Massey GC1700 series maintenance parts compatibility choices . . filters, fluids, etc

[windcatcher]

There is one point that needs to be made here: many times when the oil/hydraulic filters are installed at the factory, *someone* forgot to feed the gorilla properly.

In that, I mean, the filters are put on either without any lubrication or they are put on with so much force many people cannot get the first filters off without crushing the original filter badly.

I've seen perfectly good strap wrenches mutilated trying to get the first filter off. Sometimes the filter has to be impaled with screwdriver to try and twist it off.

 

[AxleHub]

Thanks for your initial responses. Tools is not a barrier to doing the work myself lol. And changing a fuel filter is no sweat. However when it comes to differentiating hydraulic fluid (rear end) from transmission fluid (front axle ??), from gear oil (mmm gear box) . . . I'm a little skittish on choices of fluids and getting full drainage and not overfilling.

In having read some other threads on tbn . . there seem to be some contradictions on fluid choices . . . and thst could be because of tractor brand or tractor size.

I'll certainly entertain any and all suggestions here. I'm not a stranger to msnuals but I also understand that there are technics to preventive maintenance. As an example . . the front axle has no sight glass so uou access by undoing a bolt head and looking inside. But what level is a good level? Or how does one tell the clean or dirty factor on yhe fluid? Or is there a trick to get complete drainage of the hydraulic or transmission or gear oils?


My point is . . I've always been good at diagnosing mechanical and technical issues . . To recognize sounds, straines or tightness in physical or mechanical situations etc.. So if I can know how to use those skills with my tractor . . , then I will and do in some cases already

 

[Ooklaa]

Ray, good advice on looking things over. I will start a thorough inspection on my new Massey.

Ooklaa, I'm closing in on you! House meter shows 9 hours of use-- mostly digging on the ancient junipers.

Lol i have a ton if work to do in my back yard. Old man winter should be coming this weekend tho so im not gonna start anythijg now.

 

[ray66v]

If someone wants to obsess over which oils to use, how level you get the tractor, what is the exact viewing angle for the sight glass, how to get the last drop out, inserting magnets to remove metal chips, etc., this is the perfect place to do it.

I can tell you, that in most cases, none of it matters all that much.

It doesn't matter if you get all the old hydraulic oil out, especially on the first change, because the old oil is perfectly good. It doesn't matter if the tractor is perfectly level, as long as it's close. It doesn't matter if you fill the transmission to the bottom, or the top of the sight glass. There is 4.5 gallons in there, you're talking ounces. It may not matter if you use gear oil, or hydraulic oil in the front differential, both seem to work fine. I probably doesn't matter if you use synthetic oil, or regular hydraulic oil, unless you live where it's ridiculously cold. If you do, you should move.

We all do have preferences. But, they all seem to be working.

Most people do their own routine maintenance here, and I doubt many have ever gotten everything perfect. Almost every GC owner has had little, to no experience, with any of it. Yet, no one has ever had an issue from doing it. Because, it's not that big a deal.

I promise you, the dealer isn't going to obsess over it either. But, if you feel better having them do it. That certainly is an option.

Some may insist on learning the above the hard way. I understand that. Most of us did. But, you can save yourself a lot of trouble, by not worrying about it excessively.

The reason the manual is so ambiguous sometimes is, because it's not critical.

If the oil level in the front axle was critical, for example, they wouldn't tell you fill it, until it's "half full". Sure, if you put way too much in there, it's going to cause issues. Don't do that then.

You can always measure what you take out, and replace that amount.

 

[AxleHub]

If the oil level in the front axle was critical, for example, they wouldn't tell you fill it, until it's "half full". Sure, if you put way too much in there, it's going to cause issues. Don't do that then.

Ray . . I appreciate your response. Your style reminds me of a number of my friends . . .that "crusty old fart with a hidden smile on his face". While no one would consider me **** they might say I tend to overbuild a bit . . . typical of tool and die makers, machinists, and industrial arts teachers . . . all part of my training. I never met a 2 x 2 board that shouldn't be a 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 lol.

And the clip I pulled from your post is the type of thing that makes me smile as I think of some past friends now gone who would have said the same old fart comment. But it used to tick them off no end when they had to ask me to fix something for them lol.

But I love the concept . . If you don't want to make a mistake . . . then don't do it lol. There is something charming and interesting about crusty old farts . . at least by age . . I'm getting closer to the definition