Mattock Handles. Why?

   / Mattock Handles. Why? #1  

N80

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Why are mattocks not fixed on their handles? In other words, why aren't they fitted like axe handles, pick handles and sledge hammer handles? The old mattock I have has two nails in the handle under the head to keep it from slipping down. Been that way since I was a child.

I'm asking because I recently got a mattock head from my father-in-law's garage. It is less than half the size of a normal mattock which is really cool. It has some surface rust but is otherwise in great shape. I'm going to clean it up and make a handle for it. I have a lathe.

The opening for the handle is round but slightly cone shaped like a normal mattock so that the handle is installed from the top and is supposed to snug down on the handle which is also slightly cone shaped.

I'm just wondering if I should install the handle that way or should I consider wedging it like an axe handle.

Any advice appreciated.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #2  
Think about the way that you are working it; driving it hard into a root or hard soil. If attached like an axe head it will be prone to coming off. The normal mattock handle is designed so that the more it's worked, the farther it will drive the head onto the handle.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #3  
Why are mattocks not fixed on their handles? In other words, why aren't they fitted like axe handles, pick handles and sledge hammer handles? The old mattock I have has two nails in the handle under the head to keep it from slipping down. Been that way since I was a child.

I'm asking because I recently got a mattock head from my father-in-law's garage. It is less than half the size of a normal mattock which is really cool. It has some surface rust but is otherwise in great shape. I'm going to clean it up and make a handle for it. I have a lathe.

The opening for the handle is round but slightly cone shaped like a normal mattock so that the handle is installed from the top and is supposed to snug down on the handle which is also slightly cone shaped.

I'm just wondering if I should install the handle that way or should I consider wedging it like an axe handle.

Any advice appreciated.
The handle is not fixed so the head can be taken off the mattock for sharpened. The head curves inward. Back in the day when large mill grinding stones were used for sharpening the head the handle would be in the way. Today most folks use a flat file or a angle girder to sharpen a mattock but the design of the mattock has not changed.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #4  
Plus a lot of picks and mattocks were packed on pack mules and took up less space when broken down. Military still breaks them down. Shovel axe and pick mattocks. Mattocks head is removed to save space.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Great info. Thanks guys.

But I have to say, it isn't very practical from a use standpoint. I've used them where the head slid down the handle at the top of the upstroke.

I have a newer one where the design is the same but there is a rubber collar around the top of the handle that fits into the head and holds the head in place. It works pretty well

With this little one I wonder if putting a wedge in the top of the handle would work. I don't see how it could hurt.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #6  
A tar paper nail works well to keep the head from sliding down. I agree though, it's a bit painful when the thing does slip.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #7  
Great info. Thanks guys.

But I have to say, it isn't very practical from a use standpoint. I've used them where the head slid down the handle at the top of the upstroke.

I have a newer one where the design is the same but there is a rubber collar around the top of the handle that fits into the head and holds the head in place. It works pretty well

With this little one I wonder if putting a wedge in the top of the handle would work. I don't see how it could hurt.
If it’s slipping down at the top of the stroke you’re lifting it up wasting energy not swinging and building energy.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
If it’s slipping down at the top of the stroke you’re lifting it up wasting energy not swinging and building energy.
You should not have to maintain a constant powered arch to keep the head of a tool from sliding down. THAT would be a waste of energy. The point being, it is not all that typical to be swinging a mattock from all the way over the shoulder into the ground. That's ideal, and probably most effective....but hardly realistic. At least not in my use. Rarely is a situation that free and clear in my experience.
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Here is a picture of the head. As you can see it is about 12" long. I'm assuming this is a little mattock and not some sort of wood working tool. The edges are not sharp like an adze or something like that. I will probably turn an 18" handle so it can be used with one or two hands. I think it will be handy in the truck tool box or my wife may be able to use it in the garden.

I do not have any hickory but I do have several freshly cut ash logs waiting to be cut on the saw mill. I think ash would work okay. I'll cut out a rough blank but I'm not sure how long the blank will need to dry before I put it on the lathe?

IMG_2385.jpg
 
   / Mattock Handles. Why? #10  
You should not have to maintain a constant powered arch to keep the head of a tool from sliding down. THAT would be a waste of energy. The point being, it is not all that typical to be swinging a mattock from all the way over the shoulder into the ground. That's ideal, and probably most effective....but hardly realistic. At least not in my use. Rarely is a situation that free and clear in my experience.
Way I was taught, can't say I've had one slip since I was a kid and handed a pick which I promptly had slip down on my small hands. I may be dumb, but I ain't stupid...I think:oops:

Anyway, chapter 43 here.
 

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