Lubricants for Jinma 284

Soundguy · May 7, 2004

( But if you change to "regular" gear oil, the tranny and differential dipsticks will look like they just came out of a rootbeer float )

For the gear and tranny.. that will be one benefit of the many utf oils.. they are non foaming. I hear there are even synthetics out there that do not emulsify with water.. at all..

Soundguy

Soundguy · May 7, 2004

( What I have been told by his folks is that they serviced ALL resevoirs with 15W40 (tranny, diffs, hydros, etc.) IT JUST FLYS IN THE FACE OF MY UPBRINGING! Why would they do this when we have stuff on the market that is specific for the component (s). )

Price.. and once its sold.. its your problem. Over in the yanmar forum we were discussing ATF fluid. Seems the exporters over there just put ATF in the tranny, diffy, and hyds, and say it is fine. Well.. I guess it is fine in the hyds.. and the tranny.. but ATF in the diffy seems iffy... I just havn't seen any claims of EP addatives in ATF.. My take on it is that ATF is what they can cheaply buy in bulk.. and it keeps the gears wet on the boat ride over.

Lord help us if cooking oil ever gets too cheap as they will probably start using that, and then say it is fine to use.....

I suspect the chineese are doing the same....

Soundguy

trentay · May 8, 2004

Greg,

I had to chime in here - I agree here with your lube recommendations - but had to give some insite into the steering wheel doing 360's on you. Seems we had that happen here with a group of tractors and looking at the front axle, there are in fact stops welded on, so something had to be wrong.

I have taken a complete steering system apart on one of these tractors now and found out how it works, fairly simple and straightforward.

Found the problem, the pitson seals in the hydraulic cylinder for the power steering were blown in both directions! Thus the steering wheel that never stops turning and when the fluid gets pretty warm, you loose the ability to turn and start running into things. We pulled the cyl apart and found the seals (poly) were blown out and worn down so they could not be used at all. We then began the search for new seals and finally found them both at Northern (OEM replacements) and through a local supplier (better than OEM as far as quality). After wrecking a set of new seals putting the thing back together, we then found that we had to make a thin shim to get the seal past the first fluid inlet hole in the cyl. It seems the chinese did a poor job of machining the hole before welding the pipe on and left it rough inside. I think that they just slammed them together and wrecked the original seals at the factory. We have just finished rebuilding our 5th cyl and they all work like they are supposed to and they hit the stops, steering is much more positive and the steering wheel does not keep going round and round.

Sorry to get off topic here, but thought you might be interested.

greg_g · May 8, 2004

( When the fluid gets pretty warm, you loose the ability to turn and start running into things.)
Mine never got that bad (before it was traded), but the info will be useful to other Jinma owners.

If I understand what you're saying, the steering wheel should revolve only till a front whes hits its mechanical stop. At that point, the stop motion (or cylinder travel?) should trigger a valve to end the hydraulic flow in that direction. No more steering wheel travel - because of fluid pressure against the closed valve - until the steering wheel is moved in the other direction against an opened valve.

So if both valves remain open at all times, the fluid is permitted unrestricted flow - the steering cylinder continues to respond to input - but the steering wheel travel never ends.

Is that close?

//greg//

greg_g · May 8, 2004

Re: Lubricants for Jinma 284 *DELETED*

Post deleted by greg_g

greg_g · May 8, 2004

( that will be one benefit of the many utf oils.. they are non foaming. I hear there are even synthetics out there that do not emulsify with water)
From what I can tell, all synthetic and synthetic blend gear oils are non-foaming. But it's at a price; around $10 and $6 a liter respectively. In the long run, that's a good thing. But at the cash register it's got a tendency to bring on sticker shock.

I also encountered some non-foaming bio-oils, but......well - I don't want to get into that argument.

Non-foaming non-synthetic is harder to find. AmRep (the old Amway, I think) markets a non-foaming gear oil under the Misty label. And Shell Spirax is advertised as "anti-foaming". But please don't ask me what the difference is between non-foaming and anti-foaming.

The KAMA dealer (Bluechip) was considerate enough to replace the Asian fluids in my KM454. But I'm still going to do the kerosene flush at 50 hours. Following my Jinma experience, there will be metal partical contamination. It's a simple fact of life, a normal by-product of the Chinese tractor break-in process. But I digress. At that time, I plan to use 75W90 Spirax in the front end and tranny, 15W40 Rotella in the crankcase, and AW32 in the hydraulics. It's a direct injection motor, with a dedicated oil line to the fuel injector pump. But I can't find a return line, so I'm not sure at this point whether or not I have an injector pump oil change to perform or not.

//greg//

DFW · May 8, 2004

But I'm still going to do the kerosene flush at 50 hours. 

I have seen mention of flushing with kero/diesel etc at change time in many posts. My question, do you fill the various components (engine/tranny/diff/hyd) run the tractor for a few minutes and then drain again? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Just want to be sure.

Soundguy · May 8, 2004

I would also put a magnet in the drain plug if it doesn't already have one.. again.. something we vintage tractor people do.. as 60 years of wear tends to make ring and pingion gears flake a bit

I agree that it is generally harder to find oil with non-foaming properties.. but they are out there.. I use them in my NH 1920.. straight fromthe NH dealer.

As for sticker shok.. with the extremely long interval between hydro fluid changes in tractors.. I figure it is money well spent.

To the other poster: No I wouldn't put diesel in your crankcase and then run it... On our old tractor when we clean out the hyd / tranny/diffy sump.. we pul the bottom plugs / plates, and use a garden type sprayer and flush all the crud out into a bucket.. then let drip dry for a few hours.. refill, and go our merry way.

Soundguy

greg_g · May 8, 2004

( I wouldn't put diesel in your crankcase )
Nor I. But I do work the hydraulics and gears when flushing everything else. The hydraulic hoses and pump need a good flush, not just the reservior. And there's a lot of stuff clinging to the housing walls that get a good rinse when kerosene/diesel is sprayed by rotating gears.

What drains out initially is nowhere near the rated capacity. There's stuff clinging above the normal fill level. So I wasn't surprised when flushing, that I got about 3 gallons of crud out - for every 2 gallons of kerosene poured in..

//greg//

Soundguy · May 8, 2004

If that system uses a hyd filter.. I would flush with a product made by seafoam.. called transtune... It specifically sells itself as a tranny, hyd and diffy flush.. compatible with all oils.. etc.. dewaters and everything... but only recomended in systems with filters.. guess it really gets stuff moving..

Soundguy