looking for something super strong for a range

   / looking for something super strong for a range #1  

lamanated

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Sep 8, 2009
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Nova Scotia and Zephyrhills Fl
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BX2360 JD 425 jd 455
thought I;d ask here, the guys in the local club want to make something to hit on the range with the high powered shots, they destroyed the last thing, someone said a ar500 grade steel? plate, I thought a piece from a loader or excavator bucket, might be hard enough to keep from being deformed,
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #2  
From my experience, I would be thinking about something that is replaceable rather than something that is tough. With the higher levels of energy and mass of 44 Magnum, 45/70, etc., I think it is going to be tough to put something out there that doesn't at least deform. And 50 to 100 rounds later, is either really deformed or has a bunch of holes.

So if you make the target itself one piece that bolts or hangs on a stand, then you can just periodically replace it. With a template and a plasma cutter, the targets could be cut out a half a dozen at a time from mild 1/2" plate, and they would not be expensive.

In the past I paid a premium (3x) for a sheet of case hardened 3/8" plate and it lasted a bit longer than 1/2" mild but only about 1/5x as long, and that was probably only because the target was hanging and could swing some when hit.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #3  
I use 3/8" AR400 plate. We've hit it with 44, .308 and plenty of .223. A few M1 Garands had fun with, too.

Steel core (M855 "green tip") will put pock marks in it, and the edges are always going to get a little dinged up. Mine have lasted five or so years and seen many thousands of hits (and quite a few misses - I teach newbies).

If you are looking to put these together yourself, my suggestion is to look at the exact brand of steel. AR is not "armor plate" like a lot of people think, it stands for "Abrasion Resistant". That means there are different steels that are designed for different segments of the abrasion market. You are correct, most AR steels are made for construction equipment.

The big issue welding them is the narrow range some have: you need to preheat between 350 and 380 F for some, and then weld. If you go too high, you blow the tensile strength. Too low and you'll get cracks. Check the manufacturer data sheet, buy a crayon and get it right. I have stick and flux-core MIG'd mild steel brackets to the back. Ours stay out all year, 24/7 hot and cold and in the rain, snow and ice. We shoot them year round. Keep some Krylon on them and they do fine for 3-5 years before a repair.

ThomasH is right: they are consumables. That said, they will last a long time. You don't need to baby them, just fix the eventual weld cracks and carry on. One of the things my guests like to do is check the back of the older steels and see who is developing cracks. There is a contest to see who can make it come apart. Each steel last years on the weld, and I think I've tagged them all this last year. So no more contest winners for a few more years. I am at the point of replacing a few that are chewed up pretty good, though.

I suggest cutting with a plasma torch because it leaves a nicer edge. Grinding abrasion resistant steel is no fun, at all. Get it clean the first time and save the hassle.

As for brackets, I use 1/8" rectangular tubes that fit over a wooden 2x4. To that I attach a 2x1 tube, then just hang them over the wood. No bends and it just uses basic bar and tube stock. It's a great basic welding project. The back of the steel has a little hanger. Easy, peezy, lemon squeezy, as my daughter likes to say. Check the attached drawing I made up. Click them - they should expand.

Another note, plan on the hanger causing the steel to angle down a bit to help deflect rounds to the ground. You do not want to shoot into a parallel plane.

Caveat: this is the internet and I am nobody so everything I say above is so wrong that if you follow it and get hurt, you are a dummy for trusting what I say. Don't come back on me. Guns are icky suck and people who shoot them are just asking to lose an eye, or worse!

Screen Shot 2014-09-11 at 8.35.10 AM.pngScreen Shot 2014-09-11 at 8.30.26 AM.png
 
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   / looking for something super strong for a range #4  
I use AR500 3/8" thick works well up to 300 win mag. No, shooting rifle targets closer than 100 yds and discontinue use on any steel target if it is not flat.

Handgunsports.com has many shapes already cut.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #5  
I use 1/2" ar500 plate and dont' have any problems even with my 30-378. High powered rifles are much harder on targets than handguns from my experience.

One idea I just thought of is using a flywheel. Might be a cheap alternative.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #6  
duplicate
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #7  
No matter what you use, there will always be a gun big enough to mess it up.

Why not start by telling us what you are shooting at it. Everyones definition of "high power" is different.

I second the AR plate for shooting into.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #8  
I use AR500 3/8" thick works well up to 300 win mag. No, shooting rifle targets closer than 100 yds and discontinue use on any steel target if it is not flat.

Handgunsports.com has many shapes already cut.

So I've seen 9mm handgun rounds ding the edge of an AR plate. It's just gonna happen. Rifles can do more damage.

Not sure how "flat" you mean it should be, but you'll go through an awful lot of plate if you replace everything with a mark. Just sayin'.

Plates with craters I keep away from pistols. But at 100 yards, a pock mark even center mass doesn't bother me. YMMV.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #9  
The steel plate we always shoot into we set at a 45 degree angle too. Never really see anyone else do this. But it effectively makes the steel plate on the plane you are shooting thicker, and deflects the bullet into the ground below. Or in our case, a wheelbarrow load of sand.
 
   / looking for something super strong for a range #10  
One idea I just thought of is using a flywheel. Might be a cheap alternative.


I shot at one when I was 13 years old with a 30-06, had I not been wearing glasses I would likely be blinded instantly. Looked like I had bleeding chicken pocks everywhere skin was not covered.

I have shot cast iron exactly once in my life and would strongly suggest that no one do it.
 

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