Looking to purchase a MF, which one is enough?

[nalle]

Hi everyone,
well we are new in the Tractor world and need some help with the right size. Since the Dealer are dismissing the smaller units. Been at JD, K, Yanmar.
I like the Specs of the Massey Ferguson and looks, but would like to get more input from more experienced folks.
We have 5 acres (steep) with 1/4mile driveway in North Idaho. Planning on use the Tractor in these ways:

• Snow removal on driveway and yard, will hunt down an old Pull behind V-Style PTO Blower
• Use the Loader for Wet-Snow removal "pretty rare around here"
• Maintain the driveway, thinking Box-Scaper
• Gathering Firewood off the Property
• Moving And stacking Firewood. Wood stacked on a 3' tall Pallet "with side walls", Want to move them 1 by 1 in the winter close to the door
• Moving Dirt, slowly filling in a reviene we have. Gaining flat ground to park.
• Wood-Chipper down the road.
• Tons of other ways I haven't even thought of yet.

I like the MF 1526, just don't know if it can handle all. Don't mind if I have to run a extra run with the .... since this is private use, as Long as it can handle it.
Or if the 1736 the better option, to manage the task?
Like I said flat surface is a premium around here, so turning radius is important. On the other side I am pretty Big, 6'6" tall and could be less wide.
I know I'll have to check them out in person, just looking for pointer before showing up at the dealership.

Thanks

Mike

 

[jeff9366]

Massey Ferguson 1526

2011 - 2018 1500 Series
Model years
Compact Utility tractor

Production:
Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson
Original price (USD)
$15,968 (2017 )

Massey Ferguson 1526 Engine:
Iseki 1.5L 3-cyl diesel

Capacity:
Fuel: 7.1 gal [26.9 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Control: position control
Rear lift (at ends): 1322 lbs [599 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 992 lbs [449 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Clutch: electro-hydraulic
Rear RPM: 540
Mid PTO: independent
Mid RPM: 2000

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 61.4 inches [155 cm]
Weight: 1873 lbs [849 kg]
Front tire: 7-12
Rear tire: 35x12.00-16.5
Ground clearance: 11 inches [27 cm]

Massey Ferguson 1526 attachments:
mowing deck
front-end loader

Massey Ferguson 1526 Power:
Engine (gross): 24.8 hp [18.5 kW]
PTO (claimed): 20.1 hp [15.0 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Differential lock: mechanical rear
Steering: power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
SCV flow: 5.5 gpm [20.8 lpm]
Total flow: 8.7 gpm [32.9 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.2 gpm [12.1 lpm]




Massey Ferguson 1726E

2013 - 1700 Series
Compact Utility tractor
Series next: Massey Ferguson 1726E
Series back: Massey Ferguson 1726E

Production:
Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson

Massey Ferguson 1726E Engine:
Shibaura 1.5L 3-cyl diesel
full engine details ...

Capacity:
Fuel: 10 gal [37.9 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Rear lift (at ends): 2205 lbs [1000 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1598 lbs [724 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: transmission
Rear RPM: 540 (1.375)

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 65.9 inches [167 cm]
Weight: 2600 to 2657 pounds

Massey Ferguson 1726E Power:
Engine: 24 hp [17.9 kW]
PTO (claimed): 20.4 hp [15.2 kW] (gear)
19.2 hp [14.3 kW] (hydro)

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Final drives: bull gear
Differential lock: rear standard
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center gear pump
SCV flow: 6.7 gpm [25.4 lpm]
Total flow: 10.5 gpm [39.7 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.8 gpm [14.4 lpm]

 

[jeff9366]

I owned a Kubota B3300 SU tractor-loader. Same specs as the MF 1526. I sold it after 400 hours because it was too light - and I operate only on flat ground.

Go with the MF1726E. You have several ground contact applications where tractor weight is EVERYTHING and you anticipate operating on slopes where the heavier machine will be more stable under load. Consider installing 2 X 3" rear wheel spacers at time of purchase, when installation charge will be minimal.
MORE: tractor for steep terrain site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

For driveway maintenance consider a Land Plane / Grading Scraper (LPGS).
VIDEO: land plane grading scraper - YouTube

I am a great fan of the Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. Good for light grading, paired with either a Box Blade or LPGS and highly useful in woodland maintenance, especially for corralling brush.
VIDEO: ratchet rake - YouTube

Five acres is about the upper limit in property size practical for a tractor wood chipper, which are maintenance intensive after the first or second year. Property owners with greater acreage almost always burn. That includes me.

