M62 MFWD lever as it should be

BeaconWoods · Aug 10, 2020

So after 482 hours of operating the MFWD lever on my M62 by reaching way down to engage or disengage, my back had had enough and I finally decided to change things to how I think they should be from the factory. Here's my procedure:

Remove the fancy orange knob and the short factory extension it is attached to. It has flats on the end. Mine were mostly blocked by the plastic sleeve over it.

Find a suitable bit of rod to use as an extension. Mine was some 3/8" rebar left over from a trellis project my wife had me do (I'm the farmer's husband).

I heated up the end with a torch and pounded a nice flat on it using a four pound hand sledge I bought at an auction a couple years ago and have looked for a use for ever since. Drill a hole in the newly formed flat the size of the stud on the short extension.

Screw the short factory extension back on. Slip the hole of the new extension over the stud on the short factory extension. Mark appropriate length, remove from tractor, and cut it off.

Acquire a bolt with the same (metric) thread as the knob / stud on the short extension. I found one in the ashtray of my '98 Camry. It was left over from a front brake job I did a couple years ago.

Reattach your freshly cut off extension. Thread the knob onto your newly found bolt (check the ashtray of your '98 Camry), find a good angle for the knob. Remove new extension, unscrew knob, weld the bolt on to your new extension.

Taking a clue from Kubota, they had placed a plastic sleeve over the short factory extension, I slipped a bit of red PEX over the new extension and installed the new lever. You will need another washer and it would not hurt to use a thicker nut. The factory one behind the knob is thin - it's just a jam nut.

It works like a dream and my back is happy as can be. Enjoy the pics. BTW, the whole thing took less than two hours working at a pretty slow pace - it was about 90 degrees outside.

Here are a couple pictures.

I dropped them all at M62 MFWD lever as it should be. - Album on Imgur

Happy modifying!

P.S. For those of you still ruminating about the leftover bolt from the brake job, the new caliper came with new fasteners.

Smokeydog · Aug 10, 2020

Nice. Like the added floor space too. Alway thought it an odd place for a function lever on M59/62. Mine stays in 4x4 almost all the time.

rScotty · Aug 10, 2020

BeaconWoods said:
So after 482 hours of operating the MFWD lever on my M62 by reaching way down to engage or disengage, my back had had enough and I finally decided to change things to how I think they should be from the factory. Here's my procedure: SNIP

SNIP

It works like a dream and my back is happy as can be. Enjoy the pics. BTW, the whole thing took less than two hours working at a pretty slow pace - it was about 90 degrees outside.

Here are a couple pictures.
View attachment 665862 View attachment 665863

I dropped them all at M62 MFWD lever as it should be. - Album on Imgur
Happy modifying!

The M59 has the identical 4wd lever, and ours moves too easily. Sometimes I would find it in 4wd when I knew I hadn't shifted it but couldn't figure why. My guess was I either hit it which my heel or else it was self-shifting due to the weight of the lever when I hit a bump. Maybe both....probably both.

Here's what I did: It's a $5.00 gate latch that locks in both positions. Problem solved!
The black latch doesn't show up so well; let me know if I need to explain something.
I wrapped some gorilla tape on parts of the latch as a shock absorber so it wouldn't rattle.
rScotty

Smokeydog · Aug 12, 2020

That’s a right smart modification too rScotty!
Wondering how well the right angle handle extension holds with just one nut? Needs two bolts, key or tang to control rotational force? Mil spec internal/external tooth washers might help. Good idea and hope the OP lets us know how the modifications weathers.

Been sawing, transporting storm damaged trees and brush for weeks. Gravel road is hardest hard surface on the farm. Keep my M59 4x4 engaged all the time. If I shifted only when needed it would be over twenty times per hour. If I forgot and didn’t have it 4x4 carrying a grapple full of brush downhill on the driveway in two wheel drive it would break traction and brakes would have little effect. Same thing in pastures. Even with loaded rear tires and heavy implement.
Have done the same with trucks and tractors. My first 4x4 tractor was 30 years ago. Haven’t seen undo wear of drivelines.

The big 4x4 ag tractors I would shift to 2wd in the yards to reduce scuffing. The medium size M59 with extra tall front lug tires and little B26 stay in 4x4 and are kinder and lawn friendly.

Of course on road hard surfaces use 2wd.

sandyc · Aug 12, 2020

This idea would be a great way to block off the differential lock. That might cause folks to wait until the wheels stopped spinning before engaging that lever. I’m thinking that it would provide a way to ensure you didn’t engage it by accident as well.

mikester · Aug 13, 2020

My vote would be for the rScotty solution to a problem I dont have. Cab space is at a premium on the M59/62 and the last thing I would want is a big lever I only need to use occasionally taking up real estate.

Do you guys have problems with the boom lock out switch like I do? My leg calf constantly bumps and locks it out, especially in bumpy ground. Ive bent the tang to try and make it less obtrusive, Im at the point of cutting it off with a hack saw.

Smokeydog · Aug 13, 2020

mikester said:
My vote would be for the rScotty solution to a problem I dont have. Cab space is at a premium on the M59/62 and the last thing I would want is a big lever I only need to use occasionally taking up real estate.

Do you guys have problems with the boom lock out switch like I do? My leg calf constantly bumps and locks it out, especially in bumpy ground. Ive bent the tang to try and make it less obtrusive, Im at the point of cutting it off with a hack saw.

Someone had previously removed the lockout lever for the loader on my M59 gives some merit to your ergonomic complaint. Bumpy on a hillside describes my farm. Rarely drive on the road so the option is not missed.

rScotty · Aug 13, 2020

mikester said:
My vote would be for the rScotty solution to a problem I dont have. Cab space is at a premium on the M59/62 and the last thing I would want is a big lever I only need to use occasionally taking up real estate.

Do you guys have problems with the boom lock out switch like I do? My leg calf constantly bumps and locks it out, especially in bumpy ground. Ive bent the tang to try and make it less obtrusive, Im at the point of cutting it off with a hack saw.

What switch is that? Maybe it's one I haven't found! Can you describe it? Do you mean the boom transport lock on the backhoe? On mine that's a big old manual pin. There's another manual pin that locks the FEL arms up.

BTW, If I'd known how many people would contact me on building 4wd lock-out latch I would have bought a galvanized one. My black latch doesn't show up so well in photos. Looking back at it now I see I went a little wild with that many bolts. I do remember that I was able to get my hand up behind the sheet metal & up far enough to put the nuts on without too much strain. Might have removed a small panel.
The latch completely solved the problem of my big feet accidently hitting the 4wd lever & shifting it.
rScotty

Smokeydog · Aug 13, 2020

Under the loader joy stick tower there is a slot in the plastic cover toward the operator seat. Per the owners manual there was a lever to lockout the FEL controls for safety during high speed transport. Toward the front still underneath the joy stick is another leveler to keep the loader bucket level for pallet fork operations.
The B26 also has a FEL lockout that sometimes gets accidentally hit but is up higher.