead of floating.

 

[TractorNH]

As stated a zillion times already in posts on here, you don't want your plow rigid mounted to the quick-tach plate. A snowplow needs to be able to float with the contours of the ground like it does on a plow truck with a chain for a top attachment to lift it. If it's rigid mounted then you have to constantly adjust the height unless you have just a flat driveway. If you rely on the loader float function then you lose front wheel traction (and steering traction) because the weight of the loader itself is shifted to the blade instead of keeping it on the front wheels.

 

[prof fate]

Yeah, i read that recently and won't be a problem. I have the truck mount part - the pins and both sides of the steel they go through, and the chains.
Plan is to mount the truck part to the qa so all the loader does is mount it or do a complete lift off the ground. IN normal use the loader will come down till the blade contacts the ground and it will ride on it's own weight and the pins.

As stated a zillion times already in posts on here, you don't want your plow rigid mounted to the quick-tach plate. A snowplow needs to be able to float with the contours of the ground like it does on a plow truck with a chain for a top attachment to lift it. If it's rigid mounted then you have to constantly adjust the height unless you have just a flat driveway. If you rely on the loader float function then you lose front wheel traction (and steering traction) because the weight of the loader itself is shifted to the blade instead of keeping it on the front wheels.

 

[prof fate]

Thanks - and teh pictures are most helpful!

I need to get a couple of the skids too as the driveway is gravel.

A pair of opposed single acting cylinders gets plumbed in & works like a double acting cylinder. The rod ends of the cylinders need vents, or to be plumbed together.

Just hook up 1 cylinder to each port on your 3rd function up front or rear remote & things will work fine.

My plow has a crossover relief valve inline so it will angle the blade if I hit anything on a side that isnt already fully retracted.View attachment 563077View attachment 563078

 

[prof fate]

So...how thick you figure the plate needs to be?

They sell them from 3/16 to 1/2"...

Mount Plates - Skid Steer Attachments

 

[Fallon]

As stated a zillion times already in posts on here, you don't want your plow rigid mounted to the quick-tach plate. A snowplow needs to be able to float with the contours of the ground like it does on a plow truck with a chain for a top attachment to lift it. If it's rigid mounted then you have to constantly adjust the height unless you have just a flat driveway. If you rely on the loader float function then you lose front wheel traction (and steering traction) because the weight of the loader itself is shifted to the blade instead of keeping it on the front wheels.

I wont completely disagree, but that's not the whole truth.

I built my first plow from a small manual angle jeep plow, SSQA plate & 3pt Quick Hitch. It was pretty decent & had 15-20 degrees of side to side float & more vertical float than you could shake the loader at. It ran off with my old tractor.

I got a good deal on my new plow, enough to abandon the $100 truck plow i was planning to build in the bushes. As with most factory SSQA plows it's designed for a skid steer in a flat parking lot. It's a solid mount. When I got it I figured I'd likely end up putting a hinge between the SSQA plate & the rest of the plow frame. There wasnt a lot of snow last winter, but it did decent. Enough I'm not worrying about re-engineering float in yet this summer. It still might happen, but it's not urgent.

All things being equal, design it for some vertical & side to side float if you can. I've seen some people use a small pipe inside a big pipe that can bottom out or be pinned instead of a chain. That let's you get down pressure to scrape hard & clean off packed snow or ice if needed. I'm likely to try for something like that if I rebuild mine.

 

[TractorNH]

All things being equal, design it for some vertical & side to side float if you can. I've seen some people use a small pipe inside a big pipe that can bottom out or be pinned instead of a chain. That let's you get down pressure to scrape hard & clean off packed snow or ice if needed. I'm likely to try for something like that if I rebuild mine.View attachment 563098

I'm currently building mine and plan to do an underslung connection design similar to the one in the pic below that I found on TBN. This will also allow me to put stops so I can put down pressure if needed like you said.

 

[Fallon]

Get the whole unit as short as possible too. The further forward they hang the more leverage they have & the less steering you have. That's another advantage of the undersling design... The are shorter.