Making Copper Pipe into Overhead Sprinkler

[sixdogs]

Great thread with good ideas for a start.Don't forget in-line filters to catch grit that can disable the results. We did drip irrigation and it was surprising how small of a piece of grit can screw things up.
Another good source for info would be a fire dept in a fire prone area that likely has dealt with this before. They may not know the answers but they could point you in a direction.

 

[NSPbiker]

I added sprinkler protection to "vulnerable" parts of my shop, mainly over the workbenches and my main work area which has a 9' ceiling. I'm in the fire alarm industry so have some basic knowledge of fire sprinklers. I used 1/2" copper (it was way cheaper 15 years ago) and installed proper fire sprinkler heads. These have design dispersion and are available at varying temperature ratings. I keep the water line charged for fast response to a fire and I also have a full-protection detection system. If you do this be sure to put a drain valve in the lowest point of the piping. I'm subject to freeze in winter so I drain it in cold times.
Here's one source for heads: https://www.amazon.com/Approved-TUN...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115499067&psc=1

 

[2manyrocks]

I've wondered whether it might be better to install the sprinkler lines in the ground, but aim the heads up at the walls and eves insofar as freeze protection is concerned?

 

[rScotty]

Interesting. So if these are standard - or as you say, "proper fire sprinkler heads"...there is probably information on coverage, pressure, flow rate and such. Do you have any tech specs you prefer?
I'm suprised that half inch copper is large enough, but that just shows how much I have to learn.

I'm thinking that it would make more sense for what I am doing on our property is not to try to put a fire out, but to simply making it more difficult for windblown embers to ignite a larger fire.
rScotty

 

[Gord Baker]

I am going to some effort - it seems worthwhile....and of course we all need projects.

My original idea was to run the pipe right along the peak - use sprinklers and let it just drain down the side of the roof and eaves. However, that means a lot of up high work for my aging old body. This all started when I did some tests years ago on the top grade of "fire resistant" asphalt shingles and was sadly disappointed. So this year when the time came for a new covering I put on steel. Now the roof covering itself is protected pretty well and I blocked in the soffits with concrete boad. That left the barn sides & large doors which are gradually becoming covered & trimmed with cement board.

The total length will only be about 150 feet. It's a smallish barn. I like the de-burrng idea to make a well to shape the spray. Wonder if that will work?
Next task will be to make up a section of pipe and play with the various well and whatever shapes. See if it can be made to spray.

The pop-in sprayers were my first choice, and if I can find some that seem decent quality then I'm going to make up a test section for that as well.

I hear you on the 1/2 " pipe not being large enough volume for the entire run. Good point. I'll put a Y manifold so I feed two lengths - and upsize the pipe too.

Thanks for all the good ideas,
rScotty

Consider 'Punching" the holes with a small screwdriver type bit. Aligned with the axis of the pipe they might spray a 'band' instead of a cone to wet the sides of the structure.

 

[MossRoad]

I've wondered whether it might be better to install the sprinkler lines in the ground, but aim the heads up at the walls and eves insofar as freeze protection is concerned?

If he has it overhead, it should gravity drain and freezing won't be a problem. You can put an automatic drain on the lowest point of a system just to be sure, like sprinkler systems.

Underground sprinklers have to be drained and/or blown out each fall in areas where freezing occurs, or ice can form in the lines and burst them.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I am a retired firefighter who was the Fire Marshal for a large department.

I applaud your efforts, but application of water should be the last step in keeping your place safe. First and foremost is that if you are concerned about a grass fire being the ignition source you need to be proactive about keeping a clear space around your structures so the fuel is not close enough to ignite them. Even 20 feet of clear space will greatly lower the chances of fire spread. Look here for more tips: Wildfire preparedness tips

If you do want to add protection my suggestion would be to use what are known as "deluge" heads. These are open fire sprinkler heads that disperse a chosen water pattern. In your case you can choose a head that deflects the spray pattern down to wet the walls.

When water is sent to the supply pipes all of the heads will flow, kind of like what Hollywood typically pretends all fire sprinklers do. If you use regular heat activated heads the chances are that they will never activate since you have no way to trap the heat needed to open them.

There are many ways to activate the heads, but most are pretty expensive for this type of installation since you cannot use heat as the trigger. Things like ultra violet flame detection exist for situations like this, but they are way too expensive for what fire sprinkler professionals consider to be a low value risk. Frankly I'm stumped about how to open the water supply valve unless you manually do it. The obvious down side to that is you may not be home when protection is needed.

What may be an even better way of protecting your property is to install a fire detection system in the buildings. Smoke detectors will not work, but heat detectors will. You can install most systems for less than $1K and have them monitored for around 25 bucks a month. Plus burglar protection will be included as well. Although remember a fire will take everything a thief only some things.

 

[eddieirvine]

pvc with small lawn sprinklers that spray out a fan pattern, can be bought at local depot stores cheap ! figure out what you would need to plumb them in to the pvc, hose fitting to another pvc fitting. As far as winterizing blow air thru the lines.

 

[charlessenf]

Why not use 1" poly tubing?

Could be he's not recently priced 1/2" Cu?

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

in hog barns we do similar to keep animals cool in summer.

The irrigation industry makes these little plastic jobs you could tap in or glue. (about 10 cents each)
In the barns we use brass ones. (about 70 cents each)
We use poly pipe as cheaper than copper but heck use what you have. Also metal better for heat / fire i'm sure.

We live in a pine forest subject to fires. When fire in neighbourhood the local volunteer fire department come around and screws into the peaks of all our roofs big impulse sprinklers like you see in golf courses plus leaves behind a gas water pump and a portable containment pool (what looks like a big kiddy pool) full of water in case power goes off the gas pump is there to charge the sprinkler

ember defender makes roof mount stuff