Maintenance by hours or calendar on lightly used tractor?

[rharkins]

My Boomer T3040 was built in the summer of 2008. I bought it last last summer (2009). I just did the 50 hour service on it this weekend, at 45 hours.

I had expected to be putting more hours on than I am, but some health issues are keeping it in the garage more than I'd like.

Should I plan on doing the 300 hour service some time next year, even though it won't have close to 300 hours on it?

The manual says nothing about service intervals in any terms besides hours. Most other equipment I've dealt with suggest service based on hours/miles or calendar months.

I'm not familiar with diesel engines, but that 45 hour oil really seemed black and thick...

Rick

 

[2458n]

Diesel oil is black and thick even with little usage. This is normal. I would use the Hour meter as you are keeping it in a garage. Hope your health allows more usage. I have had a hip replaced and a couple of eye operations. My doctor is a tractor guy so he is understanding. I would go out and spend some time with it letting it run to charge up the battery etc. The manual mentions hours because thats the measure used.

 

[JC-jetro]

On my tractor at least the actual hours is also a function of tractor rpm used. In other words if I run my tractor @ 2500 rpm producing 540 PTO rpm, then one hour is registered on my hr meter. Your 300 hrs might be several years at your current use. I'm sure opinions are varied but if your rig is in the shed/barn or garage I'll do it at the recommended time. Two previous owners of my tractor put 900 hrs on my tractor and never changed the gear oil. Surprising the transmission/hyd oil looked pretty good by dip stick inspection but the oil strainer was pretty plugged up with no sign of water and condensation since it was always garaged.

JC,


ps. can't hurt anything if you do decide to change it in about 4-5 years time.

 

[bp fick]

Your situation is not unlike many others. The calendar turns page after page, but the hours don't add up, for a variety of reasons. The tractor maybe gets used only in repetitive, short bursts, which is likely as hard(er) on it as putting in a good solid 5 hour workout in one sitting.

It's not uncommon for 300 hour service intervals turning out to be 6 or 7 years on the calendar.

Thus, I would see no harm and no great added expense in doing things a little earlier, if this is one's situation. Engine oil/filter annually, for example would do no harm. Other fluids/filters, say, every three years. It would put to rest any concerns and that's all good.

 

[dex3361]

I would watch for moisture condensation in the oils(engine and transmission). You can do a simple crackle test on oil to test for the presence of moisture in the oil by using a hot plate heated up and dropping a drop of oil on the heated surface. When water is present in the oil it will crackle. If I saw moisture in the oil I would probably change it earlier than the hours may call for.

 

[Thomas]

I like to go by service manual,for the company suggestion there for a reason...more so if tractor under warranty.

 

[RoyJackson]

I use both the calendar and hours. Since I only put less then 100 hours on the machine annually, I change the engine oil annually regardless of hours. Air filter every 2 years.
I do use the hour meter for greasing and changing hydraulic fluids.

Just do what makes the most sense to you...

 

[Jbrink64]

I use both the calendar and hours. Since I only put less then 100 hours on the machine annually, I change the engine oil annually regardless of hours. Air filter every 2 years.
I do use the hour meter for greasing and changing hydraulic fluids.

Just do what makes the most sense to you...

I go with RoyJackson's advice. Lack of use can be worse than over use. Moisture will get into everything, and eventually create acid.
Change the engine oil, and all filters, except the air filter, once a year. All other oils every 5 years (2 years if stored outside)

 

[shade tree welder]

Engine oil, change at least once a year, I change mine in the fall, in case
you have not read my recent debacle over oil changes causing engine
damage... I grease more often than called for as far as the power steering
fluid, and hydralic oils. The crackle test is a good method it will detect down
to 500 ppm water.

Frybrid Vegetable Oil Fuel Systems -- Crackle Test for Water Contamination

BTW, 1000 ppm or less water is ideal, you will always have some water
present due to atmospheric water. Unless you live in AZ.

Another good test to run on hydraulic oils etc. and you can get test kits
to run at home is the TAN or Total acid number. You can often call your
oil manufacturer and they will tell you what the typical TAN is for new oil
and what the upper limit should be for in use fluid.

You can also send samples out for testing, sample analysis will often only
cost $10-12 for basic analysis v. $100 for changing the hydraulic oil in my
TC40DA. The first time you send samples out send out a sample of virgin
oil also for a base line.

Engine produce acid exhaust in burning of fossil fuels, engine oils contain
overbased calcium sulfonates and calcium phenates to compensate for the
acid produced however every time you run you engine some of those acids
remain in the air in the crankcase. If you tractor sits for extended periods
the atmospheric moisture and these acids can combine and create corrosion
in your engine typically above the level of the oil on parts that have no or
extremely thin oil layer on it. running you engine every few months so it is
up to temp will significantly aid in preventing any condensation
corrosion.

Gear oils, hydralic oils, power steering fluid, etc. typically do not have the
same issues as they do not have to deal with the amount of soot or acid
engine oil do. However, circulation of these systems will only aid in protection
of their systems and the longevity of the equipment.

BTW, regular oil analysis can show that oils can be running much longer than
the hours recommend for change. When I first got my F-350 (7.3L Powerstroke)
I ran oil analysis on the engine oil, after 25,000 it was still good but the soot
levels were just getting a little on the high side then. I do not put alot of miles
on it any more so once a year it gets changed, did my oil change already for
this year, BTW, I run Delvac 1 in it. As soon as they release the 30 weight
version I will be running that in the New Holland. BTW, unless your engine has
a high oil capacity, typically it is not economical to run oil analysis. My
Powerstroke is 4 gallons of oil, my tractor is 6 liters; 6 liters is not worth testing.
4 gallons was worth testing for a baseline with typically use at that time. Now
it just gets changed once a year. The wife is a stay at home mom now, vs she
worked an it was a daily drive back then and I have a company car now. Ten
gallons of hydraulic fluid is worth testing.

Mobil 1, Delvac 1 and the Amsoil oil are the only products I know for sure
run Group IV basestocks most other "Synthetics" run Group III, and in my
opinion are not true synthetics, but that is another (long) story. I do not
know what the story is with the new Castrol Edge product, yet.

 

[RobertN]

Me too. Moisture builds up and needs to be removed. Also, various "gunk" builds up as part of the combustion process, and become acidic.

I let the hydro fluid go longer, since it is not in contact with the combustibles(ie engine). I do keep a close eye on it tough, for signs of moisture. I keep my tractor in a shed. Most moisture issues are from sitting outside in the weather.

I go with RoyJackson's advice. Lack of use can be worse than over use. Moisture will get into everything, and eventually create acid.
Change the engine oil, and all filters, except the air filter, once a year. All other oils every 5 years (2 years if stored outside)