Enjoy your research and consideration. Anticipation is 50% of satisfaction.

GOOD FIRST POST.

 

[nalle]

Thanks Jeff,
for weight all dealers around here seem to fill the Rear Tires with "Beet Juice". Some do this standard, others recommend it highly.
We want to spend our Money wisely and not on items that may just have a High Commission.
JD Salesperson pushing past the 10, 20, 30K within seconds then coming to the this would work but a bit on the small size (Family 3 Tractor) and of course we need a Cab, then pushing us to the next Size up. As I started to ask about the smaller ones and with no Cab, it was all over. Handed me some Brochures and have a nice day.

Going to the 1700 Series, is it worth the upgrade to the Premium? Price difference about 4K.

Thanks and Happy new Year.

 

[jeff9366]

Filling rear tractor 3/4 full with liquid lowers the tractor center-of-gravity, making the tractor more stable on slopes. Greater weight in rear tires also gives rear tires more traction. Beet juice is very dense and has a low freezing point. Beet juice is the premium tire "loading" material.

Rear wheel spacers increase stability further.


Tractors are a long term purchase and hold value pretty well. At some time you will recover a good part of your initial investment.

Consider that assembly cost of 1526 and 1726 is virtually identical. You are paying for thicker steel which will be much stronger, larger tires which smooth your ride and higher capacity hydraulic lift cylinders in the Loader and Three Point Hitch.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[jeff9366]

Going to the 1700 Series, is it worth the upgrade to the Premium? Price difference about 4K.

I am not familiar enough with MF lineup to answer your question with authority.

I owned a Deere and later a Kubota tractor with standard kit before buying a Kubota 'Grand L' which has deluxe kit standard, as my third tractor.

I find the Kubota Grand L features well worth the money. MF salesman should be able to justify $4,000 price difference in detail.

You will probably want to PUSH tractor implements occasionally in your ground contact tasks. In order to PUSH implements you need RIGID stabilizers attached to the Three Point Hitch lower links.

Cheaper tractors usually have "chain" stabilizers, which are fine PULLING but offer zero support when PUSHING implements. See photo. The chain/turnbuckle stabilizers weight around four pounds. Rigid stabilizer weigh around twelve pounds.
VIDEO: Standard vs Deluxe 3 Point Hitch - YouTube



MORE: standard vs deluxe tractors site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

 

[nalle]

Thanks for all your input, totally agree with

Tractors are a long term purchase and that value pretty well. At some time you will recover a good part of your initial investment.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

We want to just find the right one, that we can have for many years to come.

If I got this all right the "RIGID stabilizers attached to the Three Point Hitch lower links" on the Economy vs Premium models. Both have them, just the Economy has Screw in Stabilizers vs "Pin Style". Thinner Drawbar on the Economy Model. The Lower Hook up points are fixed, compared to extendable ones on the Premium Series. Also the 3 Point Hitch has about 900# higher lifting power on the Premium Series.

Thanks

 

[redman135]

Hello Nalle, 1) Get on the tractor and try for fit. Seriously, the ergonomics do vary(I have been laughed at for this statement). Some tractors have controls that are exactly right when you go to use them, while others are not quite right. These irritate and take the gloss off the tractor.
2) As you as on hills adjust the rear wheels to max width for stability. If the rims are fixed, then get adjustable rims fitted or go duals. You will be amazed at how much more stable the tractor feels.
3) Load your tyres. Much safer on hills when using a loader, and better traction.
4) Get tyres with 45 degree tread. They stick to the hillside best. If you are uncertain what I mean then look at the "V" the tread forms. If it is close to 90 degrees at the base of the "V" then you have 45 degree tread . If you are lucky they will be factory standard and save you the cost of changing them.
5)Cab, -does your head hit the roof?
-does the wiper wipe the windscreen where you look? ( I usually have to get a longer wiper on cab tractors and trucks as factory wipers are to low. I am quite tall.)
-reflections on the windscreen/ windows when driving into the shed /manuvering in tight areas , how deceptive are they?
-does the rear wiper park in your eye line when reversing? (MF 5465 grrrrrr)
6) even only a lean-to shelter will make a difference to cold starting

