Looking for rear blade for 1538

[jyoutz]

Kinda small world for my 1538. I bought it as a repo from a dealer in Gallup. It was sold originally by L&R. L&R is 400 miles from me. I haven't been in town for a couple days, but back then diesel was $4.29, probably close to $5 by now.

Thanks for letting me know about your good experience with the Bison 240.

Pretty small world indeed.

 

[jyoutz]

Not a complete fail, but borderline.

Things have been warming up with intermittent cold spells. Yesterday my son and I put together the 3 pt linkages and assembled the Bison blade. I made three passes along the sides of my driveway with some difficulty, but at least I got some time in with the blade.

We mounted the blade with the maximum 12" offset to the right side. I can't use all of the available tilt because my 3 pt can't lift the blade clear of the ground. I don't know how much tilt I have set where I'm just barely dragging the low side of the blade when at max lift. I'm going to try a shorter top link to get some more lift. If I had a taller tractor than my 1538 Mahindra I wouldn't have this problem. Even at max blade offset I still can't reach out as far as I would like.

This Bison has no zerk fittings, so will have to partially take it apart to regrease. The pivot and tilt lock pins are poorly constructed. They welded little cross pins in an attempt to give the operator something to pull on when removing the pins - they don't work worth a da**. Will have to look for pins with real handles.

The Bison NVH -210T is built pretty well - at least it is more than good enough for my Mahindra. In several areas I was grading several inches of material across about 3 feet of blade with no lugging of the engine. In one area of ditch it was soft and I bit off more than the tractor could handle. Pain in the arse getting the tractor out of that situation cause I couldn't lift the blade up far enough. Then in another ditch area I hooked a big rock - stopped the tractor in its tracks - didn't bend anything, just spun the wheels.

After farting around with mechanical adjustments yesterday, I think I need to take another look at Brian's hydraulic kits. Would be nice to have more flexibility in tilt and lift from the seat. I need to first find out how much and how to install a hydraulic remote on the Mahindra.

Gonna go back out and clean up the mess I made yesterday.

Lowell

My Bison blade does have grease zerks. If your lift arms have multiple holes, put the pin in the lower hole to get more lift. Also if your top link has different attachment holes on your tractor, attach it to the center hole for more lift. I haven’t had any problems with the pivot and tilt lock pins. I did have a burr on one of the holes that made the pin hard to install and remove. 5 minutes with a round file fixed that issue.

 

[jyoutz]

Not a complete fail, but borderline.

Things have been warming up with intermittent cold spells. Yesterday my son and I put together the 3 pt linkages and assembled the Bison blade. I made three passes along the sides of my driveway with some difficulty, but at least I got some time in with the blade.

We mounted the blade with the maximum 12" offset to the right side. I can't use all of the available tilt because my 3 pt can't lift the blade clear of the ground. I don't know how much tilt I have set where I'm just barely dragging the low side of the blade when at max lift. I'm going to try a shorter top link to get some more lift. If I had a taller tractor than my 1538 Mahindra I wouldn't have this problem. Even at max blade offset I still can't reach out as far as I would like.

This Bison has no zerk fittings, so will have to partially take it apart to regrease. The pivot and tilt lock pins are poorly constructed. They welded little cross pins in an attempt to give the operator something to pull on when removing the pins - they don't work worth a da**. Will have to look for pins with real handles.

The Bison NVH -210T is built pretty well - at least it is more than good enough for my Mahindra. In several areas I was grading several inches of material across about 3 feet of blade with no lugging of the engine. In one area of ditch it was soft and I bit off more than the tractor could handle. Pain in the arse getting the tractor out of that situation cause I couldn't lift the blade up far enough. Then in another ditch area I hooked a big rock - stopped the tractor in its tracks - didn't bend anything, just spun the wheels.

After farting around with mechanical adjustments yesterday, I think I need to take another look at Brian's hydraulic kits. Would be nice to have more flexibility in tilt and lift from the seat. I need to first find out how much and how to install a hydraulic remote on the Mahindra.

Gonna go back out and clean up the mess I made yesterday.

Lowell

One other thing. The only manual adjustment that was a struggle on my blade was the telescoping link arm with adjustment pin. If the tractor isn’t completely level, the heavy blade will take you for a ride when the pin is pulled. I fixed that by buying a replacement link with a manual ratchet for about $100. Way cheaper than adding hydraulics.

