cdaigle430
Veteran Member
I use mine for snow removal as well, till wish for a bigger snowbucket-I know the tractor can handle three times as much snow as the bucket will allow.
Massey GC1710TLB - getting ready for winter
- Thread starter LevesqueOnline
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jc21, both Kubota's and M-F's SCUT blowers are made by the same company in Canada, RAD. I think they make blowers for others as well.
As far as their high price, maybe twofold:
1) To mount them, you need the "quick-hitch assembly" to hang on the front frame cross-member; this is a fairly heavy-duty piece of iron that includes a couple pillow-block bearings, a u-joint, the hydraulic lifting piston, and a short coupler shaft to go back to the mid-PTO -- and, of course, that mid-PTO driveshaft, too. (The quick-hitch assy. is the part that seems to be most brand-specific.)
2) The blower itself is also rather heavy-duty, though I think there's some room for improvement, but overall quite ruggedly put together. And remember, it's not made in China but North America, where labor costs are higher, presumably. Repair parts are no problem; I even have some Kubota parts (NOO!!) on mine.
The whole thing is steel; no composite on mine at least, save for the polyethylene rotation "bearing" under the chute and another similar sleeve bearing on the chute rotation worm drive. The one thing a few of us have done --and it made a huge difference on mine-- is to line the output chute with 1/8" ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene sheet. I also lined the circular impeller housing as well.
In the years I've had mine, it rarely slows down when blowing; the thing really has some power. Typical snow throwing distance is about 50' (no kidding!) for dry snow, 25'+ for wet stuff. By raising the blower up and attacking a high, snowplow-left, crusty old snowbank, I can go in slowly, remove the top layers, then lower the blower to clean it out right down to the ground. I've also been known to dive in at ground level until the blower's buried, then raise it and break the top layer(s) off so they fall to the ground, then back up and hit it again. It's really that strong.
Yeah, I've had a few bent pieces now & then by pushing it too hard or picking up an occasional ^%$# rock or two, but it's still going strong after 7 years.
Mine also came with the electric chute controls, and I like that a lot. Much slower than hydraulic, but better than the hand-crank system IMHO.
Ray, thanks for posting that pic; I knew you had one!
Walt (irvingj)
As far as their high price, maybe twofold:
1) To mount them, you need the "quick-hitch assembly" to hang on the front frame cross-member; this is a fairly heavy-duty piece of iron that includes a couple pillow-block bearings, a u-joint, the hydraulic lifting piston, and a short coupler shaft to go back to the mid-PTO -- and, of course, that mid-PTO driveshaft, too. (The quick-hitch assy. is the part that seems to be most brand-specific.)
2) The blower itself is also rather heavy-duty, though I think there's some room for improvement, but overall quite ruggedly put together. And remember, it's not made in China but North America, where labor costs are higher, presumably. Repair parts are no problem; I even have some Kubota parts (NOO!!) on mine.
The whole thing is steel; no composite on mine at least, save for the polyethylene rotation "bearing" under the chute and another similar sleeve bearing on the chute rotation worm drive. The one thing a few of us have done --and it made a huge difference on mine-- is to line the output chute with 1/8" ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene sheet. I also lined the circular impeller housing as well.
In the years I've had mine, it rarely slows down when blowing; the thing really has some power. Typical snow throwing distance is about 50' (no kidding!) for dry snow, 25'+ for wet stuff. By raising the blower up and attacking a high, snowplow-left, crusty old snowbank, I can go in slowly, remove the top layers, then lower the blower to clean it out right down to the ground. I've also been known to dive in at ground level until the blower's buried, then raise it and break the top layer(s) off so they fall to the ground, then back up and hit it again. It's really that strong.
Yeah, I've had a few bent pieces now & then by pushing it too hard or picking up an occasional ^%$# rock or two, but it's still going strong after 7 years.
Mine also came with the electric chute controls, and I like that a lot. Much slower than hydraulic, but better than the hand-crank system IMHO.
Ray, thanks for posting that pic; I knew you had one!
Walt (irvingj)
AxleHub
Elite Member
One of the things I developed a real fondness for this summer, is a spray polymer I used on the bottom side of my mmm deck. Its a super slick coating thst keeps grass from sticking tothe under side or on the blades. Worked really well.
So I started thinking maybevit would also work on the inside of snowblower chutes.
mavrik1
New member
ray66v....thanks for the picture...
mavrik1
New member
axlehub....that is a great idea, any idea of the weight of the massey blower?
AxleHub
Elite Member
I'm not familiar with the weight. In addition I believe there are a couple after market front blowers that can be used also.
I'll make an educated guess… I'd say the quick-hitch assembly is around 60-70 lbs (I can lift it up easily enough but wouldn't want to carry it very far), and the blower itself more like 150-200 lbs, perhaps a bit more.
Many thanks Walt (irvingj) for all the info on the snowblower and the tip on using the polyethylene sheet. In the course of doing a little tire kickin' I did get a look at Kubota's version and it seems like a serious piece of equipment. I have a 44" blower for my JD X320- it worked great when new but after eight years (and a -3/4" crushed stone driveway) it's a lot less effective now. JD uses a composite (plastic) second stage impeller and one fairly common complaint is that they don't wear well. On some of their models they offer a steel replacement but for mine they don't. I'm going to eke out one more season on the OEM one ... a new one is $120+.
Tool puts
New member
I went with front and rear chains , put a linier actuator on for up,down and a power window motor on for left , right rotation on my blower , also welded on a set of plow skids on the back blade for the slushy stuff this winter , hope it works good this winter
jc21, you might want to take a look at the gap between the impeller and its circular housing; if that gap gets much more than around 1/8", it really lowers the efficiency of the blower. That was one of the biggest issues with mine (I also used to have a crushed-rock driveway), which is why I was really keen to put that 1/8" UHMWPE sheet in there. Made a HUGE difference.
There's also a guy who sells "kits" to add rubber tips to the impeller blades, and from what I gather, they also work very well.
Tool puts-- that's exactly the way the electric controls are set up from the factory on the blower: a linear actuator for chute deflector, and a small --probably a windshield wiper motor-- for the rotation.
There's also a guy who sells "kits" to add rubber tips to the impeller blades, and from what I gather, they also work very well.
Tool puts-- that's exactly the way the electric controls are set up from the factory on the blower: a linear actuator for chute deflector, and a small --probably a windshield wiper motor-- for the rotation.