 

[ID Corgi Ranch]

Hi everyone,
well we are new in the Tractor world and need some help with the right size. Since the Dealer are dismissing the smaller units. Been at JD, K, Yanmar.
I like the Specs of the Massey Ferguson and looks, but would like to get more input from more experienced folks.
We have 5 acres (steep) with 1/4mile driveway in North Idaho. Planning on use the Tractor in these ways:

• Snow removal on driveway and yard, will hunt down an old Pull behind V-Style PTO Blower
• Use the Loader for Wet-Snow removal "pretty rare around here"
• Maintain the driveway, thinking Box-Scaper
• Gathering Firewood off the Property
• Moving And stacking Firewood. Wood stacked on a 3' tall Pallet "with side walls", Want to move them 1 by 1 in the winter close to the door
• Moving Dirt, slowly filling in a reviene we have. Gaining flat ground to park.
• Wood-Chipper down the road.
• Tons of other ways I haven't even thought of yet.

I like the MF 1526, just don't know if it can handle all. Don't mind if I have to run a extra run with the .... since this is private use, as Long as it can handle it.
Or if the 1736 the better option, to manage the task?
Like I said flat surface is a premium around here, so turning radius is important. On the other side I am pretty Big, 6'6" tall and could be less wide.
I know I'll have to check them out in person, just looking for pointer before showing up at the dealership.

Thanks

Mike

Hi, Mike...

Like you I'm a relative tractor noob. I use my MF 1710 much like you want to use the tractor you want to buy and it's pretty close to the 1526 you're thinking about in terms of size and performance. We have 10 acres in the LC Valley and I use mine for road/driveway maintenance, snow removal, spreading gravel, and moving heavy items around. I also planned to use it for some work in a creek bed on the property, mostly moving trees that beavers have felled in the last year or so. I've owned my 1710 for about a year and just sold it yesterday. It simply isn't big enough to do what I want to do with it. Well, it is...it just takes a long time. And I'll darn near have to cut the trees into firewood size logs to move them with the 1710.

I have a new tractor on the way. Not a Massey (out of my budget range for what I wanted) but a TYM. I can tell you from first-hand experience, you're gonna run out of horsepower really quickly with the smaller tractor. At least I did. The 1710 is a great machine and I wish I could keep it because the size makes it very handy...one of it's best, and worst, features. I would say, between the two you're looking at, definitely go with the 1736. I recently got a quote of $33k total cost, shipped to me, for a new 2017 1736 with cab and HST. I thought that was a pretty good price but still more than I could pay.

I opted for a different brand and got a new 46 HP tractor with cab and a few goodies the MF didn't have standard for $28.5 shipped to me. Same tractor without cab can be had for low 20's.

It's definitely gonna be bigger and won't fit in some of the places the 1710 will but it'll do a lot more work in less time. I can't wait to get it.

Good luck with your search.

ETA: Forgot to mention the size thing. I'm not nearly as tall as you and it's a bit of a reach, even for me at 5' 8", to comfortably reach the steering wheel. I almost have to lean over. Also, you pretty much nailed the differences between the E models and the Premium models. One thing is the joy-stick is much easier to reach on the premium machines. Probably money well spent.

 

[nalle]

Thanks for the input, I am heading to the dealer during the week and going to "try them on"
Looks like everything I am reading and what I am hearing is to consider the 1736 or 17xx Series.
We are going for a open Station for 2 reasons: Cost and driving with lower branches, don't want to wreck such a expensive item.
The V - Tread Form Tires are you talking about the Ag Tires?

Once again Thanks for your help.

Mike

 

[jeff9366]

Be sure to collect a brochure on every model you test and are interested in.

