Looking for a little help

[jsavarese]

All,
I've been following this discussion group for quite a while now, while waiting for my JM284 crate to arrive. Well it finally did, over a month ago after a very long wait (picked it up on 8 Feb), but between the weather, family emergencies and work, I haven't even completed the tractor build yet or attempted to start it for the first time. I finally got this weekend free and the weather is actually supposed to be nice for a welcome change, so I was hoping to complete the tractor. The FEL and BH will have to remain in their crates for a while longer . . .
The assistance I'm looking for:
1) Can someone give me the length of the engine oil dipstick, from the flat bottom of the upper rubber flange (that seals it to the tube) to the end? I checked the crancase oil and didn't have an oil indication on the stick. I changed out the Chinese oil replacing it with the same amount of drained out oil - - - about 5 quarts. Then I got to looking at the dipstick up close and it looks like the side of the rod close to the end has been beaten with a hammer (not perfectly flat, but kind of peened and faceted). At first I thought this might be the way the Chinese created the "MIN-MAX" mark. But before I added anymore oil, I looked at the very end of the rod and it looks like it was snapped off as opposed to cleanly manufactured, which causes me to think (1) the dipstick has broken off and there is still a part of it in the engine (now it's too short to indicate the oil level); and (2) it is being contacted by a moving engine part (probably one of the crank's counterbalance weights) causing the beaten or peened look on the side of the rod. So what I'm asking is:
(1) Length of the dipstick on the Y385, three cylinder engine from the bottom of the rubber sealing flange at the top, to the end. What I have now from those two points is 8 1/4 inches.
(2) Oil capacity of the crankcase (so I can possibly try to start this thing this weekend, before I can get a new dipstick - - - by knowing for sure how much oil I've put in there.
(3) If it has been broken off as I believe it has, is it safe to assume that the broken part has fallen to the bottom of the pan out of the way, and that it will not cause or create problems with the engine - - - or should I just figure on having to drain out all my new oil, dropping the pan, retrieving the dipstick part, etc., before I attempt the first start?
(4) Any suggestions on how to reconfigure the dipstick attitude to eliminate the obvious contact that is occurring in the engine. I don't know how long these engines are test run at the engine or tractor factories, but I'm guessing it isn't that long. And if my dipstick looks like this after that minimum runtime, I can't expect a new one to last unless I somehow change the attitude that it penetrates down into the crankcase.

That's the major issue for me at the moment. I'm still trying to get all the wiring connected and working (I've got Ammeter and water temp guages but no tach, oil or fuel guage movement with the key turned to on), I've got right and left turn signals, headlights and rear worklight, but no four ways - - - with all good fuses, checked on a V/Ohm meter), a battery that won't hold a charge, and a few other items to take up my time this weekend.

So if there is anyone lurking here instead of out playing on their tractors, I sure would appreciate any assistance you could provide. Thanks a million in advance . . .
Jim

 

[SPIKER]

JIM:

sorry I'm away from my tractor but the lenght you stated souinds close, but then the max/min marks are what i would describe as small cut marks made using a hammer & chisel to create a crease in the last 1" or so of the end. my dip stick is pretty near vertical comming off the block maybe 1~1.5" out farther at top than it is at the bottom.

as for the tach it usually will not move untill it regesters the tach sensor trigger movement. the fuel gauge is nototius for not having a good ground. I ussed soem 16 gauge green wire I had and attached it to the fuel sending unit and to the steering colume ground as passed it then over to the engine ground bar. all these little things were pointers I picked up along the way from others. I assembled mine and one other the 2nd one too about 8 hrs start to finish and the first was only about 12 hrs.

make sure the battery connections are clean both on the frame and on the starter sol. make sure there is no loose connections or paint under them.. for first setting up a battery you HAVE to fill it with acid, put it on a GOOD charger booster for 5+ min untill acid starts to boil, then drop it to a 20+ amp charge untill it starts to drop to say a low amp charg then put it on trickle for 24 hrs. this BURN IN will set a good battery memory type thing for the batery.

