Majik Paint from TSC

[Midniteoyl]

By the time I buy half a dozen spray cans I would have as much money in it, with out the added bonus of being able to get a good multi layer build up. I did think about it. I shot all the primer with a $10 HF gun, and an ancient compressor (60 year old uncle in law got it used, and old when he was a teenager).

I sanded with 220 grit the off color doors, and bondo, before priming with two good coats. I lightly sanded the primer with 320. Should i sand/prime/sand the good panels as well, or just scuff and hit with two coats of color?

I haven't decided on clear coat. If I can get by without it, I will. I read that the catalyst increases gloss.

Roll it with a sponge roller :thumbsup:

 

[paulharvey]

Well, in some ways this project has morphed. Originally I desperately needed to sell this truck do to being broke. I will be starting a new job Tuesday, nov.12, and I think I will keep the truck now, and fix/sell a dodge dakota I have with bad serpentine belt and water pump. Still going to paint with Majic, but im spending more time prepping then I was going to. Ill up date when I get some color shot.

I did two coats of primer on good panels, three on bondo. Actually, only one coat on top of roof.

Anyone have tips for shooting roof and center back of hood with out dragging hose on wet paint.

 

[LD1]

Well....Ironic timing I found this thread.

I can say that I am not a fan of the majic paint now being sold at TSC.

I am using it on my IH300 I am working on. I got grey primer, IH white, red primer and IH red.

The primers do seem to shoot well but I agree there was a TON of solids at the bottom. Over 1" of solids. Once mixed though, no issues.

But the red and white paint, using hardner and mineral spirits, dont shoot well at all. Not sure if it is me, the mix, or the gun?? The the spray isnt consistent. More like It will spray well for a few seconds, then not, then well again, then not. Like in spirts. Dont make any sense to me, all other paints I have ever shot (mostly the BPS stuff TSC used to sell), and even this majic primer, I have never had any issues.

I can spray red, have issues, then mix some primer and it shoots fine??

I am not an expert painter though. And I will make due with it this time. But will likely not use majic paint any more.

 

[paulharvey]

Couple shots I took about mid way through priming. I ended up taking decals off rather then taping them off.











BTW the ugly bondo at rear fender area will be covered with a piece plastic trim.

 

[paulharvey]

For those who have used it, with hardener, how bad was the fumes. They put such harsh safety warnings on Everything now, you never know what is actually bad, and what is lawyer induced protection (ie wear gloves and respirator to pump gas, wash for 30 minutes if splashed, and go to ER to have hand amputated).

I have used "methyl ethyl something" before (fiber glass resin hardener), and it took your breath away, but if you didn't eat it, no har.

 

[LD1]

I dont notice any difference in fumes between the paint with hardener and the primer without.

 

[paulharvey]

One safety warning that isnt included on Bond-O is "clean all fresh bondo from hands BEFORE using restroom"
Trust me, it was a "warming" sensation.

 

[varmint]

That last comment about the "warming" sensation reminds me of a time in the 60's when I was doing lab. facility design for a big 10 reseach building, and toured a Dow Chemical research lab with my boss- one of the exec's that was taking us around took us to lunch, and before eating, we went into the washroom... he asked me if I knew how to tell the difference between a chemist and a biologist? "The chemist washes his hands before he pees, the biologist afterwards..." and that made perfect sense to me!

 

[94BULLITT]

One safety warning that isnt included on Bond-O is "clean all fresh bondo from hands BEFORE using restroom"
Trust me, it was a "warming" sensation.

:laughing::laughing:

 

[paulharvey]

Well, I got a $5 off $25 coupon at TSC, so I figured fate wants me to get to work. Picked up Majic Tractor Truck and Implementation Glossy Black gallon ($29.99) and 8 oz Majic hardener ($14.99).

TSC refused to honor e-coupon (Palatka Fl store) but said if I print it out, and drive back up with coupon and receipt (30 miles) they would give me $5.00.

