Mechanical issue with truck brakes.

[Code54]

Today I noticed I get a squeak in the front wheel for the truck (2012 Ram 2500 diesel)- was fine going to the store, returning it was a constant squeal, like a brake indicator.
Truck has 28K on it (2012) and I just checked the brakes in Jan (1100 miles since then) and they had plenty of pad left.
I pulled the wheel when I got home and found passenger side front- basically in good shape and tons of pad left.
Drivers side , inside pad was fairly thick but rusted, outside pad was down to wear indicator and totally shot.

I figured I would pull it apart and order new pads and check the caliper. Soon as I pulled the pad I found my drivers side rotor was cracked.
The crack was on the side where the pad was worn to nothing.

I ordered two new rotors and new pads. Caliper I believe is fine and THINK the crack has been cutting a little off the brake pad and thus why only one side is worn.

Now the question is - what caused the crack? My GUESS, the truck sits a LOT. Sometime I drive it once every month or two. I was thinking the brakes seized to the rotor and thus when I hit the throttle I broke it loose cracking the rotor? I did notice what looked like a pad "imprint" on the rotor and thus why I was thinking this maybe the case. Any ideas/thoughts?

 

[kenmac]

Been working on my own vehicles for a long time, and I have Never seen that.
A bad casting from the mexico / china factory, or heat would be my guess

After looking at the third rotor pic. I rule out heat. the crack is all the way through. I say bad factory casting

 

[RNeumann]

Been working on my own vehicles for a long time, and I have Never seen that.
A bad casting from the mexico / china factory, or heat would be my guess

After looking at the third rotor pic. I rule out heat. the crack is all the way through. I say bad factory casting

Yep it’s just a factory flaw. I’ve seen lots of minor heat cracks- especially on the over the road type air brake drums but never a full crack. New pads and new rotors will get you another 28,000 miles......haha

 

[Code54]

LOL- hoping a little more than 28K but then again, it took 7 years to get my first 28k and i'm sure I will get sell it in a year or so for a new one so.....

Never saw anything like that myself - weird!!

 

[mrmikey]

Caliper seized and piston pushing rotor sideways enough to eventually break the rotor?. The cracked side of the rotor, that was the side that the pad was worn down, correct? .........Mike

 

[mikescruggs]

Almost looks like the wheel came off going down the road to cause that at,

I would replace the pads and rotors. Wire brush or preferably sandblast the caliper brackets where the metal clips contact it. Clean and grease the pins the caliper slides on. Yours may be tight or stuck from seeing the uneven wear on the pads too. Use a quality brake lube when reassembling.

I had a Ram 2500 Cummins (only traded to go to a dually). I would get about 55k miles on my Ram and changed the brakes twice before trading. I always found plenty of rotor left, I do on most vehicles I replace the brakes on. It's my belief that it is not worth the time or effort to put the rotors on a lathe...it can be a hit or miss. The pads can show a fair amount of material and then be gone. Maybe a failure of pad material, a warping of the pad, failure of caliper, or stone.

I have found vehicles which sit often have brakes which not fail, but prematurely go to ****. Rust is a big culprit. A suggestion I have made to several people with the truck which have exhaust brakes or tow/haul modes....use them. I changed the front brakes on my 2013 GMC 3500 dually last year at about 105k. I changed the rear brakes this year at 113k mi. I use my exhaust brake and tow/haul mode when going down hill or approaching stop signs. Most often I don't have to put my foot on the brakes until just about 20-25 mph.

Mike

 

[Scrambler82]

Sometimes the heat, casued by a worn out pads, can cause cracking, as stated it isn't always all the way through, but enough to cause a problem if left as is.
As far as Calipers go, when replacing the pads you need to push the Piston(s) back in the Housing, this allows the Piston and worn Seals to ride back on a new location where the wear may not have been the same... i.e. once you apply pressure to the caliper MAY leak.
When doing a Brake Job, and there has been damage or excessive wear, you need to replace the calipers, just to be on the safe side, over extended pistons, heat cracking in the piston/seal, that usually can not be readily be seen, are damage that will let the system fail once you apply enough pressure.

I have seen so many brake job done without replacing the necessary parts, more of a cost savings attempt than anything else, and the overall system fails shortly after the half-brake job is completed; and the parts get the blame. The mechanic or shall we say, "Backyard Mechanic", thinks they have done a good job but in the long run the system fails and the cost to replace all the parts they just did and then some is far more than just doing it right the first time.

It's just me but I always found, "Do It Right The First Time", pays off in the long run; replace the Calipers and get it over with !

 

[Code54]

It was the side with the thin pad. Odd thing is the caliper is moving freely and I can't find any sign of excessive heat. It also appeared the brakes were still working correctly as no pulling to one side, stopping distance was normal, etc.

I normally get a LOT of miles out of brake (My work RAM got traded at 90k with original pads for example) so this is odd. I always have my exhaust brake turned on (too bad RAM won't just leave you keep it on the ON position and not have to turn it one each time you start the truck, but anyway....)

I am positive the wheel didn't come off - it is my personal truck and I am the only one that drives it - wheel was tight and torqued to spec.

I do agree rust is an issue - it look worse in the photos that it really is but the pad backing plates rusted to about nothing and that made a mess on everything. I am going to sandblast the caliper brackets and repair them before reinstalling. That is a GOOD idea. I can also clean and grease everything else - sure can't hurt!!

Just really weird - never saw a rotor crack like this did. It is almost like a the crack is slightly raised - like a little scraper blade. - VERY rough and I can see how it would eat a pad in no time!

 

[westcliffe01]

I have done a LOT of brake jobs in the last few years. Many of the parts today are of very dubious quality. Did the brakes on my wifes Chevrolet Equinox. The originals were just worn. Replaced by her mechanic the first time, rotors warped within 3 months and vibrated like crazy. Mechanic could not find the parts receipt to warranty the rotors, so I bought the next paid, mid range cost + new pads. These warped again within another 3 months. This time I had the receipt and took them back and paid extra to get their premium disks and pads. That finally worked out.

My F250 has has total brake failure now 3x over. The original brakes lasted to about 85k miles with no problems, then suddenly failed completely - no brakes. Had to replace 1 front caliper that had failed, the pistons came out so far that one came out the bore and spilled all the brake fluid. No brake wear indicators of any kind on my truck. Replaced all 4 disks and pads and the 1 caliper. About 20k miles later, had a rear caliper fail the same way the front failed. There was no friction material left on both pads on that wheel. Not nearly enough miles to wear it off, I get the impression that the friction material shears off because of a bad bond. Opposite side looked nearly new, plenty of wear left on the pads. Another 10k miles later, had a front caliper fail like the first one, no friction material left, pistons came out. The day before it happened, the brakes had worked perfectly.

Did the brakes the first time on my wifes Z4. She complained that they squeaked. It turns out I can hardly hear the high pitched noise.... Threw the pads away and special ordered "organic" pads and they have been fine ever since. In the meantime I have found that it is pretty hard to find organic pads for most cars. Most of what is sold now is high in metal and they are sub par for wear and noise.

 

[kenmac]

LOL- hoping a little more than 28K but then again, it took 7 years to get my first 28k and i'm sure I will get sell it in a year or so for a new one so.....

Never saw anything like that myself - weird!!

gonna get you one with DEF and DPF ?
Would love to have a new one, but those two items make me stay away.