When I built my house a few years ago I used the area under the concrete porch as a bathroom/ shower room. The concrete porch was poured on corrugated sheetmetal that was laid in top of I beams. Now I'm getting some water dripping from the corrugated sheetmetal. (condensation) I want to put a vapor barrier between the cool sheetmatal and the warm air in the bathroom. Because it's corrugated I can not just fasten something to it because there are still air gaps between the ridges. Now I'm thinking of using spray on foam insulation that I saw at Home Depot. This should provide a barrier and also fill the valleys between the ridges. My question is first,, has anyone ever used this product? It's called Froth - Pak Sealant and two,,, can it be used overhead? Will it stick or break loose? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions. RRM
Looking for information on DIY spray foam.
- Thread starter Boxcarman
- Start date
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
No personal experience, but I've been curious about the Froth Pak's and if they are worth the cost for what you get.
The one thing that I think is very important is to make sure you are using Closed Cell Foam. Open Cell will hold moisture and create more problems then it fixes. Open Cell is cheaper and easier to install, but it has a lower R value then Closed Cell. Closed Cell is what's used in floating docks, and it will water proof your metal ceiling.
From what I've seen on YouTube, it sticks to everything!!!!
Instead of Froth Pak's, I think Tiger Foam is cheaper for basically the same thing.
The one thing that I think is very important is to make sure you are using Closed Cell Foam. Open Cell will hold moisture and create more problems then it fixes. Open Cell is cheaper and easier to install, but it has a lower R value then Closed Cell. Closed Cell is what's used in floating docks, and it will water proof your metal ceiling.
From what I've seen on YouTube, it sticks to everything!!!!
Instead of Froth Pak's, I think Tiger Foam is cheaper for basically the same thing.
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I've watched a few YouTube videos on the 2-part, spray-on foam systems for insulation, as well. They have some caveats you need to be aware of. Educate yourself, first.
Agree, you want Closed-Cell foam for your application.
If the area is small enough, you might be able to use the aerosol cans. That stuff sticks to just about everything... Once any type of spray-foam insulation hardens, they can all be cut -- see the videos, as you likely will want to cut it, because it expands, a very great deal, into organic, odd shapes!
I built a 2nd garage, steel sheet metal roof and walls. I used aluminum tape, and aerosol insulation foam cans to seal up the walls, to prevent air seepage, before the contractor installed R-19 fiberglass insulation in the walls. It was a lot of tedious, detailed work, taping and spraying. Went through a number of aerosol cans of spray foam, just to seal the seams and ends, but it got the job done. It also sealed the walls against mice and insects. Never had any mice inside it, during the last two Winter seasons.
Sidebar: the aerosol insulation foam is yellow, until you expose it to sunlight. Then it turns white. I sealed the corrugated sheet metal walls, where they butt against the wooden 6x6's, along the floor of my garage, with the spray foam. It expanded out through the bottoms, where it could be seen, outside, looking at the bases of the walls. After it cured, I cut the really big goobers with a disposable razor knife, to make them less obvious. That foam turned white (a good thing!) within weeks. Cheers!
Agree, you want Closed-Cell foam for your application.
If the area is small enough, you might be able to use the aerosol cans. That stuff sticks to just about everything... Once any type of spray-foam insulation hardens, they can all be cut -- see the videos, as you likely will want to cut it, because it expands, a very great deal, into organic, odd shapes!
I built a 2nd garage, steel sheet metal roof and walls. I used aluminum tape, and aerosol insulation foam cans to seal up the walls, to prevent air seepage, before the contractor installed R-19 fiberglass insulation in the walls. It was a lot of tedious, detailed work, taping and spraying. Went through a number of aerosol cans of spray foam, just to seal the seams and ends, but it got the job done. It also sealed the walls against mice and insects. Never had any mice inside it, during the last two Winter seasons.
Sidebar: the aerosol insulation foam is yellow, until you expose it to sunlight. Then it turns white. I sealed the corrugated sheet metal walls, where they butt against the wooden 6x6's, along the floor of my garage, with the spray foam. It expanded out through the bottoms, where it could be seen, outside, looking at the bases of the walls. After it cured, I cut the really big goobers with a disposable razor knife, to make them less obvious. That foam turned white (a good thing!) within weeks. Cheers!
HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
I DIY'd the spray foam in my container living space. Messy, but pretty easy to do. It is rather temperature dependent so get it done before it get too cold.
Snobdds
Elite Member
I've used it on the underside of my floor at my cabin. I built it about 4 feet off the ground due to snow loads up there, so I had to lay on my back and spray upwards.
First, it was the messiest job I've ever done in my life. I had the full Tyvek suit, mask, hood, etc. I still got the stuff all over me. If you've never used it before, that stuff does not wash off, even with acetone. I quickly figured out you do not fully depress the trigger on the gun when spraying overhead. You only want to depress halfway to not have that stuff blow back to you.
It did work. I used the tiger foam closed cell stuff, which is basically the same stuff. In order for foam to work right, it needs to have the proper thickness to overcome the thermal transfer or dew point of one material to the other. Basically you need about 3-4 inches to do this.
The great thing about closed cell foam is it's: A thermal break, insulation, vapor barrier, and it's ability to glue everything together. The floor in my cabin never gets cold and it's so solid now as the entire floor is now glued together. I like the stuff. It's expensive and messy, but it works for certain situations where other forms of insulation are not ideal.
First, it was the messiest job I've ever done in my life. I had the full Tyvek suit, mask, hood, etc. I still got the stuff all over me. If you've never used it before, that stuff does not wash off, even with acetone. I quickly figured out you do not fully depress the trigger on the gun when spraying overhead. You only want to depress halfway to not have that stuff blow back to you.
It did work. I used the tiger foam closed cell stuff, which is basically the same stuff. In order for foam to work right, it needs to have the proper thickness to overcome the thermal transfer or dew point of one material to the other. Basically you need about 3-4 inches to do this.
The great thing about closed cell foam is it's: A thermal break, insulation, vapor barrier, and it's ability to glue everything together. The floor in my cabin never gets cold and it's so solid now as the entire floor is now glued together. I like the stuff. It's expensive and messy, but it works for certain situations where other forms of insulation are not ideal.
HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
Yeah, it is definitely not the cheapest way but sometimes it is the best way so you just have to bite the bullet.
Wear a Tyvek suit, rubber gloves, a respirator and a full face shield with peel away visor protectors. The stuff is messy and hard to control coating thickness. Spraying overhead is the worst. The best way to imagine these kits is to fill your bathtub with bubble bath foam - then stand in the tub and try and coat your ceiling with the stuff.
I've done it once, I will never do it again. Hire a pro outfit to come and spray for you. They use pressurized and heated spray equipment.
Thank me later.
I've done it once, I will never do it again. Hire a pro outfit to come and spray for you. They use pressurized and heated spray equipment.
Thank me later.
Last edited:
duffer
Platinum Member
Ditto on the closed cell foam.
I spray foamed the inside of a Transit van conversion. Found a kit on Amazon with 12 cans, the gun, cleaner, and all the protective gear. It's not as messy as the "2 propane tank" apparatus, but still need the PPE.
Also, Closed cell does not expand nearly as much as open cell expands in application. And if you use the aerosol cans like I did, the expansion is almost 0. So...you're better off spraying light coats and go over it 2-3 times, than one heavy coat. And the instructions on the cans I used said to mist the surface with water before application for better adhesion. Boy were they right !
I spray foamed the inside of a Transit van conversion. Found a kit on Amazon with 12 cans, the gun, cleaner, and all the protective gear. It's not as messy as the "2 propane tank" apparatus, but still need the PPE.
Also, Closed cell does not expand nearly as much as open cell expands in application. And if you use the aerosol cans like I did, the expansion is almost 0. So...you're better off spraying light coats and go over it 2-3 times, than one heavy coat. And the instructions on the cans I used said to mist the surface with water before application for better adhesion. Boy were they right !
dstig1
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Yes they are good for small areas, which it sounds like you have. Very messy as noted. Also the substrate is going to need to be dry before application to ensure it sticks. If you are getting condensation, you will need to dry it out somehow. Temperature is also important as too cool won't sure properly. That might be an issue on the cold steel/concrete.
caver
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I was interested in foam except for the cost then I saw this video. Get someone who's maybe not as good or using bad products.