3-Point Hitch M-F 150 Engine PTO not working

[intoaircooled]

I purchased a M-F SN 9A 74249 I think its a 69 MDL 135 but I'm not 100% sure, it has a front end loader MF-ICM MDL # MF31 SN 1687000546.

The Perkins diesel engine, transmission and front end loader seem to work very well.


A few things that are making it hard for me to ID is it has power assist steering (it think optional) came with the loader option as did the heavy duty front axil and the other reinforcements for the front end loader.

The shift levers for the drive are 1 N 2 and H N L with a right "pitched fork" floor pedal for Reverse / Aux / Forward, as you press the forward or reverse the peddle the faster you go and the diesel engine rpm increase (nice feature). If you press the Aux only the engine rpm increases (no tractor movement).


The PTO has three positions Ground Neutral and Engine, it works in ground and free spins in neutral and is engaged in engine but the PTO doesn't turn in any setting or engine rpm in relationship to the transmission drive setting. I would like to investigate why it's not working and how to fix it. I'm looking to use the tractor with a brush hog to mow a 3 acre lot and will need the engine PTO to run the mower properly.

On the top of the transmission, close to the seat (right side) is a 途emote hydraulic lever that looks to have a quick discount fitting on one side and is capped off on the other end. The lever has three positions which I assume if you used it for something like post hole digger (hyd. motor) would be forward, neutral and reverse. If you mess around with the lever you can get the three point to lift.

The three point will not lift with it's own lever and I assume the drift is tied to it and it has to be up to be used.

I am completely new to the tractor world (other then running one from time to time) and took a chance on this unit, thinking I could fix it. I'm not a diesel mechanic but I do have a lot of mechanical background (Airplanes and Cars). Any help, that anyone may be able to give would be greatly appreciated. I would like to find or order the service and parts manual for the tractor but until I'm sure which model I have I am kind of stuck.

Thanks
Carl
Colorado Springs, CO

 

[Dieseltech]

Sounds like you have the 4 speed torque convertor drive tractor. If so the PTO should work only when the forward or reverse pedal is used and it will turn backwards in reverse, so be careful with it. If I remember right PTO speed will change too with each trans gear. When I worked at the dealer I would test by using any trans gear, but have hi lo start lever in the start position. Now push either forward or reverse with PTO shifted to engine drive. If working correctly you should then see the PTO turn. Even if it does work I would not use it on a brush mower unless you have the one way over running PTO clutch on, or the mower will push the tractor..

 

[coss]

I have a Massey Harris 50, the precursor to the MF 150. Mine has a 3 speed gear box, plus reverse, with a high and low range selector for a total of 6F/2R gears.

The PTO shift lever is on the side of the gearbox near one's left ankle. It has the same ground, neutral, and engine settings as you have.

The PTO shift lever moves a shifter fork that fits into a groove on a sleeve that moves the PTO into and out of gear. If a bush hog strikes a stump and the slip clutch does not slip or if the shear pin does not break, a tremendous force gets transmitted back through the PTO shaft to that shifter fork. If it pops out of its groove, you won't be able to shift the PTO into or out of gear. I had this exact problem once.

To check if things are hooked up properly inside, drain the gear oil out of the gearbox by removing the bolts on the belly of the tractor. It holds about 8 gallons, so have plenty of bucket capacity available. Then remove the side covers. As you remove the one on the left side, look carefully to see if the fingertip-sized fork on the end of the shift lever is in its slot. If not, move the sleeve forward or aft until you get the fork lined up in the slot, and put the cover back on.

If the 3-point hitch won't raise and lower, you may also have a problem with the hydraulic pump, which is accessed from the right side cover on the transmission case. You can also get a good look at by removing the top cover under and in front of the seat. I'm not an expert in hydraulic pumps, but it is pretty easy to clean the canister filter on the pump, and to check to see if its drive gear is meshing with the shaft. If not, try to get it lined back up. It is also possible you have so much water in the gear case that the pump won't work. Water gets in around the rubber boots at the base of the shift levers if the tractor was stored outside without a cover. Replacing the gear oil will fix the problem, and while it can cost $70-100 for the oil, you should probably change the fluid unless the previous owner can verify that it was done recently. A worse pump problem (a broken pump) can occur if the owner tried to run the tractor in the winter with an ice block in the gear case. You may find metal chunks at the bottom of the gear case if the pump is truly shot. You can replace the pump for a few hundred dollars. There are no doubt other possible hydraulic problems I haven't mentioned, but I will plead ignorance about them.

You can search ebay or other sources for repair manuals. The I and T manual gets a bad rap for being like a Reader's Digest book--abridged and therefore lacking. However, the gear box and PTO shaft diagram in the I and T manual is actually pretty good, and shows how the parts are supposed to work together.

I hope this helps. As I'm sure you know, you now own what many people consider to be the best small tractor ever made, and it is a legendary bush hog machine. It is worth some effort and money getting it into good working order. It won't take you long to cut 3 acres with that tractor.

 

[intoaircooled]

Well after several hours of digging around I have learned it's a MF 20 thinking an early version, not sure on the year yet, but I'm learning a lot. Nothing like diving into the unknown. Seems like a lot of the models and parts carry over to various other models. Trying to get as much information on the problems that I'm having before I tear into it.

Thanks for the input, it sounds right. And I will be opening things up in a couple of days. And will keep you posted.

 

[intoaircooled]

Well I spent most of yesterday checking things out and here is what I did. I remover the RH inspection plate, drained the case oil and felt around the inside to see if there was any big (or small) chunks in the bottom of the case. There was a bit of mud and some metal flakes, which I would consider to be normal wear. What I did learn is the shaft from the engine that drives the TPH pump and the PTO when the lever is pulled into engine position, sometime will spin up and then "fade out" or stop spinning. Which when it stop spinning the hydraulic pump and the PTO stop. I drained the oil in the transmission and changed it. Both the engine and transmission oil was dark in color but not what I would consider real bad.

Is there a clutch assembly in the front of the transmission the drives the hydraulic pump and PTO? It acts likes it's slipping in the clutch and needs adjusted or replaced. This tractor has the instant reverse system. I'm still in the air about the model it could be a MF 20, MF 40 or 2205 Industrial.
It's very hard to figure out.

 

[intoaircooled]

Just figured out the PTO on the industrial is tied to the Instant Reverse transmission when the PTO lever is pulled up into engine you have to have the tractor either moving under it's power or have the drive levers set to neutral your foot pressing the forward pedal in order for the PTO to work and TPH to function. The PTO will go in forward or "instant reverse". I'm don't think that's going to work very well for a brush hog with the instant reverse system.

Would a PTO overrun clutch work to protect both the mower and the PTO?