Lubricating proof meter cable?

[Hammbone]

Going to install new proof meter cable (8n) this weekend among other things, but wanted to know before I installed it if there is any kind of lubrication that needs to be done to it. I swear I remember reading somewhere that new ones needed to be lubed before installation, but don't remember where. I did a little searching around and could not find anything definitive on the subject. Some said they used wd-40 before installation, but that sounds like a recipie for gunk build up down the road to me. I looked through the FO4 manual and it barely said a word about the meter or cable. So, does it need lubed? If so with what and how? Do I take the c-clip off and pull out the inner shaft?
Hammbone

 

[CalG]

Pull the inner
Lightly apply white grease to the length, staying clear of the final two inches nearest the instrument.

WD-40 is a good solvent, but a worthless lube.

 

[Hammbone]

Thanks CaIG, I figured that was probably the best route to go, but I've never like taking apart brand new parts to do something without knowing that it's necessary. I figured as much about the wd-40 too.

 

[Soundguy]

graphite lube, tach lube, key-lock lube.. etc.

ditto on wd-40 being worthless unless you need to get water out of a dizzy cap or remove a sticker

 

[Hammbone]

Well, I found out that the socket on the proof meter is stripped out. Is this something that can be fixed, or will I just have to go with a new meter? It seems to still function if you turn it with your fingers, so I was hoping to try to salvage what looks like the original meter. Anyone rebuilt these things?

 

[CalG]

amazing things can be done with epoxy these days. J-B Weld, or Devcon metal bearing materials might fill the hole, and re establish the square hole.

Also, judicious use of a needle nose vice grip can work magic on some situations.

 

[Hammbone]

I think I like the jb weld idea, I may just have to give that a shot, nothing to loose right? Thanks for the idea!

 

[Soundguy]

you can always pry the bezel open, remove the glass and rear screws and lif the mechanism out..

 

[Hammbone]

you can always pry the bezel open, remove the glass and rear screws and lif the mechanism out..

I got the mechanism out, but I was hesitant to take it much further apart. Everything inside seems to work and move freely as it should, I believe it had seized to the housing and broke free after I soaked it with pb blaster. I just need to figure out how to turn the round hole back into a square hole now.

 

[wolc123]

On my 1951, I just stuck a new one in dry, as it came out of the plastic bag, on the day the old one failed (at 1500 hours). They had one in stock at the farm store around the corner. I don't remember it being very expensive. Currently, I have around 500 additional hours. You should be able to get that with no lube anyhow. How many hours did yours fail at? What did the new one cost? That sounds like a bit of a messy job that I would skip unless the cable was expensive and/or I had lots of free time. It would be interesting to know the average difference in lifespan of a lubed or un-lubed cable. I know it is hard to believe, but sometimes too much lube can do more harm than good.