Mapp gas

[milt27]

Have a large galvanized animal watering trough that has a couple of leaks along the seam on the bottom. Was wondering if I could repair using Mapp gas to silver solder or braze. Any suggestions?

Milt

 

[sweettractors]

Probably, but wear a respirator. Those fumes from galvanized are toxic. Ken Sweet

 

[gauthier]

Might be just as well to use something like jb weld,,but its got to be clean however you do it,,and snorting a little galvinized,ain't going to kill you,,won't do you any real good as far as I know either,but a little won't hurt you,just be aware that the dust or smoke off it is not good to breath.

 

[ray66v]

You will have to clean all the galvanizing off the area, to weld, solder, or braze it.

Of those, my preference would be to braze it.

There are some really good new sealers.

I fixed a cracked toilet tank with this product:

Geocel Corporation - Manufacturer of Quality Sealants, Caulks, and Adhesives Designed for Tough Construction and Repair Applications.

It worked so well, years later, when I busted the tank with a sledge, it still held were the crack was.

 

[Willl]

Is the seam starting to rot out ?, if so, flame/high heat will just make more of it disappear.

If it is rot/rust, maybe a sealer ?, or liner ?

 

[yomax4]

Tough Gig trying to Braze with anything but acetylene. There are some lower temp solders out there like JW Harris Gal-Vis. Its a heat to 400 degrees rub on galvanising rod. It goes on fairly thick and can be used for what you are doing but JB Weld sounds like ticket on this application.

 

[Soundguy]

You will have to clean all the galvanizing off the area, to weld, solder, or braze it. .

sorry.. that's pure proccessed male cow food.

I ROUTINELY solder galzinized animal troughs using a regular plumbers propane torch, silver solder and paste flux.. all from those lil 15$ walmart kits.

find the hole, lightly sand around it with some fine emory paper to clean any grime from it. Use a tin tab ( roofing ). flux up the tab with it laying on the ground.. heat it.. tin it with the silver solder. do the same with the area around the hole. flux is your friend.. the more the better.. tin that area up. the silver solder EASILLY wets to galvanized metal.. in fact I find it way easier to tin galvanized metal than plain steel or cast iron.

once both parts are tinned, use needle nose to hold the tab up and work it like sweating a pipe...

3x easier than brazing..

propane torch ain't atomizing the zin like a welder is.. plus zinc would be a contaminate in a weld..

strips of galvanized roofing tin work as good patches to get around those seams.

I always have horses or cows kicking or goring a tank.. have hit a couple with the batwing too



soundguy

 

[ray66v]

sorry.. that's pure proccessed male cow food.

I ROUTINELY solder galzinized animal troughs using a regular plumbers propane torch, silver solder and paste flux.. all from those lil 15$ walmart kits.

find the hole, lightly sand around it with some fine emory paper to clean any grime from it. Use a tin tab ( roofing ). flux up the tab with it laying on the ground.. heat it.. tin it with the silver solder. do the same with the area around the hole. flux is your friend.. the more the better.. tin that area up. the silver solder EASILLY wets to galvanized metal.. in fact I find it way easier to tin galvanized metal than plain steel or cast iron.

once both parts are tinned, use needle nose to hold the tab up and work it like sweating a pipe...

3x easier than brazing..

propane torch ain't atomizing the zin like a welder is.. plus zinc would be a contaminate in a weld..

strips of galvanized roofing tin work as good patches to get around those seams.

I always have horses or cows kicking or goring a tank.. have hit a couple with the batwing too



soundguy

:laughing: Your sorry?

I swear, I could post that the sky is blue on here, and someone will disagree.

Because you have been able to avoid removing it, does not mean it will work in all cases.

Obviously, the flux your using is able to etch your galvanizing enough to get adhesion.

Many times when you solder galvanized, you often have to use very strong acids, to get enough etching.

Since I have the proper tools, it's easier to remove it.

Tell you what, you do it your way, & I'll do it mine. :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

water based paste flux like most plumbers use does the trick just fine.. common.. easy to get.. and works. I've yet to have a cold solder or a joint fail on a solder to galvanized metal patch.. including galvanized roof tin. Have had plenty of luck even on aluminum.. though that one is tricky..went to a different alloy type of solder on that..

I merely posted that because you stated:

[quote[You will have to clean all the galvanizing off the area, to weld, solder, or braze it[/quote]
the way the statement was made lead one to believe there would be no 'possibility' of doing it any other way.

For the record.. I WOULD clean all of it off to braze it.. and for sure double clean it before wedling it.. solder though? naaa.. extra uneeded work...

soundguy

 

[ray66v]

water based paste flux like most plumbers use does the trick just fine.. common.. easy to get.. and works. I've yet to have a cold solder or a joint fail on a solder to galvanized metal patch.. including galvanized roof tin. Have had plenty of luck even on aluminum.. though that one is tricky..went to a different alloy type of solder on that..

undguy

If your concerned about extra work, it's interesting your making repairs to galvanized metal with solder, in the first place.

My point was directed to those who were concerned about the fumes generated using a torch on galvanized steel. And was that they are not an issue, if the galvanize is removed. Which in my opinion, is the proper way to do the job. Unless you like trial and error.

Here's a disclaimer for you:

REMOVING THE GALVANIZE IS JUST ONE WAY TO REPAIR THIS, THERE ARE SHORT CUTS AROUND DOING SO, THAT MAY WORK.

This is not needed to keep anyone from getting confused, (no one ever listen's to me anyway), just an attempt to eliminate debate.

I now know all those who use hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, muratic acid, etc, to eat the galvanize up, (read the thousands of hits you will get in a google search of this topic), are all wrong, (my self included), and it is all unnecessary, if we just use Wal Mart flux.

Thanks for the help.