Thanks for all responses to answer questions, tractor ran fine in January other than needing a jump.
Once you replaced the old battery was the tractor starting with it, and running consistantly, no other problems?
hard to explain but there are 3 positions for key, straight up is when you put key in, turn slightly to about 2 o'clock position (this is where the plugs heat up and the display lights up on dash), then 3 o'clock that actually cranks the tractor.
When FIRST turned to 2 o'clock the tractor will attempt to start; like you were turning to the 3 o'clock position. this lasts for about 2 seconds and then stops. If you turn further to the 3 o'clock it does NOTHING, no click no starter engagement, nothing.
It does have seat switch, I was sitting on seat during all this.
Is the seat switch bypassed or functional? If functional, do you have to lock the seatbelt, OR just put it in neutral?
Do you have a PTO engagement switch, and if so, is it in OFF position when trying to start?
Sometimes a PTO lockout will allow the starter to crank for just a 1/2 second, BUT then locks out the ignition from allowing a start to occur.....
After the new battery was installed was the tractor doing this routine- in Jan?
It is a shuttle shift, Medium speed control, and in neutral gear, with clutch pressed
So the starter is engaged for about 2 seconds...I suspect the ignition due to the tractor trying to start when the key position IS NOT in the position for it to start. and then nothing after that, maybe it is a loose wire or something, i was looking for opinions on where to start my search as I realize it is electrical, but with the cab, it makes it really difficult to trace all the lines.
Before you go guessing what might be the cause, you must start at the beginning. The beginning is at the battery. What is it's static state of charge? What does it read between the two posts, NOT the two cable clamps on the posts? Report this. Then have someone watch the meter as you go from inserting key to 1st position to your right(acc). Report reading.... Then to 2nd position which should be spring loaded (crank). Report reading....
Next remove ground cable at negative battery post and clean it until it and post are bright shiny metal.
With neg cable disconnected from battery do same cleaning to hot cable and it's battery post. Now repeat above test(s) and see if anything is changed. If not and symptoms are the same, check the negative connection at the tractor frame and clean where the connection is grounded, including the frame bolt to shiny metal. Test for changes in starting. Also try wiggling negative cable to see if it changes the symptoms.
Sometimes the cable will corrode internally below the sheathing. How old is the tractor? How many hours on clock?
If you suspect or see corrosion on either cable end or near the sheathing where bare cable could be found carefully slice a short section of the sheathing and pull it back to see if the cable has hidden corrosion. If either the negative, ( most common) or positive cable has evidence of corrosion replace it with a new one. Often the internal wires will show a pinkish color instead of clean dull to bright wire.
If all that AND the battery checks out as functioning correctly, then you can go after things like ignition switches, etc.
It's not to say the ignition switch couldn't be at fault, but guessing is not the way to troubleshoot any electrical issue, unless you like spending money on parts that may NOT solve the problem.
It's possible the winter- since january killed your new battery- to the extent it's NOT holding enough charge to do it's job and that is showing up at the ignition when you try to get the tractor to start.
Do you have a battery charger and or VOM, (volt/ohm meter). To fix this, you'll probably need both to get it going....
Yes there are rodents in the area, but no nests present or droppings (we use LOTS of poison to keep them out of the shed)
But they could have nested in the cab, behind panels, or the dash, yes? If so, they could have wreaked damage yet unseen...
As to removing the FEL, not sure if I can remove or not without it running or "picking it up", it has 3 pins on each side and the 4 hydraulic lines.
:confused3::confused3:
