Mahindra 3-point hitch stabilizers

[highway]

I realize this is the topic is touched on in several discussions but....my question.

I've had a 1533 for 70 hours and have broken one stablizer bar and foresee breaking many more as I
use it a lot with a rotary cutter, and I'm not mowing a golf course. Mower is a 5-foot Bush Hog 285-not a lightweight but certainly something this
tractor should handle with ease
.
I've looked at the usual online suspects for generic stabilizers but don't see anything that grabs me. It occurs to me that
what might work is a simple turnbuckle as is typical on 3-point top links. You could rotate it so that the receptacle was
vertical at the tractor end and horizontal at the implement attachment end. In that configuration it would fit the Mahindra.

Has anybody tried this solution and if so what problems, if any,have you had? THANKS

 

[Roadworthy]

My Kubota three point lift arms are stabilized with turnbuckles as were those on my Mitsubishi. they are pretty common. They generally have a jam nut to hold the adjustment in place when sit. For my Kubota the telescoping arms are an extra cost option.

 

[3gunr]

I have the turnbuckles on boyh my mahindras and wish i had ones like yours. Except for them breaking. Mahindra has issues with these as others on here have complained.

 

[duffer]

You didn't mention any possible reason for the breakage, but you should tighten the stabilizers on the lower arms with each implement you use so that there is little, if any lateral movement of the implement.

My 7' finish mower weighs about 400#. If I don't tighten the lower control arms the lateral movement of the mower will actually make the rear end of the tractor slide on damp ground, and sometimes on dry ground depending on the grade. That much force can easily break a stabilizer.

Not saying you don't tighten them, just an idea for you to consider if you don't tighten them with each implement.

 

[highway]

3gunr: You say "except for them breaking..." At $140 a pop that's a pretty big "except"! Can you pls describe in a little more detail the turnbuckles you have? Is the problem that they won't stay screwed tight? Seems like that's not a problem on top links, at least not in my experience. Thanks!

 

[belman]

Hello I have the 1533 and have broken one stabilizer some time ago. I replaced it with this: Adjustable Stabilizer Bar 6" Length | Agri Supply 33352
Haven't had a problem since. Hope that helps.

 

[oosik]

I have a bigger tractor but, along with that, I have bigger 3-point implements. Example - Rhino 950 rear blade @ 1010#. My 3-point has stabilizers that use the "pin in the hole" system. My first tractor - Ford 1700 - used the turnbuckle & lock nut system.

After I attach a new implement - I will then adjust the stabilizer bars. I always make implement connection with the stabilizer bars un-pinned and free swinging. I have ALWAYS adjusted the two stabilizers so that there is a bit of horizontal movement.

I will raise/lower the implement and ensure - no pinch, no bind - still having a bit of horizontal movement.

I'm able to adjust the two stabilizers so that horizontal movement never exceeds - one inch to the left/right of dead center. Recognize that "dead center" is only relative to the implement - not necessarily to the tractor. JMHO - but it is far more important to get the correct left/right horizontal movement than having the implements EXACTLY dead center with the tractor. In the end - the implement could be as much as 4" off dead center with tractor. I have NEVER found that this amount of offset has even the slightest negative affect in the way an implement will function.

JMHO & 38+ years of experience. Also - I have never caused damage to any part of the 3-point system.

 

[s219]

Make sure you are adjusting them correctly so that they only ever carry tension loads. A lot of people miss that important detail and then the stabilizers break when compressed. They are not meant to handle compression loads at all (whether turnbuckle or telescopic style). This is not just a problem for the stabilizer, it can also be a problem for the attachment points on the lower arms or tractor.

When an implement sways in one direction, the opposing stabilizer should go into tension to check the sway of the implement while the other one goes slack. If it goes into compression then things are not adjusted right.

 

[oosik]

OK - I, just now, went out and checked the Rhino 950 on my tractor. S219 IS ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. One side is in tension - the opposite side is loose/goes slack. And vise/versa. I shall be certain to check this every time I instal an alternate implement.

I never thought of this previously. Just lucky, I guess............ or, perhaps, it's designed to be this way. Unless I made some really ridiculous adjustment on the telescopic stabilizer bars.

 

[highway]

Make sure you are adjusting them correctly so that they only ever carry tension loads. A lot of people miss that important detail and then the stabilizers break when compressed. They are not meant to handle compression loads at all (whether turnbuckle or telescopic style). This is not just a problem for the stabilizer, it can also be a problem for the attachment points on the lower arms or tractor.

When an implement sways in one direction, the opposing stabilizer should go into tension to check the sway of the implement while the other one goes slack. If it goes into compression then things are not adjusted right.

thanks for this. I don't believe this was my problem but will definitely verify next time I have the mower on. How much "sway" would you propose? 1 inch or so? I take it you disagree with posters who suggest sway should be minimized as much as possible if not completely (and rigidly) eliminated? Seems like on my prior tractor with turnbuckles (a Deere 950) you could get them pretty darned rigid.