Paint was much easier to mix then the primer was. Decided to try it on tail gate first, so I measured 12 oz of paint (one soda can, lol) and did the math, 4 tsp of hardener (kids medicine cup) and I threw 4 tsp mineral spirits in to thin just a touch. Lesson one; 12 oz is Way too much to just shoot a tail gate; Lesson two; fumes, what fumes, I read that the hardener was so harsh it would send you to ER, I barely noticed shooting out side, no mask.

Dried with in 24 hrs except the runs and boogers. Shot well, but one side air jet kept getting semi blocked some how, and would randomly not atomize properly. I should have stopped then, but I knew the paint in gun would harden weather I was spraying or not, so I kept going. Shot tail gate and both sides of bed yesterday. This morning it has a high gloss (revealing all the imperfections.)

Anyone have a good method to pour from gallon can to small 8-12 oz cup without getting paint all down side of can?

 

[Hinomotoman]

I always go ahead and thin the whole gallon with a pint of thinner. I use a cheap plastic bucket with a spout from the Dollar Tree. Mix the unthinned paint thoroughly. Pour into bucket. Put the thinner in the can and put the lid on. Shake several minutes. This cleans the can so you know you have all the solids. Pour out the can into the bucket and stir. Refill the can to the top and put the lid on. You now have a pint of paint you can pour into the gun already thinned. I add the hardener after it's in the gun.

Eugene

 

[paulharvey]

Well, I know it's been a while, but I've got 2 coats of primer and 3 color on everything. I'm not positive but I think I did more work than I should have after doing more reading. I sanded each coat with 600 grit between coats, and I'm working on the final color with 1000 grit and 1200 grit. Now, I've pretty much come to the point that I've tried some buffing compound and I'm still not getting the bright look I want so I'm considering rattle can clear....

On more reading, people really just shoot 3 layers of clear over orange peel? Will 1000/1200 grit scuffs go away when I clear it? I'm thinking I'll try the tailgate first, but I'm a little concerned that I'll be making things worse.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Wet sand with 1600.. then compound.

 

[LD1]

Whenever I want a mirror finish, I have always worked up to wet sanding with 2000grit and then use polishing compound. Most rubbing compounds I have used dont leave a high gloss finish. It takes the polishing compoind.

But I am no expert painter and just buy the rubbing and polishing compound from autozone or the like. Pro grade stuff may differ.

Did you have any issues with coverage or runs?

 

[paulharvey]

Coverage was fine. I did have trouble with runs, especially on the tailgate. It's unbelievably frustrating, because you have to wait several days before the run cures enough to sand it away. I don't know if it was me, the gun, the compressor, or paint.

Basicallly, I think pretty much every time I sprayed something went wrong. If I had it to do over, I probably would just have scuffed and rattle canned the 3 doors...

 

[paulharvey]

Well for better or worse I'm done with the truck. If I had it to do again, I would have probably taken the gold doors off and sprayed them black rather then do the entire truck. I'm not sure I added that much value by painting, and it took forever. I have a guy coming to look at it this afternoon, and I guess I'll know more then. Some problems I ran into where: the amount of time it took; doing everything out side; learning to mix paint/thinner/hardener to get a consistent viscosity; I should have really attacked it with tape and kraft paper, I though I had it taped well, but dam if over spray didn't find its way onto the glass and the vinyl/rubber around windows. Another thing is that no matter how much work and time I put in, it always was clear it was a DIY paint job.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Not bad for a cheaper paint and out doors.. Without lots of practice and a booth its always gonna be hard.

 

[john_bud]

Coverage was fine. I did have trouble with runs, especially on the tailgate. It's unbelievably frustrating, because you have to wait several days before the run cures enough to sand it away. I don't know if it was me, the gun, the compressor, or paint.

Basicallly, I think pretty much every time I sprayed something went wrong. If I had it to do over, I probably would just have scuffed and rattle canned the 3 doors...

I'm pretty sure there is some magic dust pros add to the paint to keep runs from happening... and I don't have that stuff! I feel for you on the runs. Real PITA. It goes from too dry and orange peel to runs. I try to run a heavy coat on a test panel to see if the paint gods are angry or happy. If it runs, I reduce with fast reducer. Also, running a THIN coat first to give the paint something to stick to helps. At least that's what I'm told. I can still spray and get runs.