I'll try and remember to get a lenght for you if I get out to the farm this weekend hopefully someone will have the tractor close to help out sooner.

MarkM

 

[jsavarese]

Thanks Spiker. . . for the quick response

I didn't measure the block offset of my dipstick but I will when I go back out, to see if the top of mine is away from the block about the same distance as you described. I'm hoping that I'll be able to mayby bend the tube in closer to the block at the top, to get the dipstick away from whatever it's contacting in there. If that doesn't work, I'm open to suggestions from anyone as to how I might be able to reconfigure the dipstick penetration attitude to clear the moving engine part that it's contacting. Any thoughts about starting it for the first time, with the possibility of a length of the dipstick rod still in there? The last thing I want to do is cause major engine damage BEFORE I even get the thing together and get a chance to play on it!

I'm out there now, trying to figure out the wiring. I've made sure there's good contact on both main battery cable ends, so I know that's good. Fuses are good and I am getting power up behind the dash when the key is on, and I've tested for good grounds. So now I'm going from wire to wire and checking for breaks, etc. I'm sure I'll figure it all out eventually. One can only hope!

As for the battery, it came with a full load of electrolyte already in it. Surprise. Surprise! I was expecting it to come dry, as I've been told and have been reading. So I've got a gallon box of acid to dispose of now. Anyway, I did charge it up as you mentioned, with the initial "jolt" for a few minutes and then an extended lower charge rate. I even left it on 3 AMP trickle charge for an extended time. Since then, I've charged it several times and leaving it overnight, not connected to the tractor (to insure there isn't a constant drain on it from a possible wiring problem in the tractor), it drops down to less than 10 volts. So fresh from the factory, I was lucky enough to get a bad battery. I guess that's not a big deal though, as I was expecting to have to replace it soon after I started using the tractor, based on everything I've read about them not being that good to start with. Not just this soon though!

The tach, fresh out of its wrapping, indicated about 1K RPMs, and the needle hasn't moved at all since installation, even with the key turned on. Maybe I'll just have to wait on this one, until I actually start the thing, to see if it's working or not.

Okay Spiker. Time to get back out there and try to figure these things out. Thanks again for the quick response.

Jim

 

[Scozz]

Maybe the battery was filled with water not electrolyte?
Might be worth dumping and adding yours to see if it works...Scozz

 

[JINMA224XR]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Maybe the battery was filled with water not electrolyte?
Might be worth dumping and adding yours to see if it works...Scozz )</font>

Hey Scozz,

You read my mind, that was the same thing that I was thinking, but was too afraid to say. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Hey Jim,

I think that you may be able to purchase one of the little batter acid testers to test for the sulfuric acid.

Don't throw that battery acid away, until you do.

They may have put a low acid/water mixture in it to just do the initial yard test, but forgot to take it out, Maybe,, just a guess though.

I haven't measured the dip stick on my little y380t engine yet, but your dipstick, may have gotten damaged before they put it in the engine, somehow, maybe a forklift tire ran over it or something like that. The little measureing marks aren't much at all, and it wouldn't take much abrasion, to make them not visible. It looks like they just use a hammer and chisel to make the 2 marks, but again, it's just a guess.

Don't get discouraged, with assembleing your new tractor. I know that you are worried with the little problems that have arisen, but just take your time and try not to make a simple mistake. When you are finished, you will know more about your tractor than the ones of us that got ours preassembled. Be sure to check that lubrication is getting into the creeper gear housing. That would be one of the simple mistakes, that I made.

