Box Scraper Looking for advice on a 6' box blade

[SSweetland]

I had bought a box blade when I was uninformed a few years ago from an auction house. Turned out to be a bad choice of blades. The one I bought was not intended for rippers, but they had cut ripper holes in one bar and added a new piece of square tubing behind it, but did not include any rippers anyway.
I had bought a set of rippers, and went to put them in, and found that they were about 1/2" too small, so never messed with it any more.
While grading my road, and putting a crown on it, I noticed now I have a twist in the blade and it has broken my top link a couple of times (second time breaking was when I noticed the twist)

Been shopping around for a decent heavier duty blade, noticing the pin thru or pins pointing out (already decided not to go with the pins sticking out). The blades at TSC are all lighter duty, already noticed that, so they have been taken off my list.

Any recommendations on a good box blade that won't kill my budget? Seen the Titan brand, and seem good, but not wanting to buy another discount item that will end up wasting my money, or am I expecting too much from a blade?

 

[ruffdog]

Is this how your ripper bar is made?

Box Blade Heavy Duty 3pt. Hitch - United 566 - farm & garden - by...

 

[jeff9366]

Every implement manufacturer produces Box Blades, often in several weight increments.

If you divide total Box Blade weight by operating width in feet, you will know WEIGHT PER UNIT OF WIDTH.

80 pounds per foot of width is pretty good. 120 pounds per foot of width is the berries. Unfortunately, we have to pay for every pound.

Box Blade is the most common implement purchased for secondary use as Three Point Hitch counterbalance to Loader lifts.

Buy enough weight.

 

[SSweetland]

No, it looks like this

Facebook Marketplace: 3 point box blade - Miscellaneous Tools - Sanger, Texas in fact this is actually my ad

 

[CADplans]

These box blades are usually horsepower rated,, I did not know that when I bought mine,,

Buy a 60HP rated box for your tractor,, IMHO,,,

 

[fried1765]

I had bought a box blade when I was uninformed a few years ago from an auction house. Turned out to be a bad choice of blades. The one I bought was not intended for rippers, but they had cut ripper holes in one bar and added a new piece of square tubing behind it, but did not include any rippers anyway.
I had bought a set of rippers, and went to put them in, and found that they were about 1/2" too small, so never messed with it any more.
While grading my road, and putting a crown on it, I noticed now I have a twist in the blade and it has broken my top link a couple of times (second time breaking was when I noticed the twist)

Been shopping around for a decent heavier duty blade, noticing the pin thru or pins pointing out (already decided not to go with the pins sticking out). The blades at TSC are all lighter duty, already noticed that, so they have been taken off my list.

Any recommendations on a good box blade that won't kill my budget? Seen the Titan brand, and seem good, but not wanting to buy another discount item that will end up wasting my money, or am I expecting too much from a blade?

As long as you buy a solidly built box blade, you can make it as heavy as you like, by adding weight.
I have lots of free scrap lead.

 

[SSweetland]

I had looked at a 7', but my concern is more dealing with the width on my farm. I feel the 6 is a bit more easily managed in tight spots (just takes another swipe) but still not counting the 7 out. Mostly looking for opinions on what is good, what is not.
I have noticed that the units with the pins that stick out, all seem to give way after a while, and the pin thru units are far more solid (no idea what either is truly called and have asked at dealers and so on)

I know the pin thru units are actually more adapted for use with a quick hitch (don't have that yet) but are far stronger by design

These box blades are usually horsepower rated,, I did not know that when I bought mine,,

Buy a 60HP rated box for your tractor,, IMHO,,,

 

[SSweetland]

Mostly referring to the ability to deal with twisting and such rather than simply the weight of it (although that does help cut more)
The blade on mine is not the correct blade for it, had to modify it by burning new bolt holes so the blade would be up far enough.

Again, mostly my ignorance when buying the one I got. Single blade, one direction, and was the wrong blade put in it from the start

As long as you buy a solidly built box blade, you can make it as heavy as you like, by adding weight.
I have lots of free scrap lead.

 

[Fallon]

I had looked at a 7', but my concern is more dealing with the width on my farm. I feel the 6 is a bit more easily managed in tight spots (just takes another swipe) but still not counting the 7 out. Mostly looking for opinions on what is good, what is not.
I have noticed that the units with the pins that stick out, all seem to give way after a while, and the pin thru units are far more solid (no idea what either is truly called and have asked at dealers and so on)

I know the pin thru units are actually more adapted for use with a quick hitch (don't have that yet) but are far stronger by design

The pin supported on each end is called a clevis. An as you noticed is WAY stronger than just a pin supported on 1 end. Clevis mounts are a must for a beefy impliment subject to a lot of force like a box blade. A box blade not using a clevis mount is an indication of a flimsy impliment. The leverage on a pin without support on both ends will bed things relatively quickly with use.

The pin setup holds up fine for stuff like a tiller, cement mixer, or even many mowers. But they dont get the force on the 3pt connection a box blade does.

 

[SSweetland]

THANK YOU!!!!! WooHoo! I have an answer I can highly relate to on the pins LOL

The pin supported on each end is called a clevis. An as you noticed is WAY stronger than just a pin supported on 1 end. Clevis mounts are a must for a beefy impliment subject to a lot of force like a box blade. A box blade not using a clevis mount is an indication of a flimsy impliment. The leverage on a pin without support on both ends will bed things relatively quickly with use.

The pin setup holds up fine for stuff like a tiller, cement mixer, or even many mowers. But they dont get the force on the 3pt connection a box blade does.