 

[nalle]

Hi, Mike...
I recently got a quote of $33k total cost, shipped to me, for a new 2017 1736 with cab and HST. I thought that was a pretty good price but still more than I could pay.

Thanks Corgi,
kind of getting the feeling we should step up to the 30-35 HP Tractor, to have something we can keep for a long time. I'll head to the dealership and start to look at them, sit in them and what feels more right. I wish you the best of times with your new Tractor, did you buy local or have it shipped to you?

 

[redman135]

The "V" tread tyres I am refering to are avalible in ag or industrial. The important bit is that the "V" forms a 90 degree angle at the base. There are other "V" type treads that have a wider angle (120 degree approx) that don't stick to hillsides as well.

 

[jeff9366]

Getting the feeling we should step up to the 30-35 HP Tractor, to have something we can keep for a long time. I'll head to the dealership and start to look at them, sit in them and what feels more right.

Once you cross the 25-horsepower demarcation line, you pay for the full panalopy of "Tier iV" tractor emission controls. About +$3,000. Just be aware of why tractor prices jump $3,000 from <25-horsepower to over >25-horsepower.

For five acres, less your home, less your road, and the ability to garage store your tractor, consider if stepping up is cost effective. For the tasks you have listed, tractor weight is more important than tractor horsepower. MF 1726E @ 2,600 pounds, bare tractor, has pretty good weight. Operating weight with FEL, loaded tires, etc., will be around 4,000 pounds.

Tractor horsepower relates more to the ability to power larger capacity PTO implements. Rotary cutters are the most common PTO powered implements and the most power hungry.


I understand buying for the long term and I still advise: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

I bought three before achieving ENOUGH TRACTOR. It should have been two.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Be sure that you look at the ROPS bar height and compare that to your barn/garage opening for the models that you are considering. That height may help you eliminate some models. For me it was the Kubota L2501 that just wouldn't fit without folding down or cutting down the ROPS, but the Kubota B2650 would just make it. So that helped me decide between the two pretty quickly. I plan to build a large unattached garage in a couple years, and with that I can do taller doors, but for now I have what I have... And I'm not feeling the desire to play with the ROPS every time I want to use the machine.

Consider everything. Take your time. It's a major purchase and if you decide a year or 2 after buying new that you made a mistake, you'll likely loose thousands of dollars on the trade to move to what you should have bought to begin with.

My suggestion... Buy your first tractor used so that you can get out of it for nearly the same price you paid. Then when you know why you are selling what you thought you wanted but discovered that it's not enough, you take that first hand knowledge with you to go buy you brand new "last tractor you'll ever buy" unit. But it likely will not be the last, hopefully it will stick around long enough to pay it off before you trade it for the next shiny machine.

I bought my first one used a few months ago. I have a brand new B2650 ordered now and I'm trading the used BX25D in on it with no financial pain.

Just take your time.

 

[Tompet]

Reading through this post and looking at the Massey site, it appears there are four models you are considerating. The 1526 vs 1726e (which is the newest 1700 series model and likely 1526 replacement, the last 1500 series tractor available) and the 1734e vs premium 1736.

It would be nice if they have all four on the lot, but I have sat on a 1526 and it would be interesting for a direct comparison with the 1726e. I suspect the 1726e might be a nicer build and operator "feel". The 1726e shares same wheelbase size as next two larger "e" series models according to literature, so it has a larger stance than the 1526. And as Jeff pointed out more heft in the build. So like other brands it's Massey's new "under tier 4 final stuff" without associated electronics that the 1526 provided until 1726e model arrived.

I think you will notice an obvious difference in amenities, 3pt., seat, controls, loader, etc., between the 1734e and the premium 1736 and a little larger frame on the 1736. The premium 3pt. is nice but not sure if it's available on e series as an upgrade.

My suggestion is look at models in person sit on and check things out, and if unsure, go back another day because each time you look it allows you to notice other details and facts missed on initial visit. Good luck, enjoy the search, and get what you want first time...been there trading up. Btw, any other brands you are considering or is Massey chosen to simplify process! Post what you eventually decide!

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

If you're going to cross the 25hp river, better make it worth it. Buy bigger and buy something you'll enjoy operating (ie, ergonomics and trim level). My suggestion is to look at something in the 30-39hp range and get a "premium" trim level.

