Metal Building insulation regrets/likes

[widefat]

Trying to decide what type of insulation to put in an already constructed metal building. I'm leaning towards the reflective bubble stuff.
What did you use, what would you have done differently, love it, hate it, disaster, or absolute joy?


Climate - Zone 7, central VA. Nerd stuff that matters.

 

[riptides]

Already constructed? Are you talking roof, walls, either/neither?

What is the building use?

That would make a determination on not only insulation but climate control too.

Trying to decide what type of insulation to put in an already constructed metal building. I'm leaning towards the reflective bubble stuff.
What did you use, what would you have done differently, love it, hate it, disaster, or absolute joy?


Climate - Zone 7, central VA. Nerd stuff that matters.

 

[3Ts]

I'm in zone 8 and I have about 3" of spray foam in my metal building - all walls and ceiling are covered. I love it! And I'd do it again. I also have 3/4" plywood on the interior up to 8' to mount stuff on and protect the exterior walls from impact from the inside.

If I had it to do over again, i'd get 5" of foam and think about air-conditioning & heating it.

I don't see that you have much of a choice in insulation since the building is already up. I recommend the spray foam but it is not a DIY operation because there are a lot of things that can go wrong in the process.

The only downside to the foam is if birds get into the barn sometimes they'll pick at it to make a spot to build a nest.

 

[drssg]

In my horse barn, the builder installed some sort of reflective bubble insulation on the underside of the roof. For me, it was worse than worthless.

The outside doors are almost always open on the barn, and the wind destroys the insulation. That means there are always sections of insulation hanging down and accomplishing nothing, aside from looking like crap. There is also an endless process of picking up sections of insulation as it breaks off. Removing it would also be quite a lot of work, and it's difficult to set up a ladder to access the underside of the roof in many places.

YMMV. If the insulation is protected from the wind, it might do better. Or perhaps there are better types of insulation.

 

[PILOON]

Most public storage lockers are metal construction.

They use a blanket style of insulation (about 1.5 " thick and well sealed) that seems to be very efficient but then they are also designed to have some circulating air.

I have a small shed that is un insulated and come spring the dripping condensation is almost as bad as in a rain storm. OK, there is probably 2 ft of snow on that shed roof.

My take is damp/humid air colliding with cold metal will result with dripping.
Anything that'll temper that collision will/should work.
OK, the ultimate is probably sprayed foam but U have to balance costs vs results.

If U live there, then nothing but the best, but for tractor storage what's a few drips now and then.

 

[ponytug]

The reflective bubble takes care of radiated heat, so if you have high ceilings and no fans, it can be beneficial. However, it is light weight, and doesn't do well when exposed to the vagaries of life, as @drssg noted. Personally, I wouldn't use it by itself; with a drop ceiling, yes, but by itself, no. I have seen folks use bird netting underneath it, but I think that it looks terrible, and now you have the netting to maintain.

In ag uses, I am more of a fan of sprayed foam, with a rodent barrier covering it.

All the best,

Peter

 

[KennyG]

I assume you are talking about a metal frame structure. Unless you can cover all the metal, it will short circuit your insulation. Spray is probably best, but I'm not sure how you do it without is looking ugly or adding structure inside.

 

[Drewintoledo]

Spray foam insulation will give your barn more rigidity.
here’s what I did on the exterior wall with closed cell spray foam.

the rest of the loft area was fluffy stuff.

oh, I also put 3” poly ridged board under the concrete in the loft area too

 

[hugo454]

spray foam it

 

[Ferpen]

60 x 40 metal building, not climate controlled.
1" of closed cell foam applied to all inside surfaces followed by white paint (Sherwin Williams Dryfall). They seal all openings, cracks, and crevices prior to applying the foam. Paint was done a day or two after the foam.

In addition to the insulation properties, the closed cell foam stiffens up the R panels. They now thud instead of clang when you thump them.

We don't get as much cold weather as you folks to the north, but we've been very happy with the result for this summer.

 

[RancherGuy]

Several years ago, but less than 10, I had a 100x100 metal barn building erected. 16' eaves. I bought some of that reflective bubble insulation, maybe 1/4" thick, in big rolls. Had the erection crew install it under the sheet metal roof, before adding the metal sheets. I wanted to reduce the radiant heat nature of the sun hitting the metal. It works and I'd do it again for the cost. The downsides are: (1) some of the tape between the roll edges has come loose, but it can be replaced where needed if I can get up there, and (2) finding leaks can be deceptive. I have twice had to review the roof to try to address leaks. I found screw holes w/o screws and after removing some screws found that not all screws had the neoprene washers for sealing. But that's the installation crew to blame.

Since yours is already up, I would not recommend the reflective bubble - lots of labor (at this point) and keeping it affixed may be extremely frustrating. I'd recommend spray by professionals.

 

[bindian]

In 2007, I roofed my barn and installed foil faced bubble insulation with a white underside. It took about 3-4 years and it started cracking and falling. I thought I installed it wrong, until I grabbed the left over roll I had in the put in the rafter area. It crumbled in my grasp. Turns out Mueller Metal warrantied it, but by the time I found this out, it was out of time. Each time I am up in the rafters, I knock all I can reach. It just crumbles to the floor.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Hay Dude]

Spray fPam is best, but doesn’t look real pretty after the years go by.

 

[widefat]

Thanks for the input. I am thinking spray foam for the roof underside, and batting over a radiant barrier for the sides. I need to get estimates and calc the delta twixt all foam vs. the combination of foam and batting. Would prefer all foam unfortunately the solution had to be budget driven.

 

[Gee Ray]

Aren't there two types of foam? Is one better then the other? And why?

 

[4570Man]

Aren't there two types of foam? Is one better then the other? And why?

Yes, closed cell and open cell. Closed cell is better and more expensive.

 

[Gee Ray]

Yes, closed cell and open cell. Closed cell is better and more expensive.

Could you give any details as to why the closed is better? I have a small house that needs to be insulated in the attic. The house has attic rafters , thus a room upstairs, and a tin roof. The Florida sun cooks this place.

Experience counts for a more honest opinion than what a salesman will tell me.

 

[ponytug]

Water goes through open cell foam and you have ugly things happening like rot, mold, and rust.

All the best,

Peter

 

[KennyG]

Also, air moves through open cell, significantly reducing the insulation rating.