Looking for the best attachment for the job

[louisiana aquaponics]

I have been reading for a few hours but don't seem to find what I'm looking for. Sorry if this is not the right place for this post (NEWBIE). I need to relevel my yard but I have thick grass so I'm looking for the attachment that would work best. Don't wont to spend money on something that wont work if anybody could point me in a good direction I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Need more detail on what you want to do. If your yard is basically flat and you just want to eliminate minor bumps, most people would use a lawn roller or maybe a drag harrow (chain harrow). A roller shouldn't damage your grass at all, and a chain harrow will cause only slight damage unless you're in a drought (which I kinda doubt you are, for Louisiana this month!).

But if your yard is in rougher shape, some sort of landscaping tools (blade, box scraper etc.) might be needed, which of course will destroy or severely damage the grass.

So, maybe describe the exact current condition and what you want to achieve. Photos are good too.

 

[louisiana aquaponics]

the yard drains towards the house so I need to grade the property sloping away from the house so it will drain toward the ditches. from what it look like I'm going to have to remove a good bit of soil so I was looking for a attachment that would cut through the thick grass and soil to level it at the same time if its possible for one tool to do.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I think the grass may have to go first

 

[aerojunkie]

My vote goes to a box blade with scarifiers. Drop them down to tear up the grass and high spots. Then raise them but angle the blade forward to finish grade and get dirt where you want it. Then angle it back to smooth it up and fill in dips and low spots. Here is a thread with a ton of information on using one if you really want to learn what it will do.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html

 

[jeff9366]

You are not seeking to level your yard, you are seeking to un-level your yard.

I can see how this would be a topic of interest in Louisiana and everywhere around the Gulf Coast.


What is the "drop" from the foundation of your house to the lip on drainage ditch on the lowest side?

What is the distance from the foundation of your house to the near lip on the drainage ditch on the lowest side?

Do you have Three Point Hitch components for your T-L-B ?

Site pictures reduce uncertainty of recommendations.


Your MF 1710 has a scant 7" of ground clearance. A Box Blade may or may not engage the ground properly with the geometry of MF 1710 Three Point Hitch. Perhaps someone with your model tractor will comment on Box Blade fit. Or check fit with your MF dealer.

TractorData.com Massey Ferguson GC171 backhoe-loader tractor dimensions information

Consider a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment. You won't have to remove Backhoe to mount the Ratchet Rake. Ratchet Rake will contact ground properly and has a fast learning curve. Ratchet Rake is good at removing sod but sod will be destroyed in the process. On light tractors a Ratchet Rake is only a little slower moving dirt short distances than a Box Blade. I speculate best procedure would be to grade dirt right into the ditches, then scoop out spoil with Backhoe when grading is completed.

Some Tractor Supply stores stock the Ratchet Rake but inventory is intermittent.
You can order a RR drop shipped from the RR factory through the tractorbynet STORE, button at top of this page.

 

[John_Mc]

I've done exactly what you are looking to do with a box blade: drop the scarifiers to tear up the grass - if you get the angle of the blade right, the scarifiers will dig in, and the blade will skim the turf right off the top. Drag that aside, then go back and start dragging the soil. The scarifiers will help loosen up the soil, making it easier to move it. As you approach the finish grade, raise the scarifiers and use the blade alone to smooth things out.

The real key to using a box blade effectively is learning to get the angle set right (by adjusting the top link length). There is no substitute for just getting on and practicing with this. Things go much quicker if you add a hydraulic top link and side link to your 3 Pt hitch. That allows adjusting the top link & side links on the fly, from the seat of your tractor. Adding that is not cheap, if you don't already have two sets of rear remotes. (If you have one rear remote, I'd recommend using it for the top link).

The other big tip for using a box blade is to do it when your soil conditions are right. Too wet, and you just have a sloppy mess. If it's too dry (hard as rock), you may have difficulty skimming off the turf and getting th eblade to dig in properly.

 

[LD1]

Several methods but hard to answer which is best given we don't know just how bad your yard is, and how perfect you want it.

If it's bad, you may want to opt for a skid loader rental with a Harley rake or rock hound and start over.

With established sod, there isnt any good tractor Attachments IMO that work good. The sod won't break up, wants to stay in clumps. Makes it very difficult to get a smooth lawn.

And when you think you have it smooth by scraping the high spots and depositing in the low spots.....wait a year. All that you scraped, being mostly sod, will decompose and that low spot will still be low.

 

[louisiana aquaponics]

Thank all of you for replying. Jeff your are correct un-level is exactly what I need to do so it will drain. My property is 3 acres in a triangle shape and it has a crown sort to speak around the house about half way between the house and the ditches. I was thinking about the piranha tooth bar because I've seen a guy peeling sod up in such good shape that it could be replanted. LD1 I think your right it might be best to strip the sod off and start over.

 

[jeff9366]

Do you have Three Point Hitch components for your T-L-B ?