Looking for used 50-70hp, pre-emissions tractor. JD?

[Tx Jim]

It appears from researching JD parts utilizing part # for main MFWD axle housing that 30 utility models utilized same housing. No MFWD were sold at dealership where I was employed so my knowledge of MFWD tractors is very limited

 

[5030]

Same here with my little L4400. There is little doubt that the loader capacity exceeds the limits of the tractor itself. The sawmill I lifted exceeded the published capacity of the loader and was a good two feet or more in front of the bucket pins. The loader handled the load fine. The tractor did not. As mentioned, more rear ballast would have helped that aspect. The point being, I see no issues with this tractor’s loader capacity at all. If it had significantly more real loader capacity the primary result would be a broken tractor.

...or you'd be arse over teakettle and thankful your ROPS held up and you didn't get crushed under it. One thing I've learned and that is, with no actual suspension to absorb the 'tilt', it don't take a lot to roll it over. Both mine have plenty of lift and curl power and I've never felt it was lacking at all and that applies to all the Kubota's I've owned and I'm on my 10th and 11th Kubota's.

If you want even more 'lift power', it's a simple matter to add shims to the relief valve to up the hydraulic pressure, something I've never found necessary but easily accomplished. Far as I'm concerned, Kubota provides more than adequate capacity with their loaders that are matched to a particular unit. There are many threads on various tractor forums explaining just how to accomplish the increase in working pressure FYI.

 

[5030]

Far as bevel gear finals versus outboard planetary, I've never had an issue with either of my bevel gear drive front axles, My only bone of contention with the Kubota setup is they use ball bearings in the final drives versus rollers but so far (over 6000 hours) on one of mine, it's never been an issue but I do not run hydraulic fluid in the front axles, I run 85-140 Spirax gear oil instead. If you read your owners manual, Kubota states either or. Factory fill is hydraulic fluid (UDT or SUDT) depending on year of manufacture. I've always drained mine immediately and refilled with gear oil. I feel (may be all wet) that gear oil instead of hydraulic fluid imparts a better shock load capability to the front axle and I deal with shock load all the time.

I've heard of bearing failures on the front axles but I have to assume that bearing failures come about from overloading the front axles regularly, something I don't do.

Just had my left front outboard apart to replace the upper and lower kingpin bushings as they were worn to the point where there was perceptible vertical movement in that outboard. Replacement is easy as drifting out the worn bi-metal bushings and replacing them with new parts and I inspected all the drive components in that outboard when I had it apart and nothing appeared to be worn at all.

If you allow the outboards to get excessively sloppy, that will compromise the radial seal between the upper and lower knuckle and it will start leaking oil. If they start leaking, they have to be replaced and that is a fairly involved job in itself. I've also replaced a few tie rod ends in the past but I don't use OEM tie rod ends as the OEM ends aren't greaseable. Aftermarket ends usually are and I feel greasing is the best remedy for accelerated wear.

 

[charles todd]

I have been looking for a larger tractor to replace or go with my Kubota L4400 4wd. The L4400 is 45 hp and is a good machine but it is very light weight. I need something heavier and with substantially more loader capacity. I'm looking for a used pre-emissions tractor with no computer. I'm looking in the 60-70 hp range. My ideal machine is a Kubota M6040 or M7040. Needs to be 4wd. But these are hard to find and as everyone knows these pre-emissions tractors are EXPENSIVE right now. I looked at a M7040 with 1800 hours on it. Beat up. Bent exhaust pipe. One of the front wheels and tires was new which makes me wonder what happened to it. Otherwise it was solid. Drove and functioned well. No obvious leaks etc. $28,500! And searching the web that's consistent with what else is out there. I've made a casual offer of $22,000 but haven't heard back. Can't imagine he'll get anywhere close. But it has been sitting there a while.

So, I need to broaden my horizons. That would primarily mean John Deere or other popular brand with good local dealer support. But I don't know anything about brands other than Kubota. I would prefer a mechanical shuttle shift. Would consider hydraulic shuttle shift. No hydro. What would the JD equivalent of a Kubota M6040 or M7040 be? Any thoughts or recommendations appreciated.

Not a Kubota. I bought a LS P7010C in 2014. 72HP, mechanical shuttle, mechanical direct injection turbo engine w/o any emissions. 750 hours without any major issues. It is heavy and has a very strong loader (+3500lb lift capacity). Filling tires is a requirement to use the loader at full capacity. Paid $37k new.

Tractor Data

Review I wrote on TBN

CT

 

[5030]

Interesting comment about filling tires, something that is popular that I never do.

 

[N80]

Interesting comment about filling tires, something that is popular that I never do.

Critical on a little tractor like mine. Wish I had wheel weights to.

As far as rolling the tractor it was never a risk. Load kept as low as possible, just off the ground. Driveway long but level.

 

[rScotty]

Interesting comment about filling tires, something that is popular that I never do.

Yes, that is an interesting comment that filling the tires is necessary to use his loader.
Maybe that is why some makes are rated higher than Kubota? They expect fluid fill?

Anyway I'm not a fan of filling tires either. I have used wheel weights and may again.

Although the 60 hp Kubota is rated to lift nearly 4000 lbs, I think it is more comfortable with 3000 lbs so that is my personal limit with it. Why stress it? And why stress that marvelous bevel gear front end? It's just too nice.
rScotty

 

[N80]

Filling rears is cheap and easy. Mine came from the dealer filled. I did not know it. When I went to fill them myself I got drenched. Unfortunately I think mine have calcium carbonate ( or whatever it is) in them. I would have opted for something else. But, the tractor is pushing 20 years old and no problems.

 

[N80]

Update: I stopped by and looked at the M7040 again. I crawled up underneath it. Looked at the engine. It looks solid. No leaks. Does not appear to have been split. But it is beat up all over. Mud and rocks where you would not expect them. No maintenance records. They said it was owned by a local fellow. Decals indicate that it was first sold at a dealership in Mississippi. It is in South Carolina now.

Asking $28,500. I asked the owner of the lot (on speakerphone) what his best price was for cash. He did not even know the asking price. I told him and he offered $27,500. I declined of course. I told the guy who was actually there that I’d be interested if he could get closer to $22,000. He immediately countered that they’d take a loss at that price but he also had no idea what the asking price was until I told him what it was listed for on TractorHouse. So I think that was just a pat response.

Anyway, I walked away of course. But on the other hand they know they have a solid if not ugly pre emissions machine and they’re not in a hurry to let it go for less. I’ll check back in a few months.

I am interested in other’s thoughts on a fair price on this unit. $28,500 is fairly consistent with what I’m seeing on the internet but most of those machines look less beat up and/ or have lower hours.

 

[Jstpssng]

Filling rears is cheap and easy. Mine came from the dealer filled. I did not know it. When I went to fill them myself I got drenched. Unfortunately I think mine have calcium carbonate ( or whatever it is) in them. I would have opted for something else. But, the tractor is pushing 20 years old and no problems.

My last tractor was about that age when I started replacing rims, and to the best of my knowledge they were never loaded. I had to have a major hole in one of the rears patched and replaced the two fronts due to rust.