I bought a 1643 with FEL and while it's a very nice tractor that seems to exceed its listed performance specs, I frequently find myself running out of tractor on our 125 acre farm. A 1652 would have been the better choice and I wish I had bit the bullet and gone in that direction.

Listen to our advice on this matter: buy enough tractor. Buy bigger than you think you need.

 

[nalle]

Once you cross the 25-horsepower demarcation line, you pay for the full panalopy of "Tier iV" tractor emission controls. About +$3,000. Just be aware of why tractor prices jump $3,000 from <25-horsepower to over >25-horsepower.

Yes, I am bit worried about the the Tier Stuff. Bad experience with Trucks. Now just sticking with our old reliable Truck.
If I understand you correctly the 25HP would be plenty for the things we are planing to do, but the added weight of the Tractor will help with Stability, getting the work done and Safety. Correct?

Be sure that you look at the ROPS bar height and compare that to your barn/garage opening for the models that you are considering. That height may help you eliminate some models. For me it was the Kubota L2501 that just wouldn't fit without folding down or cutting down the ROPS, but the Kubota B2650 would just make it. So that helped me decide between the two pretty quickly. I plan to build a large unattached garage in a couple years, and with that I can do taller doors, but for now I have what I have... And I'm not feeling the desire to play with the ROPS every time I want to use the machine.
Consider everything. Take your time. It's a major purchase and if you decide a year or 2 after buying new that you made a mistake, you'll likely loose thousands of dollars on the trade to move to what you should have bought to begin with.
My suggestion... Buy your first tractor used so that you can get out of it for nearly the same price you paid. Then when you know why you are selling what you thought you wanted but discovered that it's not enough, you take that first hand knowledge with you to go buy you brand new "last tractor you'll ever buy" unit. But it likely will not be the last, hopefully it will stick around long enough to pay it off before you trade it for the next shiny machine.
I bought my first one used a few months ago. I have a brand new B2650 ordered now and I'm trading the used BX25D in on it with no financial pain.
Just take your time.

We don't have any Shed/Garage for the Tractor or anything else for the matter. Tractor will be a tool used to help with a build of said such Shed/Garage.
Used ones do exist, but are expensive around here. Well really New ones to, but new are easier to shop the price down. Example: New Yanmar 424 here is 17.5K as their best deal, used around 16K and I was able to shop down the MF 1526 to under 16K (with delivery).
Generally agree with used, but also don’t want to buy someone else problems and my local mechanic would do a Inspection. Though with us being out in the Woods, drive time would become a issue for him going 1 way 1-2 hours or more.

My suggestion is look at models in person sit on and check things out, and if unsure, go back another day because each time you look it allows you to notice other details and facts missed on initial visit. Good luck, enjoy the search, and get what you want first time...been there trading up. Btw, any other brands you are considering or is Massey chosen to simplify process! Post what you eventually decide!

Thanks, other Brands. Well we are open. Just want to have something that will be around in a couple years in case we need a Part, for that reason was looking at the “Bigger” Brands and not the pure China Company’s. Yers I do understand that all are pretty much in some way from the Asia side of the globe.

If you're going to cross the 25hp river, better make it worth it. Buy bigger and buy something you'll enjoy operating (ie, ergonomics and trim level). My suggestion is to look at something in the 30-39hp range and get a "premium" trim level.
Listen to our advice on this matter: buy enough tractor. Buy bigger than you think you need.

Thanks, advise is what we are looking for. So if we make the cup into the Tier 4 Stuff then make it to a nice one. Gotcha.
My wife ain’t liking it, but she never likes to spend anything. Lol


Thank you everyone.

Mike

 

[ID Corgi Ranch]

In my first post I meant to say I got a quote of $33k for a new 1742 with cab...not a 36. Not a great deal on a 36...but darn good on a 42.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

In my first post I meant to say I got a quote of $33k for a new 1742 with cab...not a 36. Not a great deal on a 36...but darn good on a 42.

That is a good quote.

In 2013, I bought my 1643 Hydro open station with FEL for $28,500.00.