 

[LowellBen]

As I get older, my bulb gets dimmer. Yes, there are other holes in the side links. I went to the middle holes and got more lift. May end up going with the upper hole set. The tractor does have three holes to attach the top link. Not sure switching holes will help much cause when I have the blade pivoted where I want it, the leading edge of the blade is pretty much in line with the 3 pt connections on the plow frame, but I'll try that the next time I have the blade mounted.

I'm thinking I may drill and tap a hole to install zerks in a couple places.

Today, I took along a hammer and drift punch to pop the pins out when they were stubborn. Usually with a bunch of wiggling the pins would come out without too much problem. Still want a bigger hoop on both pins.

Worked the blade another 4 hours today. Pulled a bunch of softball sized rocks out while cutting the ditches. Killed my back getting on and off the tractor and then picking up all the rocks and pitching them off the edge. Eventually, I'll get the ditches cut back to where they need to be, the gravel back on the drive where it should be and everything mostly smoothed out.

Thanks for the input jyoutz.

 

[jyoutz]

As I get older, my bulb gets dimmer. Yes, there are other holes in the side links. I went to the middle holes and got more lift. May end up going with the upper hole set. The tractor does have three holes to attach the top link. Not sure switching holes will help much cause when I have the blade pivoted where I want it, the leading edge of the blade is pretty much in line with the 3 pt connections on the plow frame, but I'll try that the next time I have the blade mounted.

I'm thinking I may drill and tap a hole to install zerks in a couple places.

Today, I took along a hammer and drift punch to pop the pins out when they were stubborn. Usually with a bunch of wiggling the pins would come out without too much problem. Still want a bigger hoop on both pins.

Worked the blade another 4 hours today. Pulled a bunch of softball sized rocks out while cutting the ditches. Killed my back getting on and off the tractor and then picking up all the rocks and pitching them off the edge. Eventually, I'll get the ditches cut back to where they need to be, the gravel back on the drive where it should be and everything mostly smoothed out.

Thanks for the input jyoutz.

You’re welcome.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As I get older, my bulb gets dimmer. Yes, there are other holes in the side links. I went to the middle holes and got more lift. May end up going with the upper hole set. The tractor does have three holes to attach the top link. Not sure switching holes will help much cause when I have the blade pivoted where I want it, the leading edge of the blade is pretty much in line with the 3 pt connections on the plow frame, but I'll try that the next time I have the blade mounted.

I'm thinking I may drill and tap a hole to install zerks in a couple places.

Today, I took along a hammer and drift punch to pop the pins out when they were stubborn. Usually with a bunch of wiggling the pins would come out without too much problem. Still want a bigger hoop on both pins.

Worked the blade another 4 hours today. Pulled a bunch of softball sized rocks out while cutting the ditches. Killed my back getting on and off the tractor and then picking up all the rocks and pitching them off the edge. Eventually, I'll get the ditches cut back to where they need to be, the gravel back on the drive where it should be and everything mostly smoothed out.

Thanks for the input jyoutz.

Putting the top link in the lowest hole will raise the implement end at least 6" when fully raised. The issue is that typically for grading, you want the implement to raise basically level and it will not do that with the top link in the lower holes.

 

[LowellBen]

I've already noticed that problem even with the top link mounted in the upper hole. The blade frame is pitched down when the blade is on the ground. Next time I mount the blade, I'm going to try the upper holes on the side links to see if that will level out the frame when the blade is touching the ground. I just have to spend the time trying out different variations on the linkages to see what may work out better.

Am also considering buying endplates (only need one) cause a lot of material (gravel) rolls off of the end and out of reach.

Thanks for the additional info Brian,
Lowell

 

[jyoutz]

I've already noticed that problem even with the top link mounted in the upper hole. The blade frame is pitched down when the blade is on the ground. Next time I mount the blade, I'm going to try the upper holes on the side links to see if that will level out the frame when the blade is touching the ground. I just have to spend the time trying out different variations on the linkages to see what may work out better.

Am also considering buying endplates (only need one) cause a lot of material (gravel) rolls off of the end and out of reach.

Thanks for the additional info Brian,
Lowell

A little more tilt angle should stop that material roll off issue.