Good Luck &
Have a nice day,
Joe

 

[jsavarese]

Scozz,

I figured the same thing when I went back out there - - - couldn't hurt anything to at least try it. I emptied out the battery and refilled it with the electrolyte I had (brand new, unopened package). Put it on fast (high) charge for about 10 minutes and got it cooking real good, then turned it down to 10 AMPS and let it go for about another hour - hour and a half. I checked the battery with the V/Ohm meter right after I took it off the charger and it read 12.8 volts. It's been off the charger (and disconnected from everything) for about an hour now, and I just checked it again. It's already down to 11.7 volts. It was certainly worth a try though . . .

I slowly dumped two boxes of baking soda into the pan with the liquid that came out of the battery (just to be safe) and it reacted as it should have. So I'm pretty sure the right stuff was in it to start with. Now I have to go clean up my mess and find a place to properly dispose of the leftovers!

Still fishing around with the wiring. No success so far. I did notice that my tail lights are both on with the igition key in the on position (I didn't notice this before), with all of the rocker switches on the dash OFF, including the headlights. Is this a normal wiring configuration for these tractors, like the headlight on a motorcycle?

Still no emergency flashers, fuel or oil pressure guage movement. I thought I'd found the problem - - - a bad ground in one of the wire bundles going to those two gauges, but even when I added a known, good ground to the modular connector, I still didn't get anything. Still nothing on the tach either, but I still haven't tried to start it yet. Still not sure about the possible piece of the dipstick down there somewhere.

Oh well. I'm never going to get this thing figured out sitting here in front of the computer. Gotta get out there and take advantage of the good weather and my free time (while I have both for a welcome change)!

Jim

 

[jsavarese]

JINMA224XR,

No discouragement here. Just impatience. I'm frustrated looking out the window and seeing this thing in its unfinished condition. I want to get out there and play with it! Plus, I still have the FEL and BH sitting there in the crates! I need to get this thing figured out so I can get out there and dig some holes and move some dirt! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jim

 

[bruce1966us]

The oil pressure guage will not move unless the engine has been turned over enough to create readable pressure. Same with the fuel guage if you have little or no fuel. Your tail lights are probably staying on because the brake light switch (under left floor rail) is misadjusted (very common).

 

[jsavarese]

Update:

Got everything (electrical) working today, including all gauges and the rear lights too. No adjustment required, bruce 1966us, but thanks for the tip anyway. Like I previously said, I didn't notice that they were on before, with the key in the on position. That’s because they weren’t. Turned out that a friend who was looking/helping several days ago, locked the brake lever down without me knowing it, so I was seeing the brake lights yesterday and didn't know it. That just tells me it's time to accomplish the modification I've read about on John’s website (I believe that's where I read it), installing the brake light indicator on the dash.

Still haven't heard anything from anyone about the dipstick length. I went ahead and took the chance today and fired her up, figuring that if there's still a piece of the dipstick in there, it had fallen to the bottom of the pan and wouldn't cause any damage. I don't think it took 10 seconds and she was running! I wouldn't think anyone could complain about that, seeing the tractor was manufactured in November and hadn't been started in 4+ months! So either there isn't a piece in there or it is well out of the way, because it seemed to run just fine. I still would like to know if my dipstick needs replacing though. So if there is anyone out there with the Y385 engine that wouldn't mind measuring theirs, I sure would appreciate it. I definitely would like to be able to check my oil level with some assurance it's correct. As it stands now, I get no mark on the stick, with 5 quarts of fresh oil (put back exactly what I drained out).

Spiker - - - I measured the distance from the block to the top of the dipstick tube and mine was about three inches. So I carefully bent it in toward the block at the bottom, where it’s connected to the block, with the dipstick in the tube, and got it as close as about two inches. The loop at the top of the dipstick is now in contact with the intake, preventing any further movement toward the block than that. Hopefully that will be enough to stop any internal contact with moving engine parts.

Now it’s on to the FEL and BH. Maybe sometime this week or next weekend!
Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement so far. . . . and please don’t forget about that measurement . . . . Thanks again.
Jim

 

[greg_g]

Y385 crankcase holds 6 liters of engine oil

//greg//