Looking to buy a cub or super A

[jeffgreef]

Well, looks like I might get myself a 60th birthday present. There are several Farmalls I see on Craigslist and I'm going to investigate. I have to drive a way to see them, so I really have to look carefully once and make a decision when I am there, no second chance. So I'm looking for advice about how to assess the units on site.

The first is a Cub circa 1950, with PTO and hydraulics. They claim it has and older restoration, engine good, a hydraulic leak, but tires are good and it has a blade, the only implement I want. They say the trans makes a bit of noise, but I think that's fairly typical for these. Price on this $1000.

The second (and third) are a couple of Super As circa early 50s. One claims recent rebuild and no problems, the other says several leaks. $1600 on the one with rebuild but no implements, $2400 on the leaking one, but the leaking one has a blade and box scraper.

The prices are not bad for running tractors. Fixing leaking seals is a job- the seal is cheap but splitting a tractor is not what I want to do.

So anyhow- whatever you can suggest for what to look for when I'm on site looking- thanks.

All I will use it for is to grade 1/2 mile of gravel road. Super A would probably be better for that, but I'd have to pay a hauler, whereas I can tow the cub.

 

[flusher]

I've own both--1948 Cub, 1951 Super A. Paid $900 for the Cub, $1300 for the Super A (along with the mid-mount sicklebar mower and a rear scraper blade). The Super A had been converted from the 2-point hitch to a 3-pt.

The Cub was not running. While pulling the engine, I discovered that part of the support structure (a flange on the lower right front of the block) had been completely cracked through. It was held in place by the timing cover and with all the dirt and grease I couldn't see the crack until I began disassembly. This turns out to be a well-known weakness of the Cub--you can break this flange just by hitting a pothole with the right front wheel. I had to weld that flange back on the block using my stick welder and stainless steel (high nickel) rod.

The Super A was running when I bought it. I sold it before getting around to restoring it.

Good luck.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

There's a BIG difference between a cub and an "A", the cubs have a flat head 10hp motor and the A's have an OHV motor with a LOT more power, depending on the year/model of A, up to about 18hp.

BIGGER deal yet, the cub is a bit under powered and the A isn't, the cub has a 3 speed and the A has a 4 speed...

I could go on and on, but unless you just want a cub, or don't need the power, or don't need the much better speeds of the 4 speed tranny, then get the cub...

ME, I have the A, also a couple BN's and a 140... Same basic tractor, different years and features...

SR

 

[gghb]

For all things cub go to farmallcub .com. The broken ear can include a block crack look at that area closely. With the cub and mid mount grader you can do alot of gradeing but if the road is badly chuckholed it would be best to fix it with something heaver than maintain it with the cub.

Greg

 

[DJ54]

Can't add a lot to what has been said. My vote is for a Super A.

 

[jeffgreef]

Excellent advice about the weak engine flange on Cubs. I'd heard about that but forgot. Don't want to buy a cracked block.

I think I'd prefer the A. One I'm looking at has front blade, rear Gannon, decent tires, but also a leaking hyd. pump and leaking wheel bearing up front. Are these easy fixes? How's $2400 for this unit if it runs well?

Also, do the gears make noise on these transmissions when they are in good shape?

 

[DJ54]

Depends on where they hydraulic pump is leaking. An o-ring, or front seal should fix it, unless the case is cracked. If it's leaking where the hydraulic line manifold attaches, two new o-rings should seal it. If the wheel bearing is leaking out the back, a wheel seal will fix it. Out the front, a gasket under the cap. Just make sure the bearing's aren't shot. Still not an expensive fix if they are.

All of mine have a whine to them. Straight cut gears is probably what you hear.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Do You really want a farmall or do you think it will be the best tractor for fixing your drive? A cub or super A would be low on my list of tractors for drive way work. Ed

 

[jeffgreef]

Well guys I done did it. Bought one. Last Friday I got home from work, found an unexpected check in the mail, then saw a new listing on Craigslist for the tractor I wanted. Saturday morning drove 600 miles to look at it, saw it Sunday morning and got it. When you see something on Craigslist you got to jump on it.

1950 Super A with sickle mower and belly mounted blade. $1500. He replaced clutch, throw out bearing, and radiator not too long ago. Engine starts up with no smoke from cold and the exhaust does not put oil on your fingers. Transmission makes a bit of noise in each gear but that's normal so I hear. One rear tire and one front are good, the other two bad. Calcite in the rears. Got the stock drawbar.

A lot of rust inside the gas tank. Haven't checked the fluids in the trans, hydraulics or differential yet.

There is an alternator on it, but he says it is a 6 volt alternator. I wondered why someone would bother to replace the generator with an alternator and not do a 12v conversion.

He said when he found it, it was sitting in a field where it had been for a while, not very long. Several valves were seized. He did not remove the head, rather he just lubed the valves and tapped them free then got it running. That was 22 years ago, ran very smoothly when I was there yesterday. One thing I tried while it was still cold was to turn the engine over with the crank just to see how much compression I would feel. Not much- it was easy to slowly turn it around without any hard resistance. I think it needs a valve job, or perhaps adjustment. But as I said runs very smooth.

Any pointers on 12v conversion and whatever else would be well appreciated.

Don't need the sickle. Would a trading the sickle for a front mount blade be a fair deal, or is the sickle worth more than a blade?

Ed- main reason I wanted a Farmall was for the belly blade for grading- haven't seen that on other older units.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Understand, if I had more land I would want one for the cultivators. They are great garden